Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan stewart
Is that your trailer lights harness coming out of the hatch? What controller are you using? My invisihitch is awesome save for the wiring. Its got the 4 pin mount on it so that is convenient but the controls are basically relays you tap into the stock wiring for and the running lights one DOES NOT LIKE the fact the voltage ramps up and down, it buzzes horribly when the lights are turning on and off. It was so bad I installed a switch below the trunk floor to control the parking lights portion (brakes and turns work fine, its just those running/parking lights).
Id love to find a better way of controlling the trailer lights.
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yes
It's a tekonsha HD modulite unit mounted behind he amp bracket and powered using the cargo power point. Which is nice because it turns off when the car is parked and you avoid the parasitic draw. It's also a fused circuit already, so I didn't use the fuse holder. It makes for a tidy install.
I couldn't bear t taps visible everytime I opened the compartment, so hard spliced in at a wire clamp.
Only wire I had to run across the car was right turn signal, and I just hid it under the tailgate sill plastic piece. If you pp out the latch surround you don't even have to pull the plastics.
Works, doesn't freak out the car, trailer lights get 14V. It's completely solid state and potted, it makes no noise.
when not in use the trailer wiring fits nicely in the compartment in that open slit between the tail light and the plastic tray. I just open the door, grab the wire and then close the door and run it under the cargo mat to the center of the rear hatch.
kit was very high quality, i've never had a bad experience with a tekonsha product. My old yoyager brake controller (RIP) lasted nearly 25 years and was in like 4 different trucks. Got replaced with a P3.
edit:
I like having the cable inside when not in use as it keeps the connector pristine. one less thing to cause the inevitable trailer light problem.
here's the kit i ordered. You'll end up with a bunch of leftover real nice 10ga autmotive wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-1191...ps%2C92&sr=8-2
If you're planning on cut/splice/power point install I would save the money and just buy the bare unit. You're not going to use most of it anyway. You'll need like 2 feet of wire for the positive wire. Everything else reaches using the box's pigtail. I see no reason you couldn't just butt splice this right into your existing install and avoid it all. The regulr modulite HD would work and is half the price, but the plus unit has integrated circuit breakers and the like. I wanted maximum protection for the car.