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Dumb Question - Battery Replacement
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02-06-2014, 04:55 PM | #1 |
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Dumb Question - Battery Replacement
Sorry if this is covered elsewhere - I searched a bit, but everyone seemed to jump past the basics. I'm coming from an XJ Jeep so this whole battery registration thing is new to me...
The set-up: Pre-LCI 330xi, hop in to leave the shop (tire/wheel seal broke, I was leaking air). Start it up and it's throwing 4x4, DSC, TPMS, e-brake lights in yellow... the TPMS wasn't too surprising but with the rest I felt like a Christmas tree - nothing I've seen before. Weird. Drive a mile home, park it, try to stop the gears in my head tallying up potential repair costs of an xDrive/ Traction system failure. Next day get in the driver's seat, interior lights are on, go to start and nada. Info screen has a little seizure, but no engine turn. (He's dead, Jim!). It's pretty cold up here, has been for a while - figure it's dead. What to do now? I'll need a new battery - what's the deal on aftermarket? Do I need OEM or certain spec? I assume I can take that bracket off and install myself - then I have to register it to the car? I piped up in a thread about a guy near me in Jersey who can do the setup, but I'm not entirely sure how or why it works. Can someone please explain? Thanks!
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02-06-2014, 07:20 PM | #2 |
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330 does not necessarily need registration, assuming it is 06 model. Just swap out with a Walmart h8.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14584725
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02-07-2014, 08:47 AM | #3 | |
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02-07-2014, 09:13 AM | #4 | |
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02-07-2014, 09:19 AM | #5 |
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Those errors you described are normal after.
Those errors you described are normal after a battery replacement.
The car should reinitialize and they should go away after driving about a block. The 4x4 error needs the steering wheel turned to the far left and right to disappear. I just drove mine down to the end of the block and back and they all went away. You should match the amp hours on the battery if you go aftermarket don't use battery back up or you will blow a fuse. There are DIY procedures in the DIY sub board. I used a Interstate MTP 49/H8 Last edited by ctuna; 02-07-2014 at 09:24 AM.. |
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02-07-2014, 01:15 PM | #6 | ||
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02-08-2014, 01:01 PM | #7 | |
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Aside from weight savings going smaller, is there any downside to getting a non-OEM battery with the same specs (Interstate H8)?
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02-08-2014, 01:04 PM | #8 | |
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02-08-2014, 01:12 PM | #9 |
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Can't says for sure .
Can't says for sure .
But if your battery is very low it can cause all kinds strange things to happen. Have you tried charging the existing battery to see what kind of difference that makes.? http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja |
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02-08-2014, 01:51 PM | #10 | |
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02-08-2014, 03:43 PM | #11 |
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The unnconnected plug is for shipping the car.
The unconnected plug is for shipping the car.
Its used to keep it in a deeper sleep mode . (thus saving the battery from depletion) There is DIY in the DIY section on changing the battery. The battery clamps must be all the way down on the battery terminal when you tighten to clamp on . The battery distribution block on yours looks just like mine I have seen them in black plastic instead of red. Its helpful to have somebody hold the cables out of the way when you position the new battery in . Be sure to note the cable positions of anything you disconnect and be sure they go back to that position. http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=battery Last edited by ctuna; 02-08-2014 at 03:58 PM.. |
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02-08-2014, 06:18 PM | #12 | |
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02-11-2014, 03:04 PM | #13 | ||
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Quote:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2332_636967_0_ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...597#fragment-1
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02-11-2014, 03:41 PM | #14 |
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02-11-2014, 04:24 PM | #15 | |
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Sounds like the Everlast Maxx-H8 14 will work, and (assuming it's a non-AGM lead acid which it seems to be) I won't need to register, although I think Fazman may help me out with that in the near future. That Everlast was on your '06 330i right? Also, I saw the 760 CCA rating - any recollection what the other values were? Like I said I'm still learning all about battery spec, but this is off my current presumably dead brick (omitted S# I figured was serial up top): 525679 - 10 IT ----------------------- 12V 90Ah 720A (EN) 160RC 720CCA (SAE)
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Last edited by mmurray; 02-11-2014 at 04:27 PM.. Reason: added battery rating info |
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02-11-2014, 04:50 PM | #16 |
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No that was for my current car, but the OEM batteries are the same I believe. This battery is still running strong.
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