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      01-10-2016, 12:54 PM   #15
hassmaschine
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Drives: "NBO" 330i
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: earth

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Droze View Post
You should have bought a N54 motor!

Okay, okay, someone was bound to say it sooner or later, now that it is out of the way. . . I am officially subscribed.
lol. you won't be the last, I'm sure - but to be honest, if I wanted a motor that was as heavy as an N54, I would just go with my original S54 plan. If I wanted a turbo, it would be far easier and cheaper to turbo the M20 that's in it.. and it's lighter, too!

Anyway, no plans on a SC, I'm on the fence whether that is really a good idea long term or not. The pistons are certainly not made for boost. Everyone always talks about the block, but the block isn't the issue in my mind. the rods are significantly lighter than N54 rods too - even the bolts are smaller!

No 3 stage IM either - I'm going to 3D print a flange and use open trumpets. A 3 stage would be nice for smooth driving, but it won't support the power I want. This car has short gearing (4.10s and no overdrive), so I need something that will rev. also, the 3 stage will almost certainly not clear the brake booster, but the trumpets should. That actually saves me some money on an expensive manual pedal/MC setup. Eventually I want to vacuum form a plenum so I can run a panel filter. Or if I win the lottery, adapt a CSL airbox..

The goal is 8,000rpm and around 300bhp, with an engine that is lighter than the M20 it's replacing. I haven't even torn down the engine yet, the condition of the bores will sort of determine how far I take it. Original plan was to use stock pistons and rods, now I'm not too sure.

Talking to a buddy of mine in Florida who has a flowbench to see if he can test the N52 head and see what improvements can be made. The ports are CNC'd but they look to me like a little cleanup would go a long way.

First thing I want to do is run a compression test, the second thing is to see how much piston/valve clearance there is at TDC - to see if retarding the stock intake cam 5-10 degrees is a valid idea.
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