I take no responsibility for what you do with your car. What you do is at your own risk!
Make sure you have an understanding of how a turbo works before you start adjusting everything!
If you are local and do not feel comfortable performing this work then you can contact me to set something up.
Make sure that the ticking isn't happening because you are using a lagfix map with a tune. Lagfix maps tend to rattle. Only perform this if the ticking is happening when the ECU is at the stock configuration.
As some of you know, I've had some problems with my wastegates rattling.
I was one of the first to have this issue.
If you don't know about this issue then read the link down below and look at the pictures. It will help you understand this issue.
I started this thread once I found what I thought was the issue but then I realized that it had nothing to do with gaps where I thought.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132037
I closed that thread because of a couple reasons:
1. If you want it done professionally and you don't care about the extra lag and the less power with tunes then you need to take it into the dealer and have them fix it.
2. This really is a solution to the problem. In most (if not all) cases that I know, the wastegate ticking is caused from the rear wastegate ticking. The front one is perfectly fine.
First off, how is everything working?
When you start the car with a pre 29.2 program, the rear wastegate shuts at idle to decrease some of the lag.
The solenoid is controlled electronically to control the actuator with a vacuum. This is why there is a vacuum line going from the solenoid to the actuator.
When the actuator is being controlled with a vacuum, the actuator rod gets sucked into the actuator, which pulls the wastegate closed.
The ticking is the sound of the wastegate rattling against the seal if there is not enough pressure keeping it closed.
Why does 29.2 solve the issue most of the time?
Because with this program, when you start the car up, the rear wastegate is not closed anymore. It is open. Therefore, there is nothing to rattle against any seal.
Here is the issue:
The Actuator Rod is loosening after time. When the rod loosens, the length of the rod increases and increases, eventually making the wastegate not seal properly. Since there eventually becomes little to no pressure against the seal, then the wastegate rattles against the seal, causing the ticking sound.
I took my car to the dealer and they told me that in order to fix the problem, they would need to first update the program to the newest software before they touch the wastegates. The dealer does not adjust the actuators. They are told to replace the actuators with brand new ones and then adjust the new ones.
So, because of this, I refused the service.
Let's think about how to fix this:
There is the one 10mm nut, and there is a groove on the actuator rod, which is meant for a wrench to adjust.
I figured, why I can’t I do this?
The first thing you need to do is loosen the 10mm nut.
Second, you need to find a wrench that's small enough to fit in the groove of the rod. I actually made one using a regular piece of scrap metal in the garage and a dremel to cut a groove in it since I don't have tools that small.
Once you have the tool, tighten the rod a couple revolutions (this is subjective because some ticking could be worse than others). Of course, you don't want to tighten the rod up that much since the wastegates still need to open.
Seriously, for those out there that never ever wants the new program because of the lag and all the crap that goes with it, this really is an easy solution for you to do if you are somewhat handy.
I take no responsibility for what you do with your car. What you do is at your own risk!
Make sure you have an understanding of how a turbo works before you start adjusting everything!