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      01-28-2012, 03:14 PM   #1
taibanl
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Drives: BMW
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Arrow Audio Table of Contents: Upgrading? Start HERE!


The frequent posters on this board have posted answers to the same questions over and over again. Follow this thread to avoid the repeat questions and find links to some of the answers. Note: this thread is organized thematically and hot linking is maximized; therefore you may see links to a particular thread appear more than once.
  1. Don't cut any wires!

    Just about any modification can be completely reversible; there are a number of solutions:

    For more harness info: see below
  2. Figure out the system with which you are starting

    There are 4, yes FOUR different levels audio systems in any E9x vehicle, with variations on each depending on the "brain" of the system.

    Audio System Overview from BMW TIS

    See: E9X audio systems defined.
    • Base/Stereo: 4 Mids + 2 underseats, no amp - Hint: look inboard of the mirrors at the A pillar...solid plastic instead of tweeters? --> Base
    • HiFi (Option 676): 4 mids, 2 underseats, 2 or 4 tweeters, analog amp<--EASIEST TO UPGRADE Hint: look inboard of the mirrors at the A pillar...tweeters? Yes & Center speaker in Dash: No? --> HiFi
    • Top Hifi/Logic 7 (Option 677)/Harman Kardon (Option 688): ~13 speakers, plus digital amp Hint: look inboard of the mirrors at the A pillar...tweeters? Yes & Center speaker in Dash: Yes? -->Top HiFi
    • Enhanced Premium Sound / Individual Audio (Option 752) (Brochure): ~16 speakers, digital amp Hint: look inboard of the mirrors at the A pillar...tweeters? Yes & Center speaker in Dash: Yes? AND See through speaker grilles with yellow speaker cones --> Individual Audio

    Due to the presence of analog, low-level, flat, balanced outputs, the HiFi option is the easiest to upgrade. If you have any of the others, you may be able to recode to HiFi
    Note: Within each, there are varying power levels (and in some cases different speakers), depending on the brain of the system:
    • Non I-Drive
      • Business HU (Option 662)
      • Professional HU (Option 663)
    • I-Drive
      • M-ASK (Business Nav)
      • CCC (Early Professional Nav)
      • CIC (Current Professional Nav)
    BUT...the important part is figure out your basic physical (amp+speaker) topology.
  3. Figure out what your goals are.

    Your goals may range from adding a little "thump" to a vehicle with the EPS or Logic 7 systems, or to completely gutting the system as frequently happens with the base stereo...or anything in between. Think of what your ultimate goal is (don't jump to I want to add X amp and Y sub), and research options. Often you will find a solution that is different than the one you planned, or decide there is a better way to do what you were thinking. Finally, this gets addictive, so if you think you might end up wanting more in the endgame, consider whether your path will allow you to "spiral" upgrade or if you will get stuck at a certain point, and have to replace components to go any further. To get an idea of what is possible, here is one of the best, most effective, oem friendly upgrades.

    If you aren't sure, talk to a competent installer, such as those who contribute on this forum (not one who is going to hack your car up). As a general matter, if someone is suggesting cutting door panels, wiring harnesses, putting in different size speakers...they almost certainly don't know what they are doing. Amazing quality audio can be obtained from BMWs using completely stock locations.
  4. Check out what equipment fits for your car.
  5. See examples of installation.
    Before you start: Installation overview "primer" courtesy of VP Electricity @ Musicar NW
    Link to the rest of the install threads (below)

At the end of the day, if your question isn't answered here, it has been elsewhere.... or better yet Google. Google does a great job of indexing this forum.


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Last edited by taibanl; 01-03-2014 at 09:52 PM..
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