Quote:
Originally Posted by dylim
Just did this... No, you don't have to do anything to the transfer case.
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Dylim is absolutely correct, I just did this job and got it done in about 4 hrs.
It's a little tricky manuvering the sway bar around the steering rack, and so for an additional 4 bolts I simply dropped the sway bar separately, I also dropped the transfer case drive shaft to the front diff in the process, found it gave me more room to clean up the oil pan (Also just 8 bolts).
Since my gasket was toast, there were pieces that fell into the oil pan upon removal, take your time and get all of it out of the pan before your oil pump sucks some rubber into it and you got a bigger project on your hand.
I also read for the oil pan bolt torque specs are 8nm with a 90 degree rotation, I did a cross cross pattern on the torque and then a star pattern for the 90 degrees and everything has been holding plum. This way was WAY faster than dropping CVs and Dif, but you sacrifice a degree of accessibility and mobility of the pan with all that drivetrain still attached. Take your time aligning your gasket with the oil pan, no better way to snap a aluminum bolt than getting it in the hole wrong.
Also, spend the money to buy or rent a engine cross bar support, if you try to use an engine hoist you'll want to break something with how the hoist will be in your way.
Might be a little redundant, but don't forget to drop the 3 steel torx bolts from the bell housing side when dropping your pan, I forgot and had a close scare when my pan wasn't lowering.
