Quote:
Originally Posted by zx10guy
If you can't run the conduit, just pay for someone to do it. It's not impossible.
As someone stated in a previous reply, if you have the financial means to have a home with a separate pool house, you should be able to afford to pay to get this done properly.
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I just wanted to address this point first.
First, just because someone has a fancy big house and hangs out on the BMW forums, doesn't mean they've got heaps of spare cash. While there's a fair whack of people on these foums clearing half-a-mil per annum; I've no doubt there's a fair few people here who've shelled out for the initial investment, but not left a lot of headroom for the higher expenses that come with such fancy "investments".
Which is a long way of saying - just because OP has a Poolhouse, it's not really fair to assume they're flush with cash.
Secondly, if this is a lavish mansion with a poolhouse, you're probably not talking a simple $300 trench & fill job. ... There's probably paving, and i dunno... maybe a pool in the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zx10guy
Powerline adapters typically only work if the adapters are sitting on the same electrical circuit, ie no circuit breaker in between. There are some powerline adapters that claim to be able to work across breakers. But I haven't seen one personally.
If you've read my posts, getting any of the wireless mesh systems like Google WiFi, Netgear Orbi, Linksys Velop, Eero, etc, you're going to run into a problem of wireless performance between access points as they all use omnidirectional antennas. If you want to use a wireless mesh, you need to spend the money and buy access points which support wireless mesh and can use external antennas which you'll be using directional antennas.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This.
I'm trying to be polite about it, but a lot of people in this thread could pay to listen to what
zx10guy is saying here. There are a lot of fancy, expensive, porcupine looking wireless routers on the market now, and a whole lot of brand name "mesh network" crap which you can feel free to spend thousands on getting your iPads hooked up to netflix around the house, but in reality are a single-radio wifi access point with some fancy management software. If you want to do a fast, reliable wireless connection in an outdoor area, you're best leaving those devices on the shelf.
For outdoor building links, you want a wireless network to act as a pseudo-wire. If you need devices in the house or in the pool house to connect to a wireless network, that's a separate thing.
For your outdoor link, you run a NETWORK CABLE from your Internet router to a specific point-to-point wireless access point which is mounted on the external wall of the house pointing toward the poolhouse. (ie.
One of these ). You buy a SECOND ONE which is mounted on the external wall of the poolhouse, facing the one on the house, which will be the one and only wireless devices associated with the access point on your house.
Either, you connect the computer in the poolhouse to the nanobeam using a network cable, or you get a cheap shitty indoor access point (or a sparkling new googe mesh system) for the WiFi network inside the poolhouse (
something like this).
If you don't have line of site from the poolhouse to the house, you find a third point which can be seen from both the poolhouse and the house, then you buy not one more, but TWO MORE nanobeams, connected with a network cable. One for the house link, one for the pool-house link.
You can have as many hops as you need to connect the network without it causing any performance issues, as long as you do it right to start with using point-to-point directional wireless links.
The Ubiquiti gear I've linked automatically finds free radio spectrum, is relatively easy to setup and is dirt cheap for the job it does. We use the nanobeams for sub 1km links, the powerbeams for 1-5km links and have an Airfibre link that's running more than 100Mbit/s over a 20km point to point link.