Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik325tds
hungry4cheese, you're fine reviving this old thread as your problem corresponds to the title of the thread.
I've experience similar problems with some of the adaptations not resetting with a D-CAN USB cable. Try getting hold of someone with an ICOM for that.
Yet, the increment wheel adaptations I think are the most important adaptations to be reset and you write that this was successful. Can you please confirm that?
If you're having zero quantity adaptation problems and have no ICOM available, you can try having the DDE do these adaptations by itself. It does so during longer coasting operation (the translated German documentation calls it "overrun" for some strange reason). So try going on the highway or rural roads and let off the accellerator pedal for extended times while still in gear. The DDE will turn off all injectors and then start increasing injection until it sees the minimum injection that leads to firing. That is the zero quantity adaptation.
Good luck and please report back.
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Ah thank you for the prompt response on this. So if I am understanding correctly, the zero quantity adaptations cannot be reset then? Only mean quantity in istad/+.
Yes to clear things up I was able to reset two adaptations - maf and increment wheel. After these resets I noticed what seemed like a bit more "knock" like noise when accelerating more quickly from a stop, but no issues otherwise. My "misfire" seems to have gone away for now. I do have swirl flap deletes just FYI. No tune otherwise (yet).
I will try coasting for longer durations. I do remember that after a long drive last time on a highway, the engine got smoother for some time, but then started to have that slight misfire. Last night I coasted down a hill with no issues, but it was only for a few minutes with light gas occasionally. Coming back up the hill, I got a rough running controller cyl 1 error (and a bunch of emissions codes and ambient temp sensor code).
As for getting my hands on an icom cable... I'm not sure I have any means of doing so unless somebody has one in the Seattle area
I'll bring beers! I could go to the dealership and tell them I've had cbu cleaning to reset everything, but I think they will charge an arm and a leg just to plug it in. Come to think of it, I'll probably go to dudmd tuning as they're down the street for help.
I do have errors in the ecu sometimes for the maf (which is brand new) and also an error for the ambient temperature sensor. I have replaced the charge pipe temp sensor and the sensor in the bumper for outside temp to try to fix this and the error keeps coming back. I see an odd temperature on my obd scanner though for one of the temperatures. Another mystery. A little history that may help - car was in a collision. This ended in me having to replace both turbos (new gaskets), turbo oil lines, maf, tube from maf to turbo with sensor, entire front end. Then I had a fire by the downpipe, which resulted in having to replace valve cover, entire engine wiring, rear side rail pressure regulator, and a bunch of burned up plastic. I also did valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, TB gaskets, charge pipe seals, cbu cleaning, swirl flap delete. I have a slew of errors related to emissions constantly throwing a check engine light. I wanted to get the engine running perfectly first and then planning on deleting egr, downpipe, scr and tune. Mechanical issue I still have - thermostat seems stuck open. Engine coolant temp remains around 50-70C.
Sorry for the wall of text, but whatever may help!
Thanks!