Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayk90
...Vehicle: 2008 BMW 328xi Coupe Automatic with the N51 Engine. Mileage 137,xxx miles; Condition: No crank, no start. Starter doesn't turn on. All exterior/interior lights and electrics work. Key remote works...27 misc. module codes. Whenever the brake pedal is held and the Start/Stop button is pressed down, a noise can be heard from under the back seat, which I presume is the fuel pump. I can also hear a faint electrical noise under the hood, but no distinct clicking of any solenoids...Car is located 1 hour away from me, so testing it is a challenge...
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Welcome to the Forum!
ACTIVE Codes (Those Currently Present):
A6CF: AUC Sensor ("Bucket" for now ;-)
CF17: DSC Message missing; SAS reset needed after battery replacement once engine starts
54C6: Transfer Case Oil Wear; normally appears ~ 130,000 miles; "Bucket" for now
604E & 6057: TPMS indicates no signal from RR pressure sensor in wheel; "Bucket"
5EBA: SAS Sensor Reset Needed; turn steering "Lock-to-Lock" twice after engine start; this is common after Dead Battery or Battery disconnection, and likely the cause of CF17 above which should also become "History" when Reset done
A0B4: THIS is indicating NO Starter Activation or Function; WHICH? is the BIG QUESTION
A8C2: Reversing (Backup) Light Fault, Right
A8B6: Brake Light Fault, Left
The rest of the codes are "History" which means those faults are NOT Active or "Currently Present".
Generally, there is NOTHING in the Fault Codes (OTHER than A0B4 ;-) that suggests the car needs substantial work. The FIRST question to be addressed (as you appear to recognize) is WHY won't the Starter Crank? A0B4 confirms that the CAS has recognized the Starter is NOT being activated. AFAIK, that code can occur from either:
1) A faulty Starter/Starter Solenoid: Although 12V+ is being applied to the Solenoid by the CAS, the Solenoid is NOT Activating/Turning the Starter; or
2) The CAS is NOT supplying the 12V+ supply to the Solenoid to trigger the Starter. It would be a shame to go to all the trouble & expense of removing the Intake, replacing the Starter, ONLY to find that the old one passes a bench test & the New one won't crank either.
The CAS Module has the ability to provide quick answers to the question if your Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software has the ability to query the "Parameters" or Live Data (Inputs to CAS Module) from the CAS.
BEFORE the CAS can send the 12V+ Activation Signal to the Starter, in addition to being Powered and a proper key being recognized, the following must happen:
1) Brake Light Switch signal must be received. Does at least ONE of the brake lights come ON when Brake Pedal pressed?
2) Gear Selector Position P/N (Park or Neutral) must be received. Does "P" light in the Gear Indicator Module on Console to Left of gear selector lever with Ignition ON?
3) Engine RPM must be 0.
INPA shows each of those as Live Data, when connected to CAS Module. I don't know anything about BlueDriver, but it MAY have the ability to read such Parameters/Live Data (called "Status" in INPA). It's NOT rocket science, it's just displaying whether inputs are being received by CAS Module, or NOT -- essentially whether a certain switch is "open" or "CLOSED". So I would read the BlueDriver Manual or Documentation to see if IT can do that, and if NOT, consider getting a K+DCAN Cable for $45 (BimmerGeeks) and getting the FREE Download (linked on BimmerGeeks site) for BMW Standard Tools (includes INPA), and E89 Datens, which is what E9x models use.
NEXT, if the necessary Brake & Gear signals are being received, you need to know if CAS is "Activating Terminal 50" which is a measurement of Voltage supplied by CAS to the Starter Solenoid. Once again, the CAS Module gets inputs of Voltage at each "Terminal" including Terminal 50 (Starter Activation) and Terminal 15 (Ignition Activation), as well as Terminal 87 (DME Relay Activation). If your BlueDriver can't do that, consider getting INPA.
So CAS can tell you if it's getting the necessary Input Signals (Brake & Gear) to activate Starter, and if it's sending Voltage to Starter Solenoid (Terminal 50). If you can quickly query that information with Scan Tool or Software, that's the proper FIRST Step. If you don't have the capability to do that via the OBD II Socket, then there are STILL things you can do to DIAGNOSE/TEST before doing surgery.
TIS (newtis.info) has TONS of detailed information on most anything related to E9x models (and other BMW models). Their circuit diagrams are the place to start to understand how a system works, and how to test to identify or confirm the cause of a fault. In this case, the CAS Module wiring diagram is what you want to understand in order to "test before surgery":
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uXuCNh9
That's the CAS Module wiring diagram for 2008 328xi E92. The CAS Module has the Code A149a, and the Starter Motor/Solenoid has the Code M6510a in this Schematic. NOTE the Black wire that runs from Pin #22 of Connector X13376 at the CAS to the Starter Connector X6510. That is the wire that supplies voltage to activate the Starter Solenoid and make it click when START is pressed with Brake Pedal pressed and Gear Selector in "P".
So using a simple DMM (Digital Multimeter) you can test for "Activation Signal" when START is pressed. Just go into E-box and measure Voltage at either "intervening connector" between CAS & Starter:
1) X6011, Pin #1: per this TIS Installation Location & Connector View:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-cou/SL92ADs
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-cou/Cjob60dQ
2) X60531, Pin #2: Actually, there MAY be an error in the Schematic, as I find NO "Installation Location" for this Connector on YOUR vehicle. So I would just test at X6011 described above. You might follow the wire from X6011/Pin#1 to see if it goes to another connector within the E-box BEFORE it leaves the E-box to go to the Starter.
You can test TWO different things at X6011 in the E-box:
1) Does CAS send 12V+ signal when START Pressed?
2) Can you activate the Starter Solenoid or make it click by applying 12V+ to DISCONNECTED wire that runs to the Starter? Make sure you don't apply voltage to the CAS -- Disconnect CAS wire to X6011/1.
You may ask: WHY go to the trouble of removing the Microfilter Housings (Upper & Lower) and opening the E-box? Well, you are going to have to remove those housings to remove the Intake Manifold and Starter, so NO time lost if Starter does NOT crank when voltage is applied to DISCONNECTED Starter Solenoid wire.
ALSO, since the car has sat UNUSED for 2 years, IF the starter worked 2 years ago, it is likely that the Solenoid may be "loosened up" and become operative IF you remove the Microfilter Housings, and tap it firmly with a wooden dowel, broom handle, etc. It would be preferable NOT to use a metal rod, as if you contact the Starter Supply wire (BIG, RED WIRE ;-), you are likely to weld it (or yourself ;-) to the chassis/engine, blow the fusible link, etc. You don't indicate ANYTHING about the history of WHY the vehicle was parked for 2 years, NOR whether there was an issue (undiagnosed) with the vehicle which caused it to NOT be used. IF obtaining such history is possible, that might assist in diagnosis.
If you have NOT discovered TIS, Bentley, and other valuable References, or if you are wondering what is the best Diagnostic Tool to use and where to get it, see the attached "E9x References" pdf. BOTH TIS & Bentley contain excellent procedures for performing a particular task, such as Starter R&R. ANY DIY type who owns a BMW NEEDS to know how to use those tools.
George