Quote:
Originally Posted by dpaul
I'll start with the admonition to get rid of ISTA-P. It does not understand vehicles that might be non-standard. It does not allow fine (individual module) control and updates all sorts of things in ways that you might not want. It is dangerous to use without an ICOM adapter, which I gather you do not have. So, I presume you are using the emulator software to run the KCAN cable. Not safe.
Use WinKFP to update the programming for one module at a time. It is bulletproof. Use NCSExpert to update the coding for one module at a time. If you don't understand the difference between programming and coding, google it. Learn to use INPA for diagnostics - it is much more powerful than ISTA-D. It is less user-friendly but there are plenty of threads describing its capabilities.
That said, I'm happy your engine started and ran after your 'update'. That means whatever programming/coding was commanded was executed successfully, or successfully enough.
To begin with, I am not sure what symptom you are experiencing: is your problem that the starter motor does not turn or does the starter crank the engine but the engine does not fire?
I'll assume it's the former and if so, there are a limited number of possibilities that you can easily test without spending any money or making completely random guesses like replacing the Terminal 30G relay:
In order of (what I think is) most likely:
1) The battery is weak/dead.
2) The starter motor is bad
3) The ground cable from engine to chassis is corroded.
4) Positive lead from battery to engine compartment jumper terminal is damaged, usually corroded at the battery box connector due to water accumulation.
6) Wire/connectors from CAS to the starter solenoid is bad
7) Internal circuitry in CAS is damaged.
8) The switch sensing depression of clutch (for manual trans) or brake pedal (automatic, as in your case) is bad, or the wires /connectors associated with it are bad.
Luckily, INPA can measure all the voltages and test all the switches for you:
Turn the ignition on but don't try to start the car.
Load INPA then select E90->Body->Car Access System (CAS) -> F5 Status -> F2 Analog -> F1 Diagnose Terminals
Look at any KL30 bar graph (i.e. KL30L, KL30E etc). If the voltage is significantly less than 12 (like low 11s or less), your battery has a problem. KL50L (V), the voltage on the line to the starter solenoid, and KL50L (A), the current drawn by the solenoid should both be zero.
Then try pushing the start button. The voltage on KL50 should go up. If the starter engaged and the battery was healthy you'd read about 10V or so because the high current drain of the starter causes the battery voltage to drop. KL50L (A) would be in the range of 7 amps or so - that's just what the solenoid is drawing, not the starter motor itself. If KL50L V stays at zero, your CAS is damaged. If it goes to 12 (or whatever the resting battery voltage is), there could be a damaged wire/connector between CAS and solenoid
You can test the pedal switches by selecting E90->INPA -> Body->CAS -> F5 Status -> F1 Digital -> F2 Status Clamp contro. Press the pedal and make sure the circle changes from white to black
Ground and battery cables are easy to test. Just use a jumper cable to bypass them.
Good luck!
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Amazing! thank you so much for the detailed reply. I will be testing all of these things this weekend, as soon as i have a dry day (i work outside unfortunately).
As for which issue it is, i have no crank at all. When pushing the start button i get dash lights, priming of some pump, and nothing else. So unfortunately, i have NO crank at all.
I will say, i was so impressed with the information and depth included in IstaP that im surprised its not the recommended software, but will definitely take your advice and switch to INPA for diagnostics and winkfp & ncsexpert for coding only.
I had initially started with WinKFP, however was unable to locate a few of my module ZB numbers in any SPDATEN i used (50.2, 55, 60.2). Assuming they had been replaced at some point (bought used) I had switched to ISTAP due to the glowing reviews in many forums.
Yes, I am using the emulator for K+Dcan, I had read that the newer bimmergeeks pro versions were 'safe' to use for full program so long as a voltage reg was used as the KDcan would take far longer (obviously incorrect)
As for the 'coding' vs 'programming' I do realize there is a difference, and believe one is for changing settings already present, and one is to add new options completely (or delete), however see them used interchangeably (incorrectly) and apologize if i mix them up.
You are definitely correct that i was simply guessing with T30 replacement, if 'a little knowledge is dangerous' then google university made me a monkey with a machine gun. lol
Your last option there on your list seems interesting, as one symptom i have noticed but forgot to mention is that the brake pedal is extremely 'hard', and difficult to depress.
I will start with your list, and invest in a voltage meter for testing, and update as soon as i have diagnostic info, just one clarification, if measuring voltages and such, I do so without the voltage regulator attached, correct? I assume if connected to a regulator the voltages would not read correctly, however assumptions got me where I am now lol
Once again, I truly appreciate all of the information, and you taking the time.
<edit #1>
i have read in many places that it could be an EWS sync issue due to the ISTAP upgrades? I will obviously do all the above diagnostics before attempting anything else, but does that sound like it could be a potential cause?