Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparkee
If I understand what you are saying, you have it backwards. The nut turns to loosen and the T40 (which goes into the ball joint) does not. The ball joints have a tapered fitting that goes up into the seat that helps hold it securely in place and ensure its alignment. But, that taper is otherwise smooth and will allow the joint to spin in the seat sometimes. Hence, the T40 is there to help you keep it from spinning.
We used an impact wrench which worked for most of them. Saves gobs of time.
Since I replied after your post, I should have answered this before. Sorry.
For the rest of my story, I had the car aligned today and now it feels great. We actually had it pretty close using a tape measure, but were off by a couple of tenth degrees.
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I installed mine today. I tried to go without an impact at first, but after several attempts at the first ball joint I decided to go to harbor freight...I would say that an impact is a necessity for this job. I got a 20V battery impact with 450 ft-lbs of torque and it was just enough for this job...so i wouldn’t go any smaller if you buy one like I did...
Also as far as the install want...I didn’t have to drop the steering rack, loosen the alignment pins, or jack up the suspension. I did have to shave the control arms ever so slightly...I used a dremel for most of it and finished it with a file to get it level. I would say the dremel is about as critical as the impact.
You can do this job without either of these tools but it’s going to take a lot longer and require a lot more patience...
UPDATE: I got my alignment done today and what a difference that made. Idk if I’m as impressed with the handling as most of the other posters seem to be. There is most def more NVH coming through from the front suspension, but I don’t think that the handling is much different...although I haven’t driven the car hard yet.