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Pictures: Electric water pump + thermostat replace
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05-14-2012, 10:00 AM | #89 | |
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Last edited by getBMWparts; 01-23-2013 at 11:14 AM.. |
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05-14-2012, 10:38 AM | #90 | |
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05-16-2012, 09:39 AM | #91 | |
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And to the fellow having overheat issues still. Idk what it could be if all your parts are new and you did the right bleed out procedures. I hope its nothing simple like connectors or anything like that. |
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05-17-2012, 08:07 PM | #92 |
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Used pump was a bad idea. My old pump was not completely dead, it would still pump, but I'm guessing it had problems building up enough pressure to keep the system happy. It would still spin and I could even do the bleeding procedure.
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05-18-2012, 08:48 AM | #93 |
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I am thinking the same but was not my call, I think a new pump should have been the way to go to eliminate the what if factor on it.
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05-29-2012, 05:27 PM | #94 | |
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05-29-2012, 07:42 PM | #95 |
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no prob man, yea i have had no issues either and im running the Turner Motorsport Pump and thermostat. car is running like a champ. if you need anymore help just let me know
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05-31-2012, 09:34 PM | #96 |
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dumb question, I am about to do the water pump change,
1. If I am replacing the WP I shouldn't have flush all the coolant via radiator bleed since when I will disconnect the WP hoses all the coolant should splash out?? 2. I read some conflicting things on this forum, some said that the stat comes out before WP, i don't think that correct? or is it? I am only asking since I am only planning to replace my WP. please clarify someone. thanks in advance.
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05-31-2012, 10:03 PM | #97 |
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[QUOTE=omerfar23;12072204]dumb question, I am about to do the water pump change,
1. If I am replacing the WP I shouldn't have flush all the coolant via radiator bleed since when I will disconnect the WP hoses all the coolant should splash out?? 2. I read some conflicting things on this forum, some said that the stat comes out before WP, i don't think that correct? or is it? I am only asking since I am only planning to replace my WP. please clarify someone. thanks in advance. First off did ur pump go out or was it starting to or are u doing it before it does? Because if it is already done then u need a new thermostat. If u are just doing it before it goes out then ok. And no the pump can come out before the thermostat. U are just going to undo the two hex bolts holding the stat to the pump. And as for the bleeding out. I just too the hoses off and let that shit splash away into s bucket. Then I squeezed both sides of the hoses to the radiator to pump out the juices. |
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06-01-2012, 08:25 AM | #98 | |
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[QUOTE=EASTCOASTNINJA;12072397]
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As per our guy in another thread (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=347412&page=2 = see post#24) I checked to see if the stat or the pump and it seems to me it is only the WP. No offense just curiousity why do you say that the stat has to be replaced if the WP has gone bad? I know it would wise and time-saving to replace them in pair but is it truly necessary?
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06-01-2012, 08:45 AM | #99 | |
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[QUOTE=omerfar23;12074307]
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06-06-2012, 02:47 PM | #100 | |
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Is it critical or necessary to have cleared the pump fail codes from the ECU prior to powering the new pump? I do not have a code reader capability other than OBDII. Will the Bav Tech |
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06-13-2012, 08:23 PM | #101 |
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Mine went out too
Log entry. At 106,000 miles the 2007 BMW 328xi left me stranded. Amber then red overtemp warning. Cost: $1450 at an independent BMW shop for waterpump and thermostat.
This kind of thing really makes me mad at BMW engineers. Really? Electric water pump. In a super inaccessible location. My next car will not be a German POS. I ran from VW (electronic nightmare on Tourag), V-6 engine failure on a 2007 Audi A4. It will be Japanese from this point forward. Sorry BMW fans. |
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06-13-2012, 09:10 PM | #102 | |
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06-13-2012, 10:14 PM | #103 |
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Parts dont last a lifetime. Water-pump going at 100k is normal with any car. Wish it would give a better heads up, but if you are that concerned then change it every 75k which is about every 6-7 years.
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07-08-2012, 10:46 PM | #104 |
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Anyone know the size of the external torx bolts that hold the WP and t-stat?
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08-21-2012, 09:11 PM | #105 |
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08-28-2012, 06:28 PM | #106 |
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Anyone know if there is a heat shield that needs to be removed in this process? I recently had my WP & TS replaced and now have a rattle at low rpms that sounds exactly like a heat shield. I got under there but everything seems tight.
annoying. |
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08-28-2012, 08:47 PM | #107 |
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08-28-2012, 09:36 PM | #108 | |
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I do want to make a list of the required tools to get this job done as we have pics and a pretty good list of what is needed one of these weeks I am going to take the set of instructions in a previous post and combine with my experience and pics and completed this damn DIY. You will need these tools to do the job: 3/8 ratchet or similar 10MM socket 5in extension swivel socket (to get the top bolt on the WP) 8MM socket and what ever socket is required to get the sway bar off maybe 12MM? piece of rope also makes this job much easier and is explained in a previous post. flat head screw driver preferably one long and one short and I used a 6mm wrench but I don't recall what for.(just remembered one of the screw claps was in an area I could not get a flat head screw driver or ratchet but I could get a small 6MM wrench to turn the screw bolt and loosen the clap) A pair of pliers bucket to empty coolant in funnel to add coolant back plus ramps or jack and stands... and patience. What else am I forgetting? Overall this is not an impossible or really even all that difficult. If you are experienced in auto work you can probably do this in 3 hours if not or if you like to take your time closer to five. The only hard part at all for me was getting those high tech clip clamps off the thermostat was a bit of bitch but just keep working it and will will slip right off or right in. |
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08-29-2012, 11:09 AM | #110 |
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I did mine yesterday, in about 2.5 hours, from start to finish.
Really not that hard, changing the starter is a bigger pain in the ass... |
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