[Lochstar8]

I have a 2007 323i e90 with what used to be the base audio system (six total speakers) no Idrive. It now has logic 7 under seat subs, rear door component speakers and the front components as well as the rear shelf coaxials all from an Indavidual audio system out of an e92. This obviously needed new wiring to pretty much every speaker, anyway it’s all powered by an aftermarket amp which I have using the line level or speaker level outputs from the HU (coded to hifi) as inputs for the amp.

Overall very happy with the system but the headunit has a loud hissing which goes away when the headunit is off or at zero volume or when playing through my amps analog inputs rather than through the headunits various audio formats effectively bypassing the headunit. Now my rear deck speakers are still powered off the oem HU and not the amp but I can still here the hissing from those speakers and I didn’t touch any of those wires so I don’t think it’s a result of my added signal wires running to the aftermarket amp causing the hiss.

Anyway my point is I will be swapping my head unit for anouther professional one but this one is out of that same Indavidual audio car I got my speakers from. I know Indavidual uses Most or at least I believe it does but will it still output an analog audio like a hifi headunit or will I have to code it which I can do. Or does it not output anything other than optical/most?.

Basically I’m asking if it will work at all.

Here’s my current HU part number
#65129130046

New one is #65129199389

And I have another question is the EQ in the headunit or in the amp? If that makes any sense.

-Thx

[ctuna]

A Head Unit from a Logic 7 car will have to be coded to output Hi Fi which is a 5 volt differential signal . Does this amp supply all speakers or just some of them ?
There are some articles on setting the software levels through Wert values for pdc in the coding section of the first thing can't cut it .

[Lochstar8]

Originally Posted by ctuna

A Head Unit from a Logic 7 car will have to be coded to output Hi Fi which is a 5 volt differential signal . Does this amp supply all speakers or just some of them ?
There are some articles on setting the software levels through Wert values for pdc in the coding section of the first thing can't cut it .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4b3O_SqMYB4

Thanks for the reply ctuna, My additional amp powers the front and rear door speaker aswell as the under seat subs. But the rear deck speakers are Unamped or still running off the head-units power. But down the line I will be hooking up a Audiotec Fischer MATCH UP 10 DSP to power every speaker in the car but I haven’t got there yet.

I would presume I wouldn’t have any 5v output for the speakers/amp with the new headunit until I code it to Hifi as I guess that the “Indavidual audio” head-unit only outputs MOST, if I’ve understood stood you correctly. I will code the headunit to hifi using NCS expert and additional tools etc.

As for PDC my car doesn’t have PDC so I’ll likely just code that out if possible.

Anyway I’ll make an update to when I have the new headunit plugged in and hopefully working and all that I needed to code to get it working.

But thank you for confirming that it’s likely possible to make it work.

Thanks again ctuna

[ctuna]

I was responding to the PDC thread and accidentally published the info on PDC this one.

[Lochstar8]

Ok update, I didn’t have time to do any coding or anything today BUT I did install the new headunit to see what would happen, and there’s absolutely zero hiss and zero distortion at max volume or any volume. and interestingly enough everything works as it should it plays through all the speakers but the volume was very quite so I had to turn the “aux volume” option too 6 or max but after that everything seemed good even without coding. Now for some reason the CD player does not work I put the cd in and it says error and then spits it back out but other than that very happy.

I will likely still dig into the coding options tomorrow just to see what’s enabled and maybe what I should change but so far a success even without coding to hifi.

It also has the +10/-10 bass and treble options, where previously I only had +/-5 so that’s nice. Although I would like the graphic EQ that I believe is found on logic 7. But I’ll take what I can get for now.

[ctuna]

No graphic eq on non i drive .
If it's working the most I would do with it is read the rad file and see what's enabled before doing anything.

[Lochstar8]

Originally Posted by ctuna

No graphic eq on non i drive .
If it's working the most I would do with it is read the rad file and see what's enabled before doing anything.

Yeah that’s pretty much my plan, although what’s the picture below how would I get something like that?

[ctuna]

non idrive non logic 7 that is

[Lochstar8]

Originally Posted by ctuna

non idrive non logic 7 that is

Oh ok so not an option with what I have?

Ok I have a question, I ended up coding the headunit to the cars desired spec (Hifi) and the volume increased loads meaning I didn’t have to play it near “max” volume. But I found the overall sound quality was quite a bit worse as it seams than the Indavidual or top-hifi codings may have a built in form of signal processing as it sounded more “Surround” if that makes any sense and also directionallity increased lots aswell. Is this true?

I believe that the lowered volume is possibly due to the “Limiters” set for top hifi As opposed to zero limiters for normal Hifi.

C20_LIMITER_F_L
C20_LIMITER_F_R
C20_LIMITER_R_L
C20_LIMITER_R_R
C20_LIMITER_GAIN

Are all enabled for top Hifi / Indavidual and not for Hifi

As for the DSP stuff these coding options seem to have some part to play in that:

M_GROUP_C
l7_dspl_on_hk_amp
l7_dspl_off_hk_amp
*h_a_dspl_on_lear_amp
h_a_dspl_off_lear_amp


I’m also possibly considering using my cars factory CD changer MOST bus for audio output from the head-unit rather than wires, as I’ve found there’s lots of noise/alternator whine coming from my speakers which is likely because I routed all of my passenger side speaker wires right next to all the main power cables (mistake).

[ctuna]

You sure you have logic 7 because the logic 7 amplifier won't work without the fiberoptic output from the head unit and I have never heard different.
The first 6 speaker system you describe is Hi Fi not Top Hi Fi aka Logic 7 .

6 speakers = hi fi or base system.

When the pro head unit is coded to hi fi it has no logic 7 equalizer and should not work with anything but a hi fi amp unless you have a most to analog converter for and aftermarket amp or a actual logic 7 amplifier.

[Lochstar8]

Originally Posted by ctuna

You sure you have logic 7 because the logic 7 amplifier won't work without the fiberoptic output from the head unit and I have never heard different.
The first 6 speaker system you describe is Hi Fi not Top Hi Fi aka Logic 7 .

6 speakers = hi fi or base system.

When the pro head unit is coded to hi fi it has no logic 7 equalizer and should not work with anything but a hi fi amp unless you have a most to analog converter for and aftermarket amp or a actual logic 7 amplifier.

I don’t have logic 7 or Hifi my car came factory with BASE audio (Canadian car) so only 6.5” speakers under the seats and no tweeters and no amp from factory.

• But I’ve added logic 7 under seat subs (powered by my aftermarket amp).
• Added tweeter sails with Indavidual audio tweeters .
• Added in Indavidual audio mids up front (powered by my amp).
• Added rear door cards with places for speakers which now have the individual audio component speaker (mid and tweeter from an e92). And also Powered by my amp.
• Added individual audio coaxials for rear shelf speakers. (Still powered by my head-unit.

That’s all powered (except the rear shelf) by a 4 channel Alpine MRV-F300 AMP. 2 channels for the under seat subs and 2 channels for the front and rear door Mids and tweeters wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load at my aftermarket amp.

The only thing “stock” with my sound system is the head-unit/radio.

But my car came factory with the “prewiring” option for a CD charger (works on MOST) aswell as telecommunications and Bluetooth modules. But I’ve never installed any of that despite the car being wired for it. So my thinking is to use the MOST output from the headunit to feed through the factory Pre wired CD changer (Most) lines to send my signal to my aftermarket amp rather than copper wiring. Because my system has lots of Alternator whine from my lack of intelligence running my copper signal wires right inline with the cars main power cables.

I will obviously need a most converter for this as you mentioned.

As for me not having to code the head-unit for it to work with my custom Hifi style harness, I guess the head-unit outputs both optical (most) and 5v differential signal. Because if it only outputs most then I would get ZERO signal at my amp but that’s not the case.
Although you would think it would only output MOST as the headunit is coded and came out of a Indavidual audio system which uses MOST not 5v.

So no logic 7 here.

[ctuna]

Buy a Mr12volt SD/usb bluetooth phone bluetooth streaming device.
It operates of the Most Bus .

I doubt if you will be able to fine a CD changer and if you are getting noise from the
Radio and CD player in the dash then the source of the noise is probably not the Head unit .

the following is a related thread on the mr12volt unit

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2160565

[Lochstar8]

Update: I ended up re-wiring the entire audio system in the car. I moved all the right hand side or Passenger side wires to run along the center console rather than ANYWHERE NEAR the main power cables for the car. And this finally solved all the noise issues I had with interference. alternator whine being the main one but I could hear pretty much every electrical component in the car including the injectors. Now there’s absolutely zero interference and I mean zero but now I can hear the noise floor of my amp which is not a bad thing in my eyes. I’ll share some extremely terrible photos of where I routed my wires because not many people show that on the forums.


The first 5 photos are of the drivers side where there aren’t any main power cables so I ran my wires along the cars factory harness. As for the remaining 3 photos that’s the passenger side where I routed the speaker wires from the factory connections in which I soldered my wires to, in front of the subs towards the center console and then towards the back seat. From there I ran them over the transmission tunnel and fortunately there’s a groove in the metal making up the back seat the fits wires perfectly to then mate up with the rest of the wires on the drivers side. And once again re routing my wires to be like this rather than running them along the factory harness with the main power cables has now given me zero interference. Very happy with the results and thought I share my findings even though it’s somewhat common knowledge when it comes to audio systems.