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Fault Codes 3100 & 30FF
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05-04-2009, 04:07 AM | #1 |
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Fault Codes 3100 & 30FF
Hi Guys,
Recently my car keeps throwing these codes 3100 & 30FF. They occur when I'm accelerating at around 3000 Rpm. Speed is normally 80km/h when it occurs. I have a JB3 1.2 which I am running on Map 0(Stock) and the code still gets thrown. I also have downpipes, an I/C, O2 Sims and a CAI. I tried to do the Wastegate test by reving the car to 5K on a standstill but didn't get a Metallic rasping sound. Any idea what might be the issue? Cheers |
05-04-2009, 08:59 AM | #2 |
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Any other mods?
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Last edited by 5soko; 05-04-2009 at 09:54 AM.. |
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05-04-2009, 09:41 AM | #4 |
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Had the same problem, went back to stock DV's and now I have been limp free for 300 miles.
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05-04-2009, 09:50 AM | #6 |
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05-04-2009, 09:58 AM | #7 |
only in it for the torque - awuleth'umshini wami
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What CAI do you have? Had this code on my previous car. Rear clamp was loose in the stock intake system.
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05-04-2009, 10:09 AM | #9 |
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Looks like I will have my workshop check the clamps on the FDV, Stett FMIC and the AFE CAI.
I haven't washed my AFE non-oiled CAI filter since I got it about 5,000 Miles back. You guys think that could be the cause? |
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05-04-2009, 10:12 AM | #10 |
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Which spring colour are you using on your FDVs ?
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05-04-2009, 10:21 AM | #11 |
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Honestly I'm not sure my workshop did the installation. It should be the stock spring. All the mods were working perfectly for close to 6 months before the CEL light issue.
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05-04-2009, 01:46 PM | #12 |
only in it for the torque - awuleth'umshini wami
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No, I had the leak with the stock intake. I am now using BMS dual intake - without problems.
I want to venture another guess that you should check: the exhaust.The problem could be emmission related especially if you running a catless system even with 02 sim. An aftermarket O2 sims is not an exact science and our cars can throw wierd codes when cats are removed. I ran a complete catless system with the Riss Racing sim and I wold occassionally get a CEL and strange codes all looking for the cats!! I mean this jokingly but have the lambda sensors checked just in case. Hope you get the problem fixed soon. Do you have your own code reader/scanner?
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05-05-2009, 08:52 AM | #14 |
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I had the same thing yesterday I went to the dealer and they told me its signs of the fuel pump going but Because I had an after market CAI they said it could be because of that so they just deleted the codes and said if it comes up again we will replace the fuel pump but so far so go no codes.
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05-05-2009, 09:53 AM | #16 |
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Yes...please let us know.
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05-05-2009, 10:55 AM | #17 |
only in it for the torque - awuleth'umshini wami
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awesome yachts
I know this is off topic, but damn...Panoz your car looks amazing!
Love the wheels and quad pipes. Thanks for sharing the pics...and those yachts!...I want the one on the left...
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05-08-2009, 06:48 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
The fact ,it happened in high revs and the boost was struggling between 9-11 psi for some seconds,means that I have a boost leak. The funny thing is that after having the car rolling for a couple KMs the boost was back again. I guess this is due to FDVs and I will through them out of my engine bay soon...but could it be the intake (Injen)?? Is it possible to have this due to lose connection of intake or the boost drop indicates its clearly a DV case? I would appreciate any help/idea. I appreciate your kind comments.Thanks
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05-08-2009, 07:06 PM | #20 |
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Hi Panoz,
Sorry for being tardy with my replies. But I was hoping to get more mileage before commenting. I didn't know you had similar issues. Although my problems presented itself at lower RPMs (3K onwards). I removed the FDV and replaced it back with stock. Got the technician to check all vacuum hoses and all the hoses didn't have any issues. I've done about 190KM since the fix without a CEL *fingers crossed*. So I guess the problem is the Forged Diverter Valve. I have no idea what's wrong with it though. Hope you find a solution for yours soon. Cheers |
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05-08-2009, 07:12 PM | #21 |
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Get your intercooler, chargepipe, and DVs checked for leaks.
Or if you want, just take the car to a good shop and ask them to do a leak test for the car, they should be able to locate the leak easily and quickly. I think Sniz once posted a DIY on how to do the leak test, but he had access to a lift and some other equipment that you'll need to be able to do it.
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05-09-2009, 10:02 AM | #22 |
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Ok cheerz
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