Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-y
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmatre
So you're implying that my post is unbelievable, because I told the OP where he could get Cryo-treated rotors?
I used to race a Gen.I Acura Integra (fat, heavy, Honda Civic with a twin-cam).
Before finding the cryo-treated rotors I would go through a couple of sets of rotors in a weekend. After that - a couple of seasons on a set.
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I know it's not related to the OP's problem, but my experience with the 10.3" integra rotors (and most other honda rotor), was that they warped very easily if your lug nuts weren't torqued properly. I had a GSR daily driver for 11 years, and also tracked EG and EF Civics with B-series motors and integra front brakes. I used to get the cheap $16 rotors all the time, and they'd last 8-10 track days easily. They'd even turn purple around the hub from getting so hot, and I never had warping issues. The only time I had an issue was when my lug nuts were over tightened. Then they'd warp within a couple of days of street driving, or like one session on the track.
85 ft/lbs for lyFe.  |
It may have been the weight of the Integra, but I chased the heat problem all around the front end.
PFC Reds cured the fade of the original pads, then the rotors would warp after a couple of good stops. Cryo rotors solved that, then the fluid boiled. SuperBlue cured that, but it would still boil without a proper cool down lap.
Rubber hose softening (spongy pedal) was the next issue, solved with stainless braided line. Final victim was wheel bearings - one set per season.
To much car (2470 without driver) and not enough brake. Worked fine for auto-x & spirited street driving, but was barely up to the task for SS/IT duty.