Quote:
Originally Posted by Needler56
Just replaced the rear passenger regulator at 119K. Some reminders: Peel back the foam vapor barrier very carefully while cutting away at the butyl tape as the foam can rip very easily. Dismount the bracket first so that you can get to the top screw of the pulley plate as it's behind the door frame. Great DIY!
|
Bumping this topic- good writeup OP!
This is an incredibly easy job - less than an hour taking your time. You can get away with non-OEM pieces here as even the OEM regulators are exactly the same part materials and the issue is design, not quality. I went with ECS tuning's $50 model. (Why they use flimsy plastic for the green piece holding the window is beyond me?). Try not to handle the regulator wire area excessively as there is a thin film of white grease on it that is required to keep the assembly free flowing.
I'll second the mention that the one bolt on the top of the window motor that is difficult to reach....I actually ended up bending a bit of that metal to obtain better access - it wont hurt the functionality, and its covered by the panel, so no harm, no foul there.
I saw someone above mentioned T-15 and T-25 sizes are needed? Nope, t's just a T-20 as the OP notes.... (you can get a cheap torx set at walmart <$10) IDK if the fronts are different?
You may also encounter the window acting funny upon replacement - not going all the way up or down on a single long window up/down pull/push. There are threads
: stating you need to do a reset or up/down hold procedure. In my case, I just needed to cycle starting/stopping the car a few times and it went back to normal. I believe the manual also covers this.
One final tip - snag a few extra trim anchors for the door panel when you buy the regulator. My panel had a few brittle ones I was able to replace while I was in there. Any auto parts store carries these too - they are generic and most work across brands. No one likes phantom rattles!
Again, great info on this DIY section! Thanks to my fellow users.
-PW