Quote:
Originally Posted by Staticpulse18
...The car burned out 4 starters so far [please explain what you mean by that -- WHAT exactly was wrong with any starter you replaced & was it damaged by improper attempts to start car with jumpers?]...It seems to only recharge the battery for startup only, so I'm not able to turn on anything because then there won't be enough juice for it to start. [Sorry, your charging system does NOT work that way -- your CONCEPT of how the charging system works needs improvement. Suggest reading the attached] Tested battery ok [WHAT did you test it with? What was the Voltage?]
Car will not start (everything lights up but starter won't crank) [THAT is what the A0B4 CAS code confirms] if I unlock the car with the handle sensor, [;] I have to unlock the car with the key and it turns on no problem. [So if you use Remote Key to Unlock the vehicle, the CAS will NOT send signal to the Starter Motor; BUT, if you unlock with the mechanical key (or don't lock car I presume) the START button activates Starter via CAS Module as it should?]
Official Carly Diagnostics Report [you can forget virtually everything Carly tells you with its "Faux Data" -- Carly "buried the lead" 'cuz the CAS module is NOT a simple "Immobilizer" and it is NOT fault-free as your summary suggests. The CAS Module is responsible for unlocking the car, activating other systems, and providing the START signal to the Starter Motor. The A0B4 Fault (A0B4 | CAS: Engine start, starter operation) tells you what is happening. What it does NOT tell you is WHY the CAS is NOT sending a Start Signal to the Starter when START button is pressed -- when you have used the REMOTE to UNLOCK.]
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I don't mean to be harsh with you -- it's NOT your fault that CARLY gives so MUCH BS, and apparently so LITTLE Instruction on how to use the Tool and proper diagnostic concepts. I haven't seen ANYONE post on any forum who seems to understand the "Faux Data" that Carly provides. It WILL at least give you the Fault Codes if you know how to wade through all the BS.
However, you have to understand what each Module does, what it controls, and its circuit diagram (power supply, Inputs & Outputs) to understand the True Importance (or irrelevance) of a particular fault in a particular Module.
Does your vehicle have any security system of any type, either factory-installed, or aftermarket? I am NOT familiar with any such system, but it appears that when you lock the vehicle, thereby activating the security system which includes a Start Signal immobilizer (disables CAS Start signal to Starter), CAS is NOT "Enabled" when you unlock vehicle with Remote, but it IS Enabled when you unlock with mechanical key (rotate driver door lock cylinder).
Does everything else in the vehicle operate normally when you unlock with Remote Key and enter? Does the Radio come on when you insert Key in Insert Compartment? Do the Windows operate? Does the Instrument Cluster light up when you press START button without foot on Brake?
Here is the CAS circuit for your 2006 330xi. Note the Starter Motor Solenoid (M6510a) gets a signal from the CAS to activate the Starter via Pin #22 of the CAS Connector X13376. Note also that the Steering Lock, M137a, ALSO is controlled by the CAS (does your steering remain locked when START button does NOT activate Starter?):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/r14Nexa
So even though Carly is giving a "Bogus" Voltage readout, your battery and charging system are probably fine, but your CAS Module is NOT Activating the Starter Solenoid after locking/unlocking using the Remote Key. Test that theory by doing the following:
0) You should probably Lower your Driver Window to do this test, as if the Central Locking System does NOT work properly, you may need to use the mechanical key from outside to unlock driver door.
A) Start Vehicle (after entering WITHOUT using Remote to unlock) & then shutdown engine and restart. Does THAT work OK?
B) After successful restart when NO locking of vehicle, Test Central Locking System effect on Start circuit by: lock all doors using Central Locking Button on Dash. Unlock by using that button again, and try to START. Does THAT work OK?
C) Test use of Remote Key to Lock/Unlock: remaining seated in vehicle, use Remote Key to Lock, and then to UNLOCK the doors. Try START. WHAT happens?
I'm NOT absolutely claiming that any of the above is actually what is happening with your vehicle, but that is the most likely explanation I can think of upon facts provided so far. Please do the tests suggested above & let us know the results.
BTW, have YOU ever used Carly before on that vehicle? Do you know how to read the mileage/km when a particular fault code was saved? INPA & ISTA will give that mileage data and also tell you if a particular fault is "Currently Present" or not. That information is essential to wading through 20+ fault codes.
My suggestion is to record the fault information NOW displayed by Carly, and then CLEAR all codes and start fresh. NEXT time you read codes, get ALL Freeze Frame Data and Details related to any Code and post here. If Carly CANNOT either do that, or provide documentation that explains HOW to do that, then let us know if you have a Windows Laptop, Android, iPhone, etc. and someone can suggest a Diagnostic Tool/ Software (such as INPA or ISTA) that will actually give useful and intelligible information.
BTW2, there is MORE to Diagnostics than Fault Codes. INPA or ISTA will allow you to read Live Data showing voltage at the various "Terminals" which will show you if Terminal 30G is activated (powering many systems); if Terminal 15 (Ignition) is activated when pressing START button; and if Terminal 50 (CAS Starter Activation Function) is active when pressing START with foot on Brake.
Challenging issue, please let us know what you find,
George