More updates guys! Yes, progress is slowing down, but that's for good reason. 90% of the swap is easy - Installation, mounting, welding, placement, peripherals. Sure, that isn't that hard. Heck, people do demo of the donor car in a day and think they're half way done with the project.
The real kicker is the fine tune adjustments to ensure that the swap ACTUALLY WORKS. That means, engine codes, passing emissions, removing rattles, shakes, vibrations, idiot lights, and getting everything to "play" together effectively. That's what REALLY takes the time.
So without any further adue (Spelling?), I provide updated status. I was wiring up the X20 port for the basic signals required for the chassis to interact with the engine. This includes
Fuel Pump
Switched Power
Start Wire
Oil Pressure
Coolant Temp wires
A/C Compressor Signal
So I cleaned things up a bit
Then I started the engine so many times I lost count if I were to count by hundreds. I am now going through all of the error codes and after the car runs, I find that the engine gets into limp mode. Remember that for now, I have a CAS/DME setup, meaning that the DME requires CAS to start. Wiring between the 2 are shown below for the E92 335i (2010).
First Power: Pins 1, 8, 19, 21, 34
Second, Grounds: Pins 12, 25
Third, the 3 signal pins to X60001
-Pin 30 (WS) goes to X60001 Pin 15 (PA_BUS)
-Pin 28 (SW/GN) goes to X60001 Pin 2 (S_START)
-Pin 7 (GN/WS) goes to X60001 22 (15_ZRS)
Starter: Pin 22 (thick)
But I still get error codes. Tons of comm codes. But none of them really cause an issue with either OBD or engine performance. There is one however that causes limp mode, and that is a power class mismatch, code 2FA4. Here are the error codes I get after running the engine for at least 60 seconds.
i realized that the car runs flawlessly for the first 45-60 seconds, until this 2FA4 code comes up. This video below sums up my experience and how the car works after I key-cycle.
What I discovered after idling the engine was that after 60 seconds that 2FA4 code comes up, If I reset the code in real time, the car gets out of limp mode until the code comes back, predictably 60 seconds later. So me and my buddy decided to partner up and invent an arduino mega controlled CANShield board that automatically sends out the 6F1 PT_CAN ArbID that resets the engine DTC's every aaaaaaah, 20 seconds or so? This effectively prevents the car from ever going into limp mode.
Rest assured that this is not the final solution. but rather a band aid for me to drive the car and work out any other drivability issues.
The final solution will be Kassel Performance flashed DME. They have been working diligently with us to come up with a solution for MSD81 and remove EWS4 and CAS3 from the system. This has proven to be more complicated and more of a challenge than originally anticipated.
So here is the automatic code resetting arduino tool:
It basically taps into the PT_CAN bus. There is a terminating 120 ohm resistor already at the OBD Port and at the EKPS, so you may put anything else into the PT_CAN 500kbps line and we decided to inject into the backbone with this resetter tool. We have a discrete ground signal hooked up to a rocker switch so that we can turn off the auto code resetting function at any time if we suspect a real code and problem with the engine.
So I moved on to get coolant temp in the dash and decided to replace the existing 2 wire sensor and use the 4 wire coolant temp sensor. 2 wires go to the DME as originally intended and 2 wires go to the cluster.
Kassel Performance makes a harness that adapts the new 4 wire switch and makes it plug and play. Very convenient, But my setup was slightly different because I snaked the 2 wires in the engine harness (GE and GN) for cluster sense.
Finally, I moved on to the muffler. Removed the stock E36 M3 muffler and tried replacing with straight pipes, but it was too loud, so we decided to go with 2.5" single in/out resonators, 2x of them. Worked out amazingly as you can hopefully watch in the latest video.
Installed the dual resonators in place of the big heavy muffler:
Dual 3" Tips to be trimmed and painted black:
And finally finally, I got the engine bay sorted out and completed the air intake scheme. hope you like.
Hey guys, if you were ever interested, I am also nearing the end of my E30 S62 "life after people" restoration series. It's a 10 video series of how I resurrected my own build from years back and got it back to current standard by making some standard and not-so standard replacements on the car! Thanks!
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...TzU2no8EvXGz8x