Quote:
Originally Posted by Pohsib
Also, don’t bother with the disconnect kit from AutoZone
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I used the plastic Autozone disconnect tool after the oil pan gasket replacement three times to disconnect that return line, worked each time, didn't have to replace the pipe nor replace internals of it :P (One time to replace the faulty oil separator, another time to replace the starter and third time to fix a mistake I had made while replacing the starter) It works. I was going from above the engine those times though, to remove the intake manifold.
But even from under the engine for oil pan gasket replacement, you just need to push the tool in place, then push the hose end up, it will disconnect. That plastic tool has an open area that you can push the hose up through it with a flat screw driver like you did. The difference it won't break anything. I didn't know about that disconnect tool when I did my oil pan gasket, but I had another way having cast aluminum oil pan, the tube that goes into the pan is threaded in (and plastic) in those. I just unthreaded that tube. The steel oil pans have that tube welded.
If there was enough room the oil return pipe can even be disconnected by hand.
The major resistance is coming from the O-rings, even when locking ring is in unlocked position. The ring gets into unlocked position if you push the connector down towards the oil pan. Then If (not enough room) you can grab the two knurled sides not to let the locking ring go down and lock again, you can just pull it out. The Autozone disconnect tool unlocks the ring and as long as you keep the tool pushed up, it won't let the ring lock back again.
(All this is relevant only for Silver top (magnesium valve cover) N52 engines '06 models)