Quote:
Originally Posted by melloww22
Just installed M3 lower and upper control arms today.
Many thanks to OP.
I used a quickjack, and all the rest of the tools needed from OP's post.
Even without alignment my car feels good. The wheel vibration is gone, and turning feels smoother. It is for sure not as stiff steering as the non M3 wishbones. But this is due to the m3 having ball joints at each end where the non m3 has one ball joint at the outboard end and a rubber bushing at the inboard end.
The interesting part in the entire post is the torque of 122. How did everyone tighten the outboard ends ball joint bolt and nut at torque specs?
Or did you just tighten until your muscles start hurting... ?
for alignment specs do I tell the guy to use m3 specs?
I will be pulling the pins tomorrow to maximize negative camber
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Yeah, i second that, i tried torqueing the two bolts on the hub using the t40 and an open ratchet, snapped two at around 80lbs. Eventually i used the open ratchet while using a 3rd t40 to prevent spinning but maybe got another 1/4 turn if that. I have no way getting even in the neighborhood of 100, let alone 120. I will take it in for an alignment nearby and have them cinch it down.
Hopefully this pays off, i found the first side to be a total pita but cut down the duration to about a 1/4 of the time on the second set.
Couple of takeaways:
1. To get the wishbone bolt out of the subframe, i removed the connection at the hub to take the tension off the bushing at the subframe, jacked the hub up so the tie rod was near level and pushed the boot on the rack out of the way.
2. I was a little freaked when the t40s snapped off but they came out pretty easily even though they where below the waterline: i jostled them with a drill bit by hand and then used scotch tape to fish them out.