[hov333]

so over the weekend I tried to go get my sticker renewed and the system rejected.

I thought I would be ok since the car doesn't show any check engine light (maybe I dont drive it long enough?) anyway, I was wondering, so since this is the case, I need to buy an o2 sim??

I checked the printout and one of the items said o2 sensor "not ready". I plugged in my OBD codereader before I took the car in and it didn't show any trouble codes so I thought I was ok, i guess not. Can anyone elaborate on this topic? thanks!

[Shieldze1025]

The cats reduce emissions... I'm guessing you just failed emissions since you don't have cats.

[bren335i]

HOV! It's Bren. I wrote this a long time ago check it out.


Some people have trouble setting ODB2 readiness like myself and received "R" stickers because they

a) never drive their car

b) they leave their driveway in an 8k rpm launch or it doesn't reach these criteria

c) commute doesnt satisfy criteria even after months of driving

Readiness is cleared everytime a CEL is cleared, battery is pulled, new tune is loaded, or fuel trims are 0'd


Here’s the cycle I use to "set" it back up:

1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evaporative leak detection systems.

2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times.

3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked.

4) De-accelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for 5-6 minutes. This checks evaporative leak detection system.

Remember:
The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if:
1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM
2) Large fluctuations in throttle position
3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH

Below is the PDF:

http://www.europeantransmissions.com...0Procedure.pdf

[hov333]

hey thanks kid, i know that it will throw a CEL eventually, i've been able to after taking lonnggg drives which i rarely do. I'm looking into either getting an o2 sim or just following shiv's DIY

[vase330]

I think being catless will not pass emissions in most states. Maybe MA has slack emission standards and may pass, but in most states that test for emissions no chance you pass without cats. You might wonder how your neighbors 82 civic that spews black smoke on start up even manages to pass... just remember different standards are used for different model year vehicles and mileage. So your much cleaner new car with no cats may still not pass.

[hov333]

guys i dont want to get off topic...obv a catless car should not pass emissions...i said i thought that since mine was not throwing codes it would be ok, now that i know it doesnt i am asking....do i need to buy an o2 sim to fix this issue?

[bren335i]

HOV listen to my advice above or call me.


TO THE NEWBS:

THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FOR CATLESS. MASSACHUSETTS CHECKS EMISSIONS VIA ODB2 PORT AND NOT VIA A SNIFFER

it is simply the readiness monitors which need to be set during a drive cycle. Hov you need to complete the cycle above and it will be "ready"

[scottp999]

I agree with Bren, but it would be good for you to get sims, so you don't continue to throw CEL's.

[hov333]

heres what happens after an extended period of driving (i was able to replicate this today). First i get the half engine light on the dash (car still drives totally normal), then drive it some more it throws a CEL. I check with OBD reader and it shows a message for each cat. My question is, with this scenario how could the readiness monitor possibly show ready now? I've had the car catless for almost a year now (and its thrown a CEL at me a bunch of times which i've cleared.

my confusion is just what situations would take a "ready" to "not ready"?? and visa versa

[stratplaya06]

Here's the situation:

Once you establish 'readiness' you will set the code, because YOU DON'T HAVE CATS!!! It's that simple.

Here are your options:
1. Don't pass emissions, and deal with all the shit that comes along with that
2. Get high flow cats in your downpipes so that the o2 sensors don't throw a code
3. Get a sim, whether in the form of a procede, or a wire in solution like the bms.

These are your options. Don't think that you can get through emissions without cats or sims.

[hov333]

sounds good man thats what i thought. appreciate it buddy. I'm looking at the BMS sims on riss's website the v3...

[bahn stormer]

Bren nailed it with the readiness code set instructions. Works the same in VWs and Audis.

You can drive around / follow instructions with even a generic code reader connected and watch all of the readiness codes change to "ready". When all 8 readiness codes are set AND you have no trouble codes stored you are good to go for an emissions test. (I am assuming test is done via OBDII like here in PA as stated above.)

Just to clarify: if you do not use a simulator, as soon as readiness codes are set you WILL throw a trouble code.

[hov333]

Originally Posted by bahn stormer

Just to clarify: if you do not use a simulator, as soon as readiness codes are set you WILL throw a trouble code.

this was the part that was confusing me before. Got it. I will be ordering a sim of some kind since my procede (rev I) model doesnt have it built in.

[alextremo]

Did you end up passing with an O2 sim?

[Belarus]

O2 SIM will not help you pass emission test. It's to "suppress" signals to ECU not to throw CEL when you don't have cats.

[alextremo]

In this state emissions testing is done via OBDII scan, so no CEL+OBD Readiness=


In theory anyway...

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by alextremo

In this state emissions testing is done via OBDII scan, so no CEL+OBD Readiness=


In theory anyway...

If it's done by OBDII scan then you do have to worry about CEL + OBD readiness....

[alextremo]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

If it's done by OBDII scan then you do have to worry about CEL + OBD readiness....

Right - my wording was poor. I meant having no CEL present and achieving OBD readiness should mean you pass.

(no CEL) + (OBD Readiness) =

[Maestro]

Originally Posted by bahn stormer

Bren nailed it with the readiness code set instructions. Works the same in VWs and Audis.

You can drive around / follow instructions with even a generic code reader connected and watch all of the readiness codes change to "ready". When all 8 readiness codes are set AND you have no trouble codes stored you are good to go for an emissions test. (I am assuming test is done via OBDII like here in PA as stated above.)

Just to clarify: if you do not use a simulator, as soon as readiness codes are set you WILL throw a trouble code.

I was just going to mention that PA is a bit different I know they have to do a visual on all the emission component as well, whether they actually do it or not is up to debate but I know PA required the car not to be modify from factory original or you fail the inspection itself, since only a few countries in PA require the emission test.


I modified an exhaust on an older car once still passed emission but failed the inspection since the car now had a dual exhaust which the vehicle never came stock.

[bahn stormer]

Originally Posted by Maestro

I was just going to mention that PA is a bit different I know they have to do a visual on all the emission component as well, whether they actually do it or not is up to debate but I know PA required the car not to be modify from factory original or you fail the inspection itself, since only a few countries in PA require the emission test.


I modified an exhaust on an older car once still passed emission but failed the inspection since the car now had a dual exhaust which the vehicle never came stock.

Just get inspected at a repair shop that is not the dealer. I doubt most mechanics know what to look for unless you obviously have no CAT or something that looks odd tied directly into the O2 sensor (wiring or spacer). I think most could care less also.

[WWM3]

It is my understanding that PA divides its emission standards by county. There should be a web site for PA DOT that lets you select your county and what your emisions test involves. For my county, its a gas cap and CEL check, no visual.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by bren335i

HOV! It's Bren. I wrote this a long time ago check it out.


Some people have trouble setting ODB2 readiness like myself and received "R" stickers because they

a) never drive their car

b) they leave their driveway in an 8k rpm launch or it doesn't reach these criteria

c) commute doesnt satisfy criteria even after months of driving

Readiness is cleared everytime a CEL is cleared, battery is pulled, new tune is loaded, or fuel trims are 0'd


Hey Bren...wanted to thank you for the instructions on getting the OBD to be ready! Passed on first try as soon as I did exactly what you wrote....People on the highway wasn't too happy towards me going 30 MPH on the highway for 4 minutes with my hazards on!! lol....The other leg of 50-60 MPH people were still cursing at me for 15 minutes of cruising at this speed!

Here’s the cycle I use to "set" it back up:

1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evaporative leak detection systems.

2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times.

3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked.

4) De-accelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for 5-6 minutes. This checks evaporative leak detection system.

Remember:
The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if:
1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM
2) Large fluctuations in throttle position
3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH

Below is the PDF:

http://www.europeantransmissions.com...0Procedure.pdf

Hey Bren wanted to thank you for the post about getting OBD readiness! I followed everything and timed everything as per your post....Took the car out and the first leg of cruising at 20-30 MPH for 4 minutes with my hazards on, people were not too happy with this because I caused all sorts of traffic!! lol The second leg of cruising at 50-60 MPH for 15 minutes, people were still pissed off that I was going slow but it did feel mad ass slow...After all said and done, pulled into my emission station for the test and everything was ready! Passed emission for 2011!!

One thing to add to this was my mechanic also stated to turn on the A/C while doing this because it also has a test for something he mention evaporator readiness of some sort! I had my A/C on throughout the drive