Quote:
Originally Posted by cranelec
Absolutely. From my perspective, the external difference is significant. Hopefully, I'll post those pictures Sunday. I was amazed how good my original oil pan looked after I blasted it with
At this point in my project, I now realize how much more difficult working on a dd car from the snow belt vs. cars that have never seen road salt. My replacement engine is from Texas and the copper coated? turbofold nuts are pristine. My PS2 only saw one winter and the amount of exterior corrosion observed was astonishing (fortunately, I packed the inside cavity of the turbofold nuts with copper anti-seize.). Due to corrosion. I destroyed the brake pipe from the MC to the right front caliper (Making bubble flairs takes a little practice). Another challenge is realizing how difficult this project is without a complete parts list.
Please give me your opinion on reusing the ferrous bolts whose torque specifications are not 'torque-to-yield). Newtis.info apparently wants you to pretty much use all new bolts.
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What bolts are you referring to? Oil pan, windage tray, and plenty of other bolts in the engine are aluminum stretch bolts. You give the oil pan bolts 90* stretch past the initial seating torque. They will never produce the same clamping force if you re-use them. It can be done, but do you really want to break bolts and/or have to deal with a leaky oil pan gasket to save $20?
Both of those pans are similar enough that I wouldn't think there would be much if any difference in terms of keeping oil around the pickup lol