[watchout-everyone]

Hello,

I believe the socket size or wheel nut is either 17 or 18 depending on a car or wheel.

Anyway, I was curious which one you guys use. I rarely see people mentioning 1/2 breaker bar in any settings but maybe it's only for the wheel nut? People say 18 is the perfect limit for 3/8 but i wanted to make sure.

[BRG_N54]

Whatever is easiest. For me, being an old guy, I always reach for the half incher!

[mainbearing]

Use 1/2". 18" is sufficient and less cumbersome (compared to the 25").

3/8" is for smaller nuts and bolts and lower torques. I would not use 3/8" on lugs and most suspension nuts and bolts.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...bar-60818.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...bar-58627.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...het-59847.html

[The Nightman]

1/2". A torque wrench in that range is also going to be 1/2" drive so you'll need the 1/2" socket anyway.

[oVeRdOsE.]

simply something that will cover the safe torque and that I can remove the wheel on the side of the road with ease on a late, quiet and cold night.

(because even if I have plug for a flat tire, the rear one I need to remove it to plug it)

[tcphoto]

After discovering a tire shop overtorqued wheel bolts, I bought a 1/2" breaker bar and keep it in my trunk under the shelf.

[StradaRedlands]

1/2 and one of these:

[watchout-everyone]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

Use 1/2". 18" is sufficient and less cumbersome (compared to the 25").

3/8" is for smaller nuts and bolts and lower torques. I would not use 3/8" on lugs and most suspension nuts and bolts.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...bar-60818.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...bar-58627.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...het-59847.html

Hello

I have the last 1/2 inch extendable rachet. Do I need the 18 inch breaker bar if I have this ratchet already?

[mainbearing]

If you already have a 1/2"-drive extendable ratchet then no need for a breaker bar. My 1/2" extendable ratchet (Harbor Freight) is my go-to for working with this torque range.

I do not remember needing any torque higher than about 120-130 lb/ft for many of the things I worked on (eg., suspension components), and those were fine with my trusty HFT extendable ratchet.

Looking at the HFT website I do not see a max torque rating for both the solid breaker bar and the extendable ratchet.

The ratcheting mechanism does mean the torque rating would be lower than a similarly sized breaker bar.

I think below say 150 lb/ft the 1/2"-drive, 18"-long extendable should be fine. Above that I would use a 25" long breaker bar. And above 250 lb/ft that is probably best with a 3/4"-drive breaker bar (rather than a cheater pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar).

And yes always wear safety glasses.

Originally Posted by watchout-everyone

Hello

I have the last 1/2 inch extendable rachet. Do I need the 18 inch breaker bar if I have this ratchet already?

[mainbearing]

BTW, I also did not see the torque ratings for many of Amazon's listings. Anyway, Tekton does have a useful chart regarding max torque rating and drive size. This does not consider things like ratchet or extension mechanisms, etc.

Leave some margin from the maximum number in any case.

[watchout-everyone]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

BTW, I also did not see the torque ratings for many of Amazon's listings. Anyway, Tekton does have a useful chart regarding max torque rating and drive size. This does not consider things like ratchet or extension mechanisms, etc.

Leave some margin from the maximum number in any case.

Thank you very much. I ordered 18mm and 17mm 1/2 socket for my ratchet.

So excited now. Once all my parts arrived this or next week, I am going to start right away and hopefully i can finish within 2 days.

- Oil pan
- Engine mount + transmission mount
- two coolant hoses
- some bushing (forgot its name but it goes onto the front of the subframe)

[Leucosticte]

After having a cheap 3/8ths breaker bar snap on me when I was trying to loosen the wheel bolts on my parents x3 I use a 1/2 breaker bar with an impact socket for wheel bolts now lol.

[lowrydr310]

Do you use 3/8 or 1/2 breaker bar to unloosen or take out your wheel?

Neither. The best fathers day gift I ever bought myself was a Milwaukee M12 Stubby 1/2 drive impact wrench, works great to loosen everything.

1/2" drive torque wrench to put them back though.

[gbalthrop]

"A man's got to know his limitations": Dirty Harry/Clint Eastwood. If that man is working on a vehicle, he should ALSO know his "Tools' Limitations". Here's a CHEAP HFT 1/2" Clicker Torque Wrench I have used to remove and properly torque wheel lugs on many different cars for ~ 20 years ($22):
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-63882.html

OP's question relates to "Breaker Bars". That suggests to us "Old Guys" that the "Young Farts" do NOT understand the concept and use of IMPACT vs "Dead Pull"/NO Impact. A quick examination of the current "Hits" when searching "Breaker Bar" suggests the Chinese suppliers, or at least the Americanos that sell those products on HFT & Amazon don't get "Impact".

BELOW is an example of the "OLD-Style" (Cheap) Breaker Bar. NOTE there is NO swivel joint to reduce the "Impact" provided by striking the sliding rod with a hand-sledge (using only light to moderate REPEATED impact with hammer). The CONCEPT of impact is to incrementally break loose corroded/ "stuck" fasteners, WITHOUT either breaking your "Breaker Bar", or the Bolt/ Stud. Transfer of the "IMPACT" provided by the hand sledge or Impact Wrench to the stuck fastener is KEY. ANY slop or looseness in the "Breaker Bar" reduces the effectiveness of the impact.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Zyklop-T...%2C70&sr=1-115

If you want the cheapest available (AFAIK) "IMPACT Socket" set for 1/2" or 3/8" drive, SAE & Metric, including 17mm or 18mm, with adapters, here is a 37-piece set, in carrying case, for $37, also from HFT, also used by me with air impact wrench for ~ 20 years. NONE of this stuff has broken, and will "Outlive" me.
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...ece-68011.html

Of course if you use an impact wrench, either Air-Driven, or Electric, or provide impact via breaker bar, steel pipe, and BFH or hand sledge, you need an "Impact Socket". You can get a single socket locally, or can order a complete set such as linked above for little more than NAPA wants for ONE impact socket, and save MANY trips to store.

You can spend $$$ on brand-name tools, or get up to 10x as many tools for same money from HFT or Amazon. Buy NOW before new tariffs are enacted on items "Hecho en China".

I have used the $22 Torque wrench linked above on "OVER-torqued" wheel lugs without issue. That is to include lugs mindlessly installed by shops or DPO's with Impact Wrench, resulting in up to TWICE the 89 Ft-Lb lug torque spec for original 16" wheels with 17mm wheel bolts.

If you have a Garage, you may want to move beyond those basics and get Air Tools, such as the HFT "Earthquake" Air Impact wrench. That requires a compressor with air tank. Bear in mind that what is needed/ best in a garage is ONE thing. What is needed for a Roadside Flat depends on MANY things NOT stated in this thread: Tire Type (RSC Runflat vs. "Go Flat"); how many tires are flat and nature/ location of damage on tire; what other tools/ spares are carried.

I personally have NEVER had a roadside flat, have RunFlat (RSC) tires, carry Power-socket input Air Pump, tire pressure gauge, plug kit & tarp (to lie on ground), LED Lights, etc. I do NOT carry a jack, spare wheel/tire or wrench capable of removing road wheel.

If I ever had tread puncture causing loss of tire pressure while away from my garage, I would simply: use pressure gauge & the light/tarp to evaluate the Location & Nature of the damage causing leak; attempt to restore proper air pressure (to prevent damage to RunFlat by running it under-inflated), try to plug it if possible, and in worst-case scenario, drive home on under-inflated RunFlat. I keep a similar 5th wheel with RunFlat tire in my garage.

MOST of my driving is within 20 to 30 miles of my garage. This approach will NOT work in some instances on Road-Trips. Tire shops and garages are usually within 50 miles though. Do you carry spare Fuel Pump/ Coolant Pump, and tools to change them? You can be "All-Tooled-Up" for one contemplated component failure/ emergency, but totally UN-prepared for others.

How many of you Rotate your Tires or remove Road wheels every 6 to 12 Months? Do you wire-brush the "Wheel-Centric" hubs and wheel center holes? Do you use any type of anti-seize on them? HOW would you get a "Seized" wheel off the hub after removing lugs if tire were flat? HINT: Preferred method with properly-inflated tire is to loosen wheel bolts 1/2 turn and drive in "figure-8" at ~ 5 mph, such as in cul de sac (easy for me since I live off cul de sac ;-) until you feel a "pop" as wheel breaks free of hub.
The devil is ALWAYS in the DETAILS. You know: those things NOBODY wants to take time to contemplate. Now WHERE is that TV Remote??
George

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

well said ghalthrop!

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

the "trained professionals" that "serviced" my 2013 335is prior to its sale GROTESQUELY over-tightened a few of the wheel lug bolts to the extent that the 1/2 in drive socket cracked and rounded off one of the lug bolts....went and purchased an impact rated socket and was able to carefully tap said socket on wheel bolt and even the 1/2 in breaker bar barely loosened said wheel bolt....purchased an OEM lug bolt from local BMW stealership.

it just doesn't seem possible that people are paid and with ZERO experience/training are permitted to perform "service".

[M-technik-3]

If I'm in my garage it's pneumatic and if I'm outside its battery. My choice is Milwaukee but everyone has his/her personal choice.

[Tambohamilton]

My 3/8" torque wrench tops out at 112Nm. Wheel nuts are 120Nm. That wouldn't stop me from using it to loosen them (one way torque wrench), but it's useless for tightening them. I have no qualms about the strength of the tool and it's a plenty long enough lever...just not really practical compared with either of the 1/2" ones I have.

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

At this point in history any serious DIY'er should invest in a decent set of battery powered automotive shop tools. Pick your battery format/manufacturer and build a good tool set that should include at a minimum: a 3/8-drive ratchet, 1/4-drive ratchet, 1/2-drive high-torque impact gun, and a 3/8-drive impact gun, with the appropriate set of impact sockets and drivers (Torx, E-Torx, Hex, etc.)

Don’t forget torque sticks. Best invention ever.

[watchout-everyone]

Thank you all. I have a 3/8 torque wrench but not 1/2 one. I will be buying them asap.

Thankfully i was able to use 1/2 ratchet to get all the nuts out but the wheels won't come off lol. Will try hammering and joe rogan kick

[watchout-everyone]

Gell ya. Joe Rogan kick worked

[krhodes1]

As long as a monkey hasn't put the wheels on, my 3/8" DeWalt 20V impact gun gets wheels off effortlessly. I rarely get out the big-boy 1/2".

They go back on with my trusty 25yo Craftsman 3/8" clicker torque wrench.