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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Busted bolt for sway bar - What to do?
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07-06-2017, 09:16 AM | #45 |
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This thread got me curious so I looked up the torque spec on the sway bar bracket nuts and it's only 16 ftlb. I'm surprised my studs haven't broken yet...
Also, the end link nuts are 43 ftlb. |
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07-09-2017, 10:23 PM | #46 |
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I removed front sway bar today. There was very little torque from the factory. I will go real easy when the M3 bar goes in.
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07-11-2017, 11:29 AM | #47 | |
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My repair was a lot more gash compared the bloke above. But I got a bolt and nut and after much swearing bolted it. If its the hole nearer the back of the car like me then it was a PITA. But a ratchet wrench instead of a normal wrench made all the difference.
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07-11-2017, 11:31 PM | #48 |
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With a needed torque of only 16 lb-ft, I was nary going to trust my lb-ft range 1/2" drive Craftsman clicker. They just don't do well down that low in there range. I think 20 is the minimum anyway. I have 3/8" drive in-lb range Craftsman clicker type that goes up to 250 in-lb. 16 lb-ft converts to 192 in-lb. So, I tried the smaller torque wrench today. I went reeeaaalll easy with it. I never got it to click but did not go very hard at all. I know the rubber bushings are compressing but am paranoid to become another statistic in this thread.
Should I go get a beam type T-wrench? |
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07-12-2017, 07:08 PM | #49 | |
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07-27-2017, 06:15 AM | #50 | |
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Meant to take photos, but of course didn't. Turned out really, really well in the end. I'll try to remember to take some shots next time I've got her up on a lift; I have to drop the oil pan next time out anyway so that sway bar will definitely be coming off :/ Oh, and that seemingly swaged-in portion mentioned earlier is just the head of the press-fit stud; you can see on the other side the "scar" on the sheet aluminum from the stud press. That seemingly got pressed into that bit of sheet aluminum much like studs get pressed into hubs, and then that was all welded onto the rest of the subframe. I think the rivnut approach here is likely the most structurally sound solution available for this problem, bar none. I'm really happy with the results. |
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07-27-2017, 06:39 AM | #51 | |
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Instead of then bolting the bushing bracket in, I got one of these off of McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/#99067a113/=18ofn23 I may have actually been able to get away with using the 25mm instead of the 50mm, in retrospect. I screwed that sucker as far in as it would go, I think, with that contamination-resistant orange-red "red" Loctite (because I'm an overkill kind of guy) and it still protruded just a slight bit more than the other stud. I didn't mind; to me having it screw in until it hit the other bit of aluminum made it feel more secure somehow, and outside of the slightly greater length you can barely even tell that area was worked on. (More overkill: I also smeared some JB Weld onto the outside of that rivnut before pressing it in. Why not, right?) |
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08-03-2017, 06:33 PM | #52 | |
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OP glad you got this fixed! Also convenient that bmw dealers carry it because i don think a hardware store would have that, esp in a Metric Thread. I've used similar products at work, fastening electrical component's to various surfaces. Amazing how well they work. |
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07-21-2020, 09:44 AM | #53 |
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This is what the forums are all about! Just had this happen to me, just on the other side, and was able to punch out the broken stud for a hex head cap screw and nut. Thought for sure my car would be down for weeks after it happened this past Sunday but thanks to threads like this I took my car out this morning for a nice sunrise drive. Thank you guys!
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01-04-2021, 10:56 PM | #54 |
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01-05-2021, 10:11 AM | #55 | |
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I'm thinking I'm going to have to remove the sway bar & bushings from the metal casing. Then cut away most of the metal casing away (it will be bent up by this point trying to get the bushing out) with a set of tin snips, dremmel, or sawzall. I'll then have to cut off both bolts, punch them out & install the blind rivet nut. |
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12-18-2022, 12:53 PM | #58 |
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I believe you can only do a regular bolt and nut on the 2 stud closer to the rear. The front studs aren't easily accessible from the top unless you drop the subframe.
I had same issue recently i used a regular nutsert and a double threaded m8 stud instead . |
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01-04-2023, 04:50 PM | #59 | |
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UPDATE: looks like my pix didn’t go through so uploaded to this album: https://www.e90post.com/forums/album.php?albumid=20094 Used a bolt and nut from a mini bike engine mount I had laying around which fit perfectly into the wrench. Last edited by Fishspeaker; 01-14-2023 at 03:33 PM.. Reason: Photo updates |
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02-09-2023, 09:21 AM | #60 | |
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The Bently manual lists two torque specs. I when with the higher spec and found out the hard way that I was wrong. I broke the stud that had more access so i just threw a nut on the back and a bolt from the bolt bin. |
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02-03-2024, 10:55 PM | #61 |
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I've been a long time lurker and this forum has helped me so many times that I had to finally make an account to thank OP and others for sharing their experiences and info. Between the various forums and youtube, I don't know how much money I've saved on both my cars because of all the people willing to seek and share info. It's a beautiful thing
I have hope again lol I've finally been trying to do some of my own work on my e92 328 and had the same issue of overtorqueing that front bracket nut and broke the stud. I thought it was hopeless so I called my cousin's mechanic to see if he could bail me out, but he was more concerned with getting the stud itself out. That part was easy and came out with a few good taps of a hammer. Ordered that blind rivet and can't wait to try this! |
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05-23-2024, 08:05 PM | #62 | |
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Can someone explain this to me a little more in detail? How does the blind river secure since you don’t have room to wedge a nut in there? Also, it’s only threaded on inside so do you just punch it in where the previous stud is taken out of? |
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