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      07-26-2011, 10:47 AM   #596
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Drives: 2008 335i Sedan
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicago, IL

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2008 335i E90  [4.00]
Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 View Post
couple key things to note.

1. In this thread we go by centigrade when it comes to coolant temps. So your seeing 110-115C in stop and go? That's not too abnormal. Most of us on this thread will probably see 98C tops. That's because we are running a summer coolant mix, while you're stock. You've also probably never used a cooling system flush, like prestone, or peak's formula, so your radiator has all sorts of hot spots, causing your high temps.
Sorry for the confusion. My oil temperature gauge is in F, we live in America, so naturally, I thought I'd post my findings in F. I am from Europe and while F is confusing as hell to me, I have learned to deal with both systems. My P3 gauge allows me to switch between English and Metric units for most of the values it gets from the CAN bus so I should be able to provide data points in Centigrade. Agreed, I've never done a cooling system flush.

2. Your coolant and maybe oil is dropping, when you turn on your AC, because of the same exact reason why it drops when you turn on your heater. When you turn on, either the AC or heater, coolant flows through the heating core located inside your dashboard. A fan then blows on it. Believe it or not, with the dial at say 70F, weather you turn on the heater or AC, coolant flows through the heating core. Do some research if you doubt me, and learn how the heater/AC works:

Its still 10x's better to turn on your heater at the track, not the AC. Most of us know this. The AC will turn on the compressor, and add parasitic power loss to your car.

There is no need to educate me how the heater core works. I have pretty strong mechanical and technical background and I've had the chance to replace 2 heater cores on two different cars so far. I am also well aware of the parasitic power loss you get when the AC is turned on. When I suggested this as an option I was thinking that some people might be able to actually prefer to FINISH a track session with a car which has a bit less power than actually limping to the pits after a few hot laps. I also thought that would be a great way to cool the car down AFTER your track sessions were over.

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 View Post
3. Please don't take this the wrong way, cuz you're a bit of a hot head online, but NOTHING you can do to your car, will ever even come close to simulating the type of heat stress you put a car through on the track. NOTHING. Not repeated acceleration runs, stop and go in 115F,....Nothing! So thanks for your contribution, but please take your car to the track above 80F, to understand what we are dealing with.
Agreed. I am often strongly opinionated about things and I have low tolerance for bull crap. So yeah, I might come as a hot head online. I do however agree with you that city, street and highway driving does not compare at all to track events. It was not my intention to present it this way and if it was perceived this way, then I apologize.

Like I said before, I only wanted to contribute an observation that really stood out to me, that's all. I don't think anyone will be hurt by reading a few extra paragraphs or even trying my suggestions.

Finally, while I don't have much track experience just yet, I am trying to get as much seat time as possible. At the moment, the car that I have is too much of a car for my skills as a driver, so I am currently not able to push it to the limit. But when that happens, I will be most definitely concentrating on proper radiator cooling as I do believe that coolant temperatures govern the oil temperatures. Why else do you think the PPK has an extra radiator?

Take care and good luck on the track.
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