[DieselDrink]

mrvedit, thanks for your response.

I do have the Carly app on my iPhone, that's what you are referring to right? So I'll use that to scan for codes rather than another generic OBD app? Just wanting to be clear that is what you are referring to.

My DashCommand app shows coolant at 225F or 105C, so that's normal right?

So it really is oil them and coolant temp as you refer to, cool the engine bay.

Lastly, what does BMS's oil thermostat mod do, does that actually help keep your oil temp down? how?

[mrvedit]

Yes, the Carly app will show more detailed info than a generic ODB scanner/app.

I have all the parts to install oil pressure and coolant temperature via gauges in place of the ashtray, but have not yet installed them.
Therefore I don't know what normal coolant temp is, or what value put the engine into limp mode.

I ordered the Burger Tuning oil thermostat mod, but also never installed it because my replacement engine is running much cooler than the hot-running one which finally threw a rod. The mod works by running the oil through the cooler at all times. Therefore when you start the track session the oil might be 80F cooler than when you star; and start cooling right away instead of waiting until 210F or so is reached.

[DieselDrink]

Got it. Thanks again. So I did scan with the iCarly app after the car threw the engine light again. I'm getting Engine module code:
Fault: Charge pressure control, plausibility: Pressure too low
- Code: 002C57

Does anybody think this is boost related? Could be charge pipe connection going? I inspected charge pipe but can't tell if the connection is leaking.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by DieselDrink

Got it. Thanks again. So I did scan with the iCarly app after the car threw the engine light again. I'm getting Engine module code:
Fault: Charge pressure control, plausibility: Pressure too low
- Code: 002C57

Does anybody think this is boost related? Could be charge pipe connection going? I inspected charge pipe but can't tell if the connection is leaking.

I assume is n55, if yes, look into the electropneumatic pressure converter in wastegate valve. If defective will be getting stock open and cause the above fault code.

[DieselDrink]

Originally Posted by feuer

I assume is n55, if yes, look into the electropneumatic pressure converter in wastegate valve. If defective will be getting stock open and cause the above fault code.

Thx Feuer! Will do.

[DieselDrink]

Originally Posted by DieselDrink

Thx Feuer! Will do.

So update: On my N55, which still has full extended warranty, BMW replaced the pressure converter as mentioned by Feuer, off the waste gate valve. They tested turbo and its responds to test, fully moving waste gate.

I suspect these parts as an old mechanic once said it, they get "lazy" after a while. They may still work, and not throwing code all the time, but not fully functioning all the time. BMW said they didn't really know if it was that part or not, but seen it before, so they threw a new one on.

Response is really good now. Ready for Track day in June, 1st time. Hope it goes well.

Looking to do Dinan Stage 2 tune next, but likely wait until my warranty comes fully due.

[STR8-6IX]

to those of you looking to invest into an oil cooler, trying removing your plastic engine cover.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

to those of you looking to invest into an oil cooler, trying removing your plastic engine cover.

What is that going to do?

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by feuer

What is that going to do?

lowers oil temps by 10c/50f.
the plastic cover is a heat trap.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by 6IX-F10-N52

lowers oil temps by 10c/50f.
the plastic cover is a heat trap.

Have someone measure this? I haven't come across any threads on this claim.

[STR8-6IX]

Originally Posted by feuer

Have someone measure this? I haven't come across any threads on this claim.

well, I've done it myself lol. I compared temp differences under a variety of driving conditions with and without my engine cover. temps were as followed:

(WITHOUT/WITH COVER)
highway- 100c vs 110c
city- 110c vs 120c+ (would creep into 125c)
on average, easy 40-60f difference for me. average of about 50f.

I basically got temps exactly to where they should be. I was concerned due to my temperatures sitting at 120c quite often in the summer (track temps in the city!)

[Asbjorn]

I found alot of good information in this thread, and just wanted to mention that if anyone is interested in a ppkv2 type of kit, I have a feeler out here. Personally I believe the quickest way to achieve better track temps is keeping the stock radiator and oil cooler, and then adding a large auxiliary radiator. I have had dual oil coolers myself, and ended up downgrading the second oil cooler to make space for a larger aux radiator instead. As others have said, coolant cooling is really the main bottleneck on track. It also makes sense when you compare the total radiator size of the S55 against the N54. Finally it is also somewhat important to keep the AC off.

[Bush Pilot]

The FAQ in the beginning of this thread to refer to a table below that shows the various oil coolers available and how they're performing. I can't find that.

I tracked my car a few weeks ago at Arroyo Seco Raceway in NM. I made myself car sick after a few laps so didn't get to the limp mode situation.

I suspect that there is an agreed upon, proven mod the N54 that will allow it to be tracked but I'm not able to get the "conclusion" out of this thread.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Bush Pilot

The FAQ in the beginning of this thread to refer to a table below that shows the various oil coolers available and how they're performing. I can't find that.

I tracked my car a few weeks ago at Arroyo Seco Raceway in NM. I made myself car sick after a few laps so didn't get to the limp mode situation.

I suspect that there is an agreed upon, proven mod the N54 that will allow it to be tracked but I'm not able to get the "conclusion" out of this thread.

As beginner your make a lot of mistake and to compensate you are on the accelerator more instead of carrying speed. This will cause your engine to run lot hotter. I have been tracking my n54 335i for a decade and don’t have overheating issues. Oil starvation yes. Last year I started tracking another 335i n54st and isn’t overheating either. So pause building your car. Instead learn how to drive it better , smother and faster.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by feuer

As beginner your make a lot of mistake and to compensate you are on the accelerator more instead of carrying speed. This will cause your engine to run lot hotter. I have been tracking my n54 335i for a decade and don’t have overheating issues. Oil starvation yes. Last year I started tracking another 335i n54st and isn’t overheating either. So pause building your car. Instead learn how to drive it better , smother and faster.

You are tracking your N54 at 4,300ft altitude? Bcs. there is HUGE difference in cooling environment between low and high altitude. Come to HPR and track N54 with no cooling modifications at 5,000ft and trust me, I will outrun you using my Adidas shoes.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by edycol

You are tracking your N54 at 4,300ft altitude? Bcs. there is HUGE difference in cooling environment between low and high altitude. Come to HPR and track N54 with no cooling modifications at 5,000ft and trust me, I will outrun you using my Adidas shoes.

I get that, boiling temps drop higher up you go. Anyhow, absolutely unrelated to my post.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by feuer

I get that, boiling temps drop higher up you go. Anyhow, absolutely unrelated to my post.

Nope. Your heat exchange drops with higher altitude due to lower air density. Nothing to do with boiling point. Your system is under pressure. Everything to do with your post.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by edycol

Nope. Your heat exchange drops with higher altitude due to lower air density. Nothing to do with boiling point. Your system is under pressure. Everything to do with your post.

My post was about track seat time. To learn how to drive first. Not about altitude. I wasn’t referring to the closed cooling system of the vehicle either. My understanding is that more water in the air makes the air less dance. I linked that water needing less to evaporate in high altitude. Anyhow, I don’t see it how you attached that to my post. Please explain.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by feuer

My post was about track seat time. To learn how to drive first. Not about altitude. I wasn't referring to the closed cooling system of the vehicle either. My understanding is that more water in the air makes the air less dance. I linked that water needing less to evaporate in high altitude. Anyhow, I don't see it how you attached that to my post. Please explain.

Because he has cooling issues. Just because you don't doesn't mean he doesn't. Doesn't mean he doesn't know how to drive. Everyone has cooling issues at 4,300ft on stock cooling set up with N54. Everyone! If you think you can swoop through corner at that altitude and prevent limp mode, you are dead wrong. Your radiators are missing some 20-25% of efficiency at that altitude. I have seen N54's with upgraded coolers limping at HPR. There are no tricks here with cooling. Yes we all running 10/90% concentrate/distilled water, yes we mostly run heat at max, but you still need beefed up system from stock. I personally run 335 oil cooler on N52. That heat exchanger some N52's have (X3, X5, European models) is not sufficient here although at low altitude in TX, FL people run it with no problems. Same is with N54. People running in TX come here just to find out altitude is a real bitch.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by edycol

Because he has cooling issues. Just because you don't doesn't mean he doesn't. Doesn't mean he doesn't know how to drive. Everyone has cooling issues at 4,300ft on stock cooling set up with N54. Everyone! If you think you can swoop through corner at that altitude and prevent limp mode, you are dead wrong. Your radiators are missing some 20-25% of efficiency at that altitude. I have seen N54's with upgraded coolers limping at HPR. There are no tricks here with cooling. Yes we all running 10/90% concentrate/distilled water, yes we mostly run heat at max, but you still need beefed up system from stock. I personally run 335 oil cooler on N52. That heat exchanger some N52's have (X3, X5, European models) is not sufficient here although at low altitude in TX, FL people run it with no problems. Same is with N54. People running in TX come here just to find out altitude is a real bitch.

From what was written in post 1003 I gathered that person is inexperienced. They got car sick, had to stop and didn’t experience limp mode. I didn’t connect getting car sick due to altitude. I have had people get sick with me the car at pretty much sea level altitude because they don’t have track experience. Since person was looking for answers on what to do regarding overheating I reply with better get some seat time first. Basically you and me read the thread differently. Had I known that they have experience and are tracking at 5000 altitude I would go with your reply too.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by feuer

From what was written in post 1003 I gathered that person is inexperienced. They got car sick, had to stop and didn’t experience limp mode. I didn’t connect getting car sick due to altitude. I have had people get sick with me the car at pretty much sea level altitude because they don’t have track experience. Since person was looking for answers on what to do regarding overheating I reply with better get some seat time first. Basically you and me read the thread differently. Had I known that they have experience and are tracking at 5000 altitude I would go with your reply too.

I just want to be clear that this is serious performance issue at altitude that cannot be remedied by more seat time. I get what you trying to say. But, that won't work there, not to mention heat+altitude in summer (his track is close to I10 in NM). That doesn't mean he shouldn't get more seat time, I mean that is all point of track.
Imperative here is to beef up cooling system so that he doesn't destroy his engine or transmission if automatic. IMO CSF coolant radiator and CSF upgraded oil radiator are way to go if stock. If he added power, I know a lot of people run here two oil radiators on N54/55 in addition to upgraded CSF coolant radiator.

[san40k]

a few data points tracking E90 335i n54 6MT sedan in ~80F ambient on Pacific Raceways:
- I run ancient JB3 in map3, sometimes 92 octane, sometimes 93 (by adding 2 gallons of 100 octane)
- My peak straight speeds are ~120-130 mph, not going after records there since I run stock sport package brake disks with carbotech x10 pads
- my oil temps peak at 280F without loss of performance (knock on wood)
- oil temps seem to be the same with stock 15 years old oil cooler AND upgraded CSF cooler (surprise for me..)
- no idea on coolant temps so far
- comparable peak temps on stock car vs bolt ons (DPs, 7" FMIC, hot side piping and charge pipe) on the same JB3 tune
- I can speculate (no data to prove) that ~5 seconds improvement in lap time resulted in about 10F increase in peak oil temps, at least from ~270F to 280F, or it could be warmer/wetter/drier days



PS: hope knocking on wood helps