Quote:
Originally Posted by Built My Way
Wow! Much of what you said just doesn’t make sense. Contaminants will not factor in as long as there is a tight seal. If contaminant build up is an issue here, it’s only because an under designed (loose fitting) grommet has allowed that kind of environment to exist. Your quick fix solution by applying grease or RTV sealant defeats your own argument. For this application, these products should not have to be used if the seal is tight. I’ve never had to do this on any of my other my other vehicles that I’ve owned through the years. Your suggestion of using these products is an admission that there is a problem with the rubber grommet. You also mentioned brake booster surface finish. The hard brake issue on these vehicles appears later on during ownership. A poor factory finish would have caused this problem to occur much sooner. You stated something about a 30% seal compression without any supporting data and then promptly used this to shoot down my argument. Not very compelling I have to say. Your compression figure is irrelevant especially if you haven’t taken sample measurements of any kind. The Test portion of the DIY performed on my vehicle proves that the slightest displacement of the grommet can break the vacuum within the housing. Unless the area of concern is remedied by a properly sized grommet being compressed by the barbed check valve forming a proper seal between its “radial” groove and the opening in the brake boost housing, this problem will continue to exist. I contend that the circumferential tolerance of the groove is just under which is minimally acceptable which is why only a few vehicles have experienced the leakage. Temperature variations over time, vibration and grommet shrinkage are more likely the factors which aid in initiating the problem, not contaminants or booster surface condition.
Again I have to call you out on your comments about leaks in other parts of the system that rely on a vacuum and how they can affect brake booster vacuum. Your arguments on this are basic nonsense. The check valve at the brake booster is designed to hold the 28hg no matter what happens in the event of vacuum loss in other parts of the system of lines otherwise the entire braking system would be compromised in the event of a catastrophic engine malfunction. A proper check valve (with proper rubber grommet) will continue to maintain the vacuum in the booster even with atmospheric pressure at sea level in the vacuum system lines.
I can’t imagine why someone would try to blame waste gate rattle for brake vacuum loss. IDK, maybe there’s some cryptic details that I’m missing in here.
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It is fairly obvious you have something to defend and your point of view is an attack based on ego. The comments I made are based on 20+ years as a professional mechanical engineer. I am not going to debate what I said as this would be like a two year old saying the sky is red and I saying it is blue. In short, your basic understating of material sciences is non existent and would go as far as saying internet folklore from what you’re saying. For reference, you can look up “vacuum seal design” and use the Parker site as reference as it has all the information and charts one would need. As for the other comment, I am not sure what to say other than you’re not smart enough to understand a basic mechanical system. If you actually had a specific question I certainly would have answered it but you don’t.
The information you provided is useful and appreciated but it has been expanded on as well. People can have the free will to choose what they want to proceed with. There is information that will work everyone. You need to grow up and learn that other points of view are okay and as whole as they will help people with this problem. The point of the thread is to help others or do you have your head to far up your ass to see this.
Feel free to write more comments as it is your choice but not going to respond. I understand why I no longer post here anymore LOL.