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Code 2a39 - VVT position problem
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05-02-2024, 05:37 AM | #1 |
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Code 2a39 - VVT position problem
I have a 2005 325i (with engine swapped to n52b30), and right now I have an error code 2a39. This is the only error code that the car has, and its giving me headache. This problem is not related to the engine swap (atleast I don't think so), it was done by the previous owner of the car. And when I bought the car it didn't have this code.
Before this I had VANOS problem, so I cleaned the VANOS solenoids. After that the VANOS problem solved, but soon after that I resetted the VVT limits, because I read somewhere that it is recommended after doing anything with the VANOS. After this reset the 2a39 code appeared and since it persist no matter what I do. I drove the car a couple hunders of km since then, so sadly driving the car didn't fix it either. The current symptoms: - car can't go above 6500 rpm, which is to my understanding is the default limit if something is wrong with the VVT system. - increased fuel consumption What I tried so far: - resetting the VVT using the ignition ON method. In this case I heard the VVT motor running - resetting the VVT adaption with INPA - resetting the VVT limits using INSTA - disconnection the battery, let is sit for around 20 mins and reconnect the battery What I so far concluded is that the VVT is disabled all the time. With INPA it can be seen that the VVT is always fully opened, and the throttle body is the one that moving. Also with INPA I can trigger the VVT motor to change angles. I could change to every angle that is possible with INPA, so to 10, 45, 90, 135 and 170. And the shaft indeed moved. Is there any other option to try? Maybe is it a bad VVT motor? Or bad sensor? But in these cases shouldn't be there any more related error code? |
05-03-2024, 10:08 AM | #2 |
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Maybe there is something physically wrong with the worm gear on the motor itself. When I removed my valvetronic motor I fucked up and didnt turn it manually to release it. It shot out and that chipped the worm gear a bit at its end, but so far its okay. You could try maybe taking the motor out and visually inspecting it, or manually turning the gear? I think removing it can be done quickly if everything comes out easily (ignition coils were slow to get out for me).
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