Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop
Sounds like a temperature-related ELECTRICAL issue rather than mechanical issue (NOT frozen water/ice, or even sticking regulator. If it were a "frozen water" issue, sitting overnight in <0C temps would cause the problem, but you say it doesn't occur unless temp is <-8C, so there seems to be something "electrically-magic" about -8C.  Got a power inverter (12VDC to 115V AC), and a heatgun? Try using that to heat up the Switch Cluster (without frying the uphostery/trim ;-).
During your ownership, have you noticed any other intermittent issues with the Driver Door Switch Cluster?
I assume you have tried to open the window AFTER starting the engine and the switch cluster button still doesn't do anything even when system voltage is ~ 14.5V rather than the ~12.5V without engine/alternator running?
Try operating each exterior mirror from the Driver Switch Cluster, both when the driver window is OK, and when it is not. What results?
I'm NOT familiar with the coupe cluster controls; Does the Driver Door Switch Cluster control anything OTHER than the front windows and mirrors? If so, try same drill as mirrors described above. Keep in mind that this Cluster is using the LIN-BUS to send signals to the FRM to control the windows & mirrors, so any communication error in the LIN-BUS would cause the intermittent problem you describe. INPA would probably show some type of communication Fault in FRM memory.
Here are TIS circuit diagrams for (1) Power Window Inputs and (2) Exterior Mirrors for your 2011 335i E92:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...inputs/uLU1dRI
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...irrors/vBs9cBm
Also, it would be key to isolating the cause to the driver switch cluster to try operating the passenger window from the passenger door switch. If you had INPA running, you could activate the driver door window directly via your computer keyboard and bypass the Driver Switch Cluster, further isolating the problem.
IDEA 2.0:
Since the intermittent fault appears to clearly be related to ambient temp, and metal (think electrical contacts/ wires ;-) contracts with reduced temp, quite possibly a loose/ broken contact/ wire. Linked below is the X257 connector at the front of Driver Door where the LIN-BUS wire from the Door Switch Cluster connects to wiring that goes to the FRM. If I had your issue, I would be particularly interested in the White/Brown wire (LIN_BUS) that goes from Pin #4 of Connector X10725 of the Cluster (A23b) or "Switch block" to Pin #6 of Connector X257 at the door front, and then to Pin #23 of Connector X14260 at the FRM.
TIS X257 Wiring Diagram:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...7-x257/bkU1A9q
X257 Installation Location:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/RHEGwIv
X257 Connector View:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-cou/CTDOrVKY
Maybe point that heat gun at X257 instead? 
Please let us know what you find,
George |
Wow man thanks for that thorough reply, I kinda feel bad saying this now... I think it may be a mechanical/physical problem after all. Let me explain.
I came back from work and when I pulled the handle the window didn't go down but came out perfectly... looks like it wasn't all the way up all day (maybe when like I said I tried to push it down so it could close it went down by a few millimetres). So got in, noticed window did not roll back up, started the car. Pressed down switch to lower my window and it went down after a .5 struggle. I heard some kind of ice breaking so seems like it was stuck like that. Then the window wouldn't go back up with 1 touch. Drove off and as soon as I did one touch was restored.
What I will do to test this out before going the electrical route, I will apply more rubber protector (Sonax gummipfleger) literally all around my window seals, compared to just the door seals that I did before winter. We will see how that works.
Once again thanks for that long and thorough reply lol, should come in handy for sure if the gummipfleger doesn't work, I shall let you know!