Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayk90
... the starter is now working! The broom stick did it. George, the K+DCAN cable is on order from BimmerGeeks. - Hit the starter with a stick, engine started to crank!
- Added 5 gallons of fresh Premium.
- Engine still cranking but slower than normal. [What are you comparing with? What is RPM reading on Tach during cranking?]
- Battery voltage at 11 and change. [Get a charger on it. It SHOULD be 12.5 V at the Jumpstart Terminals under hood, but anything >/= 12.0V should crank the starter. 11.X V is problematic. Use Jumpstart Terminals BOTH for Charger & Jumping. Do NOT connect to the battery in the trunk as that MAY cause damage to the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) on the Negative Battery Cable.]
- Attached a jumper pack, still cranking slow.
- Hooked up jumper cables with a running car, cranking but not starting.
- Tried starting without the Air Box/MAF and sprayed Carb Cleaner through the intake pipe. Engine started for 1 sec and died right away. Wouldn't start again even while spraying more carb cleaner.
- Couldn't find my OBD2 scanner, so didn't get to check for Live Data nor any new codes.
... - I'm thinking it's either Fuel or Spark related.
- I have a fuel pressure gauge, so I can check pressure at the fuel rail, however is it also possible to remove the injectors and inspect them without getting all new gaskets? [I would NOT remove the injectors. I have seen injectors "stick" after sitting unused for years [untreated fuel gets "gummy", but you can just test with a 9V battery, or 12V from Jumpstart Terminal, applying 12V+ to Pin #1, Orange wire, and BRIEF Chassis Ground to Pin #2, White/Whatever wire (just a "tap"). If NO click from injector when powered in that fashion, some light impact to the METAL injector body with a small metal object, like a 1/4" ratchet, will often free a "stuck" injector (similar to what you did with starter, just a LOT less impact).
 ]
- For spark, I'm thinking of laying the coil and plug on the engine block and visually checking for spark while the engine is cranking. Is there another better way? [Sounds Good]
- Air is good, unless there is something wrong up the stream. [If you are trying to start engine with Air Filter Housing & MAF removed, make sure you have disconnected the MAF Connector at the rear of the Filter Housing, so the DME runs "Mapped". You WILL have an MAF code of course.]
- The engine definitely sounds like it has compression.
- I was thinking of removing the accessory belt and checking all the pulleys by hand to make sure nothing is seized and holding the engine back. [If it fired for a second on Brake Cleaner, I would NOT bother with that]
What do you guys think I should try next? [STILL got the BlueDriver? CODES are always good, and you probably have some NEW ones now that the Starter has cranked the Engine, and the Engine has fired on Brake Cleaner (Ether/Starting Fluid would be better ;-)]... |
Glad to know the Starter is working. Likely the Starter Solenoid and "Bendix" just liked "got used to" the position they had been in for two years (inertia, rust, corrosion & all that ;-)
Once the Starter Cranks the engine, new codes related to Crankshaft Sensor, Cam Position Sensors, VVT, etc. may be present, OR there could be NO Main DME Relay (Terminal 87), Ignition (Terminal 15) Relay, etc. Since you're experienced in automotive systems generally, but unfamiliar with specific BMW E92 Systems, I would suggest getting Codes FIRST. While BMW-specific "Hex-codes" are preferable, for the DME (Engine Control Module), ANY generic P-code reader will give you most anything important (NOT the 5 Electric Coolant Pump Codes -- but that pump is NOT preventing Starting ;-)
INPA (BMW Standard Tools) will give you the most comprehensive Diagnostics, in ALL ~ 20 Modules in the Vehicle, but at the moment, all we need is info from the DME. So beg/ borrow/ steal ANY decent scan tool and read codes. Read Freeze Frame Data for each code TOO if tool will provide it (it's saved in the DME, it's just a matter of what the Tool can Read, and if you know HOW to use it.
With Fault Codes, we can provide TIS circuits & suggested tests. I have a "little trouble" with the concept of the owner just quit driving it even though it was running. Most people would at least start it every several weeks or month, even though they had a new vehicle, and even though the Safety Inspection (or registration) had expired.
If it started on Brake Cleaner for ~ 1 second, then you have Ignition. Need to check for fuel pump (in tank under RR seat cushion) whine when you unlock the car or open the driver door. If pump is NOT running, there SHOULD be a fault code in the DME (as well as in the EKPS (Fuel Pump Module). There could be a wiring/ connector fault, or even just a bad/ blown fuse.
Here are the TIS circuits for Fuel Pump, Injectors, and Coils for 2008 328xi E92 (N51):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uL5g1L7
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ection/vQegKNb
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nition/vBlJ2fy
The old-school way of disconnecting coil (COP coil), attaching a spare sparkplug (or taking out the one coil was attached to), grounding plug, and looking for spark during Starter Cranking works if your Starter does, and YOU don't get shocked.
The N51 has some "Features" (Over-engineering for "Super Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle" status (SULEV), such as different Gas Tank Plumbing and Fuel Pump circuitry, which CAN cause issues.
I would start by reading codes, checking fuses F70 (Fuel Pump Module/Pump) and F39 (Coils & Injectors). There are a lot of other tests we can devise if we have the codes.
George