[hoyer801]

About 6 weeks ago, I was in a small fender-bender in my 2009 BMW 328i. All damage was cosmetic (hood, fender, bumper cover) except for the left front headlight (which still worked!) but was cracked, but because of the age of the car and the cost of repairs, they decided to total it. I accepted the check and decided to fix it myself.

Because of cold weather, darkness, and my work schedule, repairs have gone slowly. About 3 weeks ago, I started the car up while it had no fender or bumper and a missing headlight just so I could move it to a different parking space. Everything worked just fine. I started it back up and moved it back to my carport the next day.

Yesterday, after finally completing all the repairs, I tried to start it. It turned over once and then immediately stopped. After that, it would turn very, very slowly.

I took the battery to Advance Auto parts. I purchased this battery new (platinum model) about 2-3 years ago. They tested the battery and it was a little low, but otherwise fine.

When I tested it in INPA, I get a ton of faults.




Last night when I was reading the codes, you could tell the battery was actively draining. Lights started appearing, clicking noises. The windshield wipers started operating on their own, and eventually, the whole thing just went dark, leaving my key stuck. I put a charger on the battery and was able to get my key out.

I let it charge overnight, same problem. I thought maybe a short in the new headlight assemblies could be causing the issue (I replaced both with aftermarket lights so they matched), so I disconnected them both as well as the fog lights (the only electrical stuff I touched that I can think of). No change.

I knew I had a corroded ground strap and already had the part, so I went ahead and replaced that, but that didn't fix it either.

If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be grateful to hear them.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by hoyer801

... 2009 BMW 328i... after finally completing all the repairs, I tried to start it. It turned over once and then immediately stopped. After that, it would turn very, very slowly. I took the battery to Advance Auto parts. I purchased this battery new (platinum model) about 2-3 years ago. They tested the battery and it was a little low, but otherwise fine. When I tested it in INPA, I get a ton of faults...
[What you attached is 3 partial ScreenPrints (without header including VIN & Model info) of Fault Memory List from ISTA, NOT INPA.]
Last night when I was reading the codes, you could tell the battery was actively draining. [Having Ignition ON (to read codes) does that ;-)] I put a charger on the battery and was able to get my key out. I let it charge overnight, same problem. I thought [/GUESSED ] maybe a short in the new headlight assemblies could be causing the issue (I replaced both with aftermarket lights so they matched), so I disconnected them both as well as the fog lights (the only electrical stuff I touched that I can think of). No change.
I knew I had a corroded ground strap and already had the part, so I went ahead and replaced that, but that didn't fix it either. [Bad Ground Strap would NOT cause "Quiescent Draw" or battery discharge when "Asleep".]
If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be grateful to hear them.

Well "Steny" (yes, I jest ;-), here are my suggestions:

1) Use a cheap DMM (Digital Multimeter) to read voltage at Jumpstart terminals under the hood, and at battery Posts in trunk; report findings; Don't have DMM? See cheapest available:
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter

2) If battery post voltage reads > 12.0V, disconnect Negative Battery Terminal (to prevent damage to IBS and to prevent any current from flowing to any component or system, and attach battery charger at 4- or 6-Amp charge rate;

3) After charging in that fashion for ~ 4 hours, disconnect charger, wait 30 minutes (for "surface charge" to subside), and then measure/report voltage at battery posts. If >12.0V, reconnect (-) Battery Terminal and attempt Starting engine.

4) If engine starts, measure/report voltage at Jumpstart Terminals, and also Battery Posts. This is a test of Alternator Output with engine running. If engine does NOT start, please report, in DETAIL, what happened, or what did NOT happen as it should.

5) If you have INPA, use INPA > DME > F5 Status > F5 Power Module > F4 PM Info Field 3. That screen shows recent quiescent current (parasitic draw) violations, and Range (mAmps) of draw.

6) Your Fault Memory Screens from ISTA do NOT show any Fault in the DME Module, such as "2DED, DME: Power management, closed-circuit current violation". That code is expected to be saved in DME Fault Memory if there is quiescent current with modules "Asleep". Please view Control Unit Tree, or Control Unit List. See attached pdf for HOW to do that. Please attach ScreenPrint of "Tree". This is to determine if DME is Powered, or if it is connected to JBE (Hub) via PT-CAN bus.

If you have INPA, you can also use:
INPA > Functional Jobs > F2 Identification, to see a list of all functioning Modules or Control Units in your vehicle. INPA/ISTA are very powerful tools and anyone fortunate enough to have them (to BMW's Cha-grin/-frown ;-) should take the time to learn the basics of HOW to use them, at least with Forum Help.
George