First off I'd like to say welcome to my biggest DIY project yet.
This is a copy of my thread on e90post, i'll be updating both as I progress through this project. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1207505
Back Story:
I've been driving my car for about 2 years now (owned it since October, 2013) and I've been reading up on mechanics and other similar topics while having owned my car, seeing as how it was a BMW I told myself I would do the work on my own to save money. Well after doing all the work and learning the mechanics behind this German beast and with the car creeping up to 110k miles I was questioning whether to keep the car or trade it. The car has been very good to me, even after driving pretty hard it still runs 100 all day everyday, I do all recommended maintenance myself (3-5K mile Oil changes, changed transmission fluid @ 90K Miles, etc) . I've had all the common issues resolved via extended warranty (HPFP, Water pump, valve cover, oil filter housing gasket, mechatronic sleeve, injectors, etc) (foresaw this happening that is why I got the warranty) so after some research into the matter (manual swap) I found a really nice deal on a manual transmission with about 35K miles on it and I have a buddy of mine who has done several auto to manual swaps on other similar configuration cars (longitudinally mounted transmissions, aka: typical RWD drivetrain setup) and with some parts list of the conversion I was off! So with that being said, I have decided to document the whole process for anyone who is interested in performing this DIY. I've read nothing but negative things on this job, from "waste of money" to "it's not even worth it". Well to those who love their car too much to trade it in and want to convert to manual to revive some of that "ultimate driving experience" I say to you, Read on friends
!
Car we are talking about in this write-up:
2007 Black/Beige 335i Sedan N54 Build date: 01/07 (technically 12/06)
Will be swapping a GS6-53BZ from a 07 manual 335i with about 37K on the transmission
KEY:
BLUE = OEM Part number, location on diagram
RED = Additional notes based on observation and other things
Let's start off with the Parts list:[LIST]
I will for the most part being using OEM parts to perform this conversion, I recommend for those who want to save some money to attempt to find a loaner vehicle or in other words a car you can snag the parts off.
1. GS6-53DZ 6-Speed ZF Manual Gearbox
OEM part number: 23007571423 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=23_0926
2. Clutch switch module
(should come with master cylinder, doublecheck) OEM part number: 61319231129 (#20 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...08#61319231129
3. MTF-LT-2 or MTF-LT-3
(depends on what label on transmission says, if not check Bentley it will tell you, but from what I've heard LT-2 is the way to go unless stated on transmission otherwise)
4. BMW SAC(Self Adjusting Clutch) or equivalent
OEM part number: 21207567623 (#1 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=21_0227
5. BMW Manual Gearbox Shiftier Assembly with bracket
OEM part number: (all parts in diagram) (for this one I suggest finding a shifter from a loaner car it will a lot easier since this assembly does not come in one piece, search ebay, etc for assembly) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=VB73-USA-01-2007-E90-BMW-335i&diagId=25_0442
6. BMW OEM Dual Mass Flywheel or equivalent flywheel
OEM part number: 21207542984 (#1 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_3187
7. Pedalbox Assembly
(Brake and Clutch pedal box with Slave Cylinder attached (if no slave cylinder is attached then obtain it separate) OEM part number: 35006762926 (#1 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=35_0307
8. Engine wiring harness for manual transmission module
(if you don't plan on doing the wiring to the clutch switch module and the reverse light, 3 wires pretty straight forward might require proprietary connector or retrofitting) OEM part number: 12517556381 (#1 in diagram (S205A=No (Auto option = No))) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=12_1095
9. Clutch Master Cylinder
(Input Cylinder Clutch(if it doesn't come with pedal box)) OEM part number: 21526773670 (#1 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=21_0208
10. Clutch Slave Cylinder
(Output Cylinder Clutch ) OEM part number: 21526785964 (#15 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=21_0208
11. Clutch lines
(ones going from the Master to the Slave and from Master to Break fluid reservoir) OEM part number: (#14, 10, 7 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=21_0208
12. Manual gearbox Accelerator Pedal with accelerator module
OEM part number: 35426860000 (#1 in Diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=35_0274
13. Drive Shaft
(The automatic one is 1453mm, manual is 1470mm for models up to 03/07) OEM part number: 26107614384 (#1 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=26_0232
14. Manual Gearbox Diff
(3.08 ratio (only needed if you have the auto diff from 08 and up as they are smaller and require the diffs to be changed, unlike the ones from before 08 which sport the 3.46 ratio on the diff, so completely up to you if you want to change it out for the longer ratios aka less burn out potential, but better gas mileage)) OEM part number: 33107571187 (#1 in diagram) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_1348
15. Super DOT 4 Pentosin Brake Fluid or Equivalent
(Will need to add a little extra for clutch master and slave)
After Market Parts:
1. Spec Stage 1 Clutch
OEM part number: SB531-2 Decided to go with a Stage 1 instead of a Stage 2 as I didn’t feel the need to spend the extra hundred as I don’t plan on putting down lots of power and this clutch is good for 430 Torque http://www.specclutch.com/cars/BMW/335/2007/Single
2. Spec Aluminum Flywheel
OEM part number: SB53A-2 (
Went with this instead of a Dual Mass, good upgrade for those looking to take off some weight and a more connected feel. http://www.specclutch.com/cars/BMW/335/2007/Single
Little Parts (Bolts, screws, etc):
I also have added a few maintenance items while doing the transmissions It's a good idea to attack all the seals that you'll encounter especially with high mileage trans and motors. I would get the rear main seal, and the drive shaft insert as well and any seals for the trans if you have a high mileage transmission. I will not be replacing those as my trans only has about 35k on it. I will change the fluid of course. if you have the extra cash and they aren't expensive at all...total is about 20-30 bucks for both. Well Worth if you don't want oil leaking onto your clutch and flywheel.
Tools Required (I will add all the standard standard tools you will need as well later on, ie: 8mm, 10mm, etc I'll list just add the specialty ones for now relating to this job- Bentley Service Manual (THE DIY BIBLE) http://www.bentleypublishers.com/bmw...ir-manual.html
- Transmission Jack (Transmissions weighs about 125LB)
- 50mm Open Wrench (Rear Drive shaft to diff removal) (Found equivalent to speciality tool (tool is $600) use this yamaha axel nut wrench, https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...29-50mm?v=1685)
- Laptop with BMW programming software (INPA) or equivalent (find software on forums or elsewhere)
- 8,10,12,13,18,23mm socket and/or wrench (Get swivel sockets as well, these will help when getting into tight spots)
- E10,E12,E14 Torx socket
- 1/2 Torque Wrench
- Jack and Jack stands ( If you have no lift available)
- 1/2” and 3/8” extensions (Get wobble extensions they will help with getting out the bellhousing bolts!)
- Zip Ties (Long ones and short ones (you never know…))
- Pressure Bleeder (To bleed brakes when adding in new fluid for clutch)
- Red Thread Locker (for the flywheel bolts, very important. You don't want your flywheel bolts to start coming undone with all the heat and vibration)
*TIPS*
1. For the manual harness wiring there a few proprietary connectors that will need to either be obtained or bypassed in order to wire in the connection for the brake light and the clutch switch module
Picture:View post on imgur.com
2. For the Driveshaft you can either buy the back half of a manual or buy the whole manual driveshaft. Be sure to double check length based on what diff you have. Look up driveshaft on realoem to check for length.
3. Inlet coolant pipe on automatics have a pipe that sticks out that needs to be plugged somehow(tips i've gotten on this was bolt and JB weld or if it's the right material just weld something to it to shut it.
Picture:View post on imgur.com
4. Heater Return line, same thing as well, but this is just a rubber hose that will need to be plugged, as this is where the heat exchanger was plugged into.
Picture:View post on imgur.com
5.You can choose to replace the radiator if you want to, but the radiator in the N54 consists of a separate flow for the oil cooler for the transmission. The heat exchanger can be removed without problems to the rest of the coolant system.
Picture:View post on imgur.com
How-To:
I'm still at the moment gathering all the parts required for this, I will also be linking different DIY's and guides I found online relating to this and I will reference many of them for wiring and such as well. I will update this thread as I obtain the parts and do the prerequisite work. I will also edit the parts list with OEM Part numbers for sourcing, as well as add more tools and such later one. I will also add the wiring diagram.
1. Place car on a lift or use jacks and stands to lift the car by its 4 jacking points
(Plastic slots)
2. Remove Plastic Splashguard covers underneath car
(8mm)
3. Remove Exhaust completely
4. Remove the 2x brackets that hold the Plastic Splashguard
(one is 10mm and other is 13mm)
5. Remove Heat shield for access to transmission tunnel
(8mm and 10mm) (Flush the transmission at this point if you haven’t already)
6. Remove the Driveshaft from the transmission
(3x 18mm bolts attaching driveshaft to flex-disc, and 2x 13mm bolts holding center bearing to chassis)
a. Before pulling be sure to setup some zip ties or something to hold the driveline up when it is pulled out
7. Unplug and remove O2 sensors
(as you remove place a zip tie or label to note connections to each sensor)
8. Remove O2 sensor bracket from bellhousing
(2x E10 fasteners) once removed affix it to the side via a zip tie or equivalent
9. In the engine compartment remove the cabin air filters and IAT sensors on cowl, they will simply unclip.
10. Remove the Drip pan
(2x 8mm fasteners on the side and 2x rubber clips that simply pull out) Lift up and towards the front of the vehicle to remove
11. Remove upper most bolt on the bellhousing
(1x E14) (use a flex head socket to reach tight spots next to firewall)
12. Remove upper most bolt on the starter
(1x E12) (Bolt going into transmission) (use flex head socket again) (at this point you can go ahead and remove the automatic transmission harness and replace with manual or remove the automatic connectors from the ECU Box and wire in the brake light switch and the clutch switch module, also remove the cooler lines attached to the heat exchanger on the radiator (this is a closed loop supply, so you can remove the line without problems with leaking out coolant)
13. Go back to underneath the vehicle, support the transmission brace with a jack or stand if you have a lift
14. Remove fastener attaching brace to chassis
(4x 13mm)
15. Once removed, slowly and carefully drop the transmission down, you should only have to drop an inch or two.
16. With transmission still held up by stand or jack stick a piece of wood
(2x4 or a piece that will fit just right) in-between the oil pan and the sway bar. There should be a little bit of pressure on the wood then push it in.
*Watch out for the piece of wood falling out if you are pulling down on the tranny*
17. Grab a long extension
( may need to connect a bunch of small extension to achieve required length) and 13mm swivel socket.
18. Remove torque Convert bolts
(There should be a hole near the bellhousing to remove the torque convert bolts (make sure to crank the motor in order to reach all the bolts))
19. Once torque converter has been unbolted proceed with removing automatic transmission from engine by removing the remaining bellhousing bolts
20. Slowly remove transmission from car.
21. While removing trans, have a friend or another person or you, whichever go ahead and remove the driveshaft rear end from the diff
(50mm axel nut wrench)
22. Once removed, replace driveshaft insert nut, if you plan on doing that seal if not go ahead and remove old driveshaft and rebuild second half with manual driveshaft piece, or go ahead and replace the whole shaft with the manual one if you went that route.
23. Fill transmission with fluid if you haven't already done so.
24. Route hose for clutch line through firewall, cut nipple to break reservoir
(be sure to drain a little fluid out of the reservoir, so you don't spill break fluid when cutting the nipple for the clutch line off as it's location is near the bottom of the reservoir.
25. Removal automatic flywheel from engine.
26. Install manual single or dual mass flywheel to engine with pilot bearing
(Be sure to use Red thread locker on these bolts!!)
27. Install clutch and pressure plate using alignment tool
28.
Pictures:
View post on imgur.com
Thanks everyone and by all means feel free to add in any information regarding this project, I will add in your suggestions and info to the post as I read them. 
r:r:r:r:
UPDATES:
*Update 12-21-2015: Added Part numbers, and Links to diagrams with label what which item it is in the diagram, colored links blue for better noticing*
*Update 12-28-2015: Made some changes to the thread: Took away some of the color, also changed from fonts and bolded a few titles, added a key, and standardized a font size for easier reading. Picked up the Transmission with hydraulic lines and slave cylinder, drive shaft with giubo, flywheel, shifter assembly, mounting hardware for transmission. Saving some cash for now, so will update thread within a few weeks, I will also start adding pictures to an imgur.com album and linking the relevant pictures when need be*
*Update 1-11-2016: Added in some steps to the DIY, haven't gotten much chance to work on the thread have been busy with work lately. I will add more instructions as I get the chance, as well as pictures of the electrical wiring diagram and what needs to be wired.*
*Update 2-14-2016: Been a while since I last updated this, just received a good amount of money and manual swap is back on track. Got all the rest of the parts, after doing some research I decided to go with manual harness instead of wiring as there are some proprietary connectors involved. You can still go this route, it just won’t look as clean and will make it a little harder if you aren’t so keen on wiring. I will still link the diagrams required for the wiring. I also decided to go with a Spec Stage 1 clutch with a Spec Single Mass Aluminum Flywheel. Figured I might as well put something nice in here rather than the used clutch and dual mass I received with the transmission. There are a lot of little bolts and bits that need to be obtained. Look at the realoem diagrams for each of the items to obtain the part number and cross-reference the number on ecstuning or another part site.
*Update 2-24-2016: All the remaining parts will arrive this week and beginning of next. Plan on doing the manual swap on March 5. Found out some more information, I will create a "Tips" section for the little things i've discovered as i've been moving along with the project. Added screenshots of my ECStuning order for all the little bits you'll need. Added pictures as well as the electrical diagram (go to tips section). Also added for instructions and verified the prior information is still correct. Thanks!
*Update 3-4-2016: Proceeding with manual swap tomorrow, got all the information I need. Also got the fittings I need and caps to plug those coolant hoses once atf cooler is removed. Got the coding down via my laptop using windows XP virtual machine and usb to obd 2 can + cable.
*Update 3-14-2016: Swap is currently delayed as one of the buddies helping me with the swap cannot get a saturday off currently, aiming for this weekend for the swap if all goes well, found additional hole for clutch line from master to slave going underneath the carpet.
*Update 4/4/2016: Started the swap last weekend, ran into a few things i'd like to make note of here for future reference: 1 the driveshaft to diff nut actually required another piece to a larger nut holding the driveshaft nut to the diff (I will upload pics of this). Also make sure to get a flywheel holder, didn't think of this. Will be needed to torque down the flywheel. also biggest surprise was when we got stuck on the pilot bearing shaft as I didn't realize this piece is actually pressed into the stock dual mass, because I was a little confused about the pilot bearing and where it inserted...not a lot of information on that. Did find a thread showing the difference between the N54 (pilot bearing inside of input shaft of trans) and the N55 (pilot bearing inside of flywheel) be sure that your flywheel comes with this shaft, and I could not find it anywhere else to be purchased separately. It was supposed to come with the SMFW conversion, but didn't...luckily my friend convinced me to buy the old DMFW off the guy I got the trans from, so I had that piece. I will upload some pics this week and next. Me and 2 of my friends got the automatic out pretty quick (about 3 hours or so). I will continue the swap next week. Just need to install clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, wire clutch switch module, run slave line, add brakefluid, add coolant, bleed brakes, and do waterpump flush procedure. Afterwards code the car,and if it starts with the clutch pressed in we would at that point have ourselves a manual 335i!! Wish me luck
