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DIY - Replace Water Pump and T-stat, 335xi
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02-08-2015, 06:59 PM | #1 |
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DIY - Replace Water Pump and T-stat, 335xi
I didn't find any "xi" specific DIY on this, so thought I would contribute to the community. This DIY cost me $525 in parts (waterpump, t-stat, aluminum bolts, and 1-gal of coolant). See the attached pdf file. N54, thermostat, E90, water pump.
feel free to PM or post with questions Last edited by ucdbiendog; 02-09-2015 at 11:10 AM.. |
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02-24-2015, 08:41 AM | #3 |
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I was looking for a DIY on the 335xi before I did mine. However, I did do it a little different. I didn't touch anything under the hood except to add coolant when I was done. I also didn't remove the fan, any wheels (car was on ramps) or lining around the wheel. I did remove the steel belly pan to gain access to the back of the pump from under the car.
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2008 335xi - JB5 ISO e50, VFSR catless DP, DCI, VFSR FMIC. Fuel it stage 1, VMR V710s. 407/446 rwhp/rwtq.
2004 Cobra - Basic bolt ons with a tune. 450rwhp/rwtq450. Port coming soon. 2013 X5 50i - muffler delete, xHP tune, ESS tune on the way. 2016 Mustang GT Roush Phase 2 with VMP 767 HP kit. Last edited by beetle6986; 02-24-2015 at 08:46 AM.. |
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02-27-2015, 11:41 AM | #4 | |
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02-27-2015, 12:26 PM | #5 | |
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02-27-2015, 04:29 PM | #6 |
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I followed everything in his PDF document starting at page 8. I put the car up on ramps instead of jack stands. I also removed the steel pan under the back of the engine for access to the back of the water pump (for removing/adding hose clamps). It is a tight squeeze getting the pump in and out between the subframe and the fan housing. But it certainly fit without removing all that stuff in the beginning of the DIY.
I'm not trying to take anything away from his DIY. He obviously spent time putting together a detailed DIY to help other forum members (much appreciated!!). He just spent some additional time removing other items to give himself better access to the water pump location.
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2008 335xi - JB5 ISO e50, VFSR catless DP, DCI, VFSR FMIC. Fuel it stage 1, VMR V710s. 407/446 rwhp/rwtq.
2004 Cobra - Basic bolt ons with a tune. 450rwhp/rwtq450. Port coming soon. 2013 X5 50i - muffler delete, xHP tune, ESS tune on the way. 2016 Mustang GT Roush Phase 2 with VMP 767 HP kit. |
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03-07-2015, 08:00 PM | #8 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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Just did this on my 07 335i. I used the video on Bav Auto. The only thing I did different was take out the fan and inner cooler. This gave me more room to work and I was gonna drain the old anti- freeze any how.
I use Amsoil Coolant cut 50/50 with distilled water and 8oz of their coolant boost per gallon. |
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06-11-2015, 05:56 AM | #9 |
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Just did my '08 335xi. One tip I got gave me the extra room I needed. However, I had access to a lift at an auto hobby shop and that was all I needed.
Really easy actually. Disconnected the left side of the power steering and coolant hoses, dropped the sub-frame, supported it with a screw jack, that gave me all the room I needed. With a few universal joints attached to my ratchets and a long screw driver, was able to disconnect and replace all the parts in no time at all. Since it was my first time, took me 5 hours but, was well worth the time that saved me $1,000.00. Parts cost me $550.00 for the kit; BMW water pump, thermostat, bolts, BMW coolant, distilled water. |
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07-05-2015, 08:53 AM | #10 |
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Unless the Xi is vastly different, that is way more work than it really takes to do a water pump / Tstat on these motors.
I just did mine: - Pull plastic belly pan, easy just a lot of unscrewing. - Pull single nut that holds the passenger side power steering line, to move it out of the way. Cake - Pull 4 nuts for sway bar - about a 1 minute job, let it swing down - Remove hose clamps for all pumps. 6mm and have to move your arm around a bit. Remove two quick disconnects - need a flat head. - Three torx holding the water pump; two are cake to get to, one is totally hidden. Needed a universal joint for that. - Remove connectors to T-stat and water pump - Install is reverse of removal. There is no reason to touch the fan, FMIC or even open the hood (other than to refill the coolant). All easily done on ramps. The job is seriously one pain in the butt bolt and a couple hose clamps that are a pain. That's it. |
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07-09-2015, 09:53 AM | #11 |
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10-09-2015, 05:34 PM | #12 |
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THANK YOU
I want to say thank you and ask if I can post your pdf on other BMW sites. I dove into changing my dead water pump after watching the BavAuto video and researching on-line, but soon found out the 335XI is very different from the other 3-series "e90" cars. I followed your instructions, exactly, and all worked out great!
Also, the new OEM steel bolts that replace the aluminum bolts (holding the pump onto the block) are installed at 20.5 Nm according to a BMW tech. Note- I am not liable for this torque/installation, so beware...but I did install mine at this torque. Thanks again. |
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09-22-2016, 02:27 PM | #13 | |
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as for other comments about taking too much stuff off, perhaps. but when i work on a car, i like to have lots of room to work to make it a) easier and b) less likely to damage something when wiggling parts out of tight spots. to each their own. |
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10-24-2016, 07:11 AM | #14 |
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WOW!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR POSTING/CREATING THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My waterpump or Tstat went out last week and I had been searching do a DIY and all I was able to find were the NON-Xi instructions which I soon found out (The hard way) this weekend that they "ARE" different. Not only that but I also found out that they sent me the wrong size aluminum water pump bolts too. so everything's on hold until the new bolts arrive but now with the help of your DIY I feel more confident in handling this task. And just like you - I rather take my time and take stuff off in order to give me enough "comfortable" room to work in. THANKS AGAIN!!!!
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BSM 13 E93 335i:Mods Pending: Golf Tee Mod, Burger CAI, Burger Cowl Vents -Current Silver 11 E90 335xi:20% Tint, Golf Tee Mod, 17x9 Apex ARC-8, Burger CAI, Burger Cowl Vent -GONE Grey 08 E92 335xi:20% Tint, Dynavin N6 Nav, Golf Tee Mod, 17x9 Apex ARC-8, AFE CAI -GONE |
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10-24-2016, 08:20 AM | #15 |
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I just had to do this as well. My car is Rwd and non turbo so it's a little bit easier but not by much. Took about 5-6 hours and my hands got nicked up pretty good. Only had a few thrown wrenches in the process and alot of cussing . Overall it's worth the savings but I see why the dealer charges so much for labor on this job. I could only imagine having a cv axle and intercooler in the way on top of everything else.
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03-05-2018, 09:47 AM | #16 |
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Thank you so much ucdbiendog. It takes a lot of digging sometimes to find the Xi equivalent procedures for things. That damn sub-frame! One of these days ill stop being a pansy and finally drop it the next time I need to get in there.
Anyways, thanks again. Just did this on Saturday. 325xi N52 133K replaced pump and thermostat. Prep was about 1.5 hours (bottom coolant hose, sway bar, AC cooling line) Job took about 4 hours, then another 1-2 hours of testing, cleaning up my tools, putting the plastic shrouds back in. Here are my notes: - Didnt remove the fan and I dont have an intercooler - Did remove the passenger front wheel and shroud (this allowed me access to the hoses in the back and allowed me to align the hose clamps so i could tighten them from the wheelwell. - Also removed the lower hose to the reservoir, and the one coming from the bottom of the radiator, drivers side. (this hose also connects to the thermostat and once these three snap-type connectors are free the hose can be moved out of the way .. this is needed to bring the sway bar all the way down without putting pressure on that hose) - Did remove the reinforcement plate.. although it was not really necessary, it allowed me access to the hose clamp connecting to the back side of the pump. BEFORE: AFTER: Last edited by Stratty; 03-05-2018 at 09:55 AM.. |
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09-24-2018, 03:03 AM | #18 |
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I have the same question. I’m just trying to remove that fitting to empty the coolant to flush the system. Checkout this video at 11:00.
Last edited by Jeffman; 09-24-2018 at 03:38 AM.. |
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01-01-2019, 05:56 PM | #19 | |
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Took 3 hrs on ramps. Had to file weld splatter on subframe, so I didn’t cut up my hands , |
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04-23-2020, 11:42 AM | #20 |
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I've got about 135k on my 2011 n55 xdrive. I bought it at about 100k miles and have no records if the water pump has been replaced, so I'm planning for this. I heard a couple of you saying the aux fan kicked on more when the pump was on it's way out. Any other symptoms to look for?
Did any of you replace the coolant hoses when doing the pump? I guess i'm used to older american cars where you replace the upper and lower radiator hoses about every 100k. |
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04-27-2020, 09:24 AM | #21 | |
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I never replaced any hoses except for the small one that runs across the top of the radiator to the overflow tank. That one is cheap plastic that hardens over time and then breaks leaving you stranded. I would replace that one if it wasn't already. I just replaced it with small hoses bought at the auto part start rather than buying the cheap plastic part again.
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2008 335xi - JB5 ISO e50, VFSR catless DP, DCI, VFSR FMIC. Fuel it stage 1, VMR V710s. 407/446 rwhp/rwtq.
2004 Cobra - Basic bolt ons with a tune. 450rwhp/rwtq450. Port coming soon. 2013 X5 50i - muffler delete, xHP tune, ESS tune on the way. 2016 Mustang GT Roush Phase 2 with VMP 767 HP kit. |
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04-27-2020, 02:23 PM | #22 | |
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Cool, thanks for letting me know the pre-failure symptoms.
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