[wren57]

Changed calipers, pads, front lines, and sensors.

Here are the codes:

Dynamic stability control DSC 87

5DBD:
DSC: Brake system, rear-axle circuit, rear left: leakage or air
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

5DA7:
DSC: Brake system: leakage or air
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

5DE1:
DSC: Brake-pad wear: plausibility, rear axle
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed

Have bled using a motive pressure bleeder twice and once (just now) using INPA. At no point did the reservoir or pump go dry.

Also I couldn't figure out why the rear sensor was giving me that warning as everything was plugged in properly, so I read a post that said if you unsheathe and twist both wires together on each sensor that error would go away. Well, I did that and, well, it didn't. Ugh.

Help MUCH appreciated! Have the back of the car in the air and wiggled around looking for a leak and couldn't find anything.

[juld0zer]

Those codes for air/leakage are normal when doing a scanner bleed. You get that every time you do it with ISTA/D also. You won't notice unless you scan it afterwards. ie no light comes on the dash.
It occurs i think because it detects pedal movement but no meaningful increase in line pressure.

As for the sensor, is it a new genuine BMW sensor? Aftermarket ones sometimes act up.

[wren57]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Those codes for air/leakage are normal when doing a scanner bleed. You get that every time you do it with ISTA/D also. You won't notice unless you scan it afterwards. ie no light comes on the dash.
It occurs i think because it detects pedal movement but no meaningful increase in line pressure.

As for the sensor, is it a new genuine BMW sensor? Aftermarket ones sometimes act up.

But the pedal is super mushy and the code keeps coming back after clearing with the BT cable.

Sensors were aftermarket. I guess I could plug in the oem ones and cut them. Such a PITA.

[juld0zer]

How much fluid did you put in the bottle each time?

Tell me your bleeding procedure step by step.

Did you pre-fill the calipers prior to fitting the brake hose by injecting fluid via the bleeder nipple?

Also, how many times have you pressed the brake pedal after bleeding?
New pads (even genuine) will feel a bit mushy on the first series of presses. What pads are they?

[wren57]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

How much fluid did you put in the bottle each time?

Tell me your bleeding procedure step by step.

Did you pre-fill the calipers prior to fitting the brake hose by injecting fluid via the bleeder nipple?

Also, how many times have you pressed the brake pedal after bleeding?
New pads (even genuine) will feel a bit mushy on the first series of presses. What pads are they?

I don't know what bottle you're referring to.

Did not preload calipers, never heard of that before and don't really have a way to do it.

I put 2L of fluid in the motive bleeder, unscrewed reservoir, attached motive bleeder and pressurized to 15psi. Then I attached my catch bottle to the passenger rear and cracked the bleeder. I closed it once I saw clean new fluid and no air. Then I repeated for driver rear, passenger front, and finally driver front. Never let the motive bleeder get below 10psi. After I was done with the driver front I unscrewed the top of the motive bleeder to release the pressure then after a minute or so unscrewed it from the reservoir and screwed the top back on the reservoir.

I'm using Akebono dustless ceramic pads. I took it out for a few spins and slammed on the brakes, pedal to the floor, several times. It's not the pads, it's air in the lines.

[Volasko]

When installing the new calipers did you ensure they were installed on the right side? The bleed nipple should be pointing up. I know it sounds stupid, but the calipers can bolt right up but be on the wrong side. When you go and bleed everything it will look like fluid is coming out without bubbles, but there will be a large bubble trapped in the caliper its self.

[wren57]

Yup, bleed nipples are pointed up in the front. The rears are identical and pointed sideways.

[vladmury]

You need to activate the ABS pump for bleeding otherwise you will end up with a mushy brake pedal. Recently my rear subframe was removed and brake lines disconnected. The shop has bleed the system but without activating the abs pump , first I drove the car it felt very strange as pedal will go almost to the bottom.

I returned to the shop and asked them to bleed by activating the abs pump. Result: solid brake pedal feeling again.

The procedure is also available in DIS under Service Functions

[wren57]

Originally Posted by vladmury

You need to activate the ABS pump for bleeding otherwise you will end up with a mushy brake pedal. Recently my rear subframe was removed and brake lines disconnected. The shop has bleed the system but without activating the abs pump , first I drove the car it felt very strange as pedal will go almost to the bottom.

I returned to the shop and asked them to bleed by activating the abs pump. Result: solid brake pedal feeling again.

The procedure is also available in DIS under Service Functions

Did that using INPA.

[juld0zer]

The pressure bleeder is to remain connected and pressurised until the last brake (on LHD it is the front right) has been bled using the scanner (INPA, ISTA, whatever).

Pressure bleed at least 150-200mL fluid from each caliper RR, RL, FL, FR. Do not disconnect the bleeder. Check fluid level and pressurr, adjust if required.

Then jump in and do your scanner assisted bleed in the same order. You can do it without an assistant (I've never had issues and have done several master cylinder replacements this way).

You open the bleeder nipple and let the fluid stream out, click to activate the command to run the pump and tickle the valves a bit. Then do 5 full strokes of the pedal, moderate speed but firm strokes. So dont stomp, but push firmly. Dont push too slowly either. The rears will only go half way and get rock hard. This is normal function for a tandem master. The fronts will go all the way to the floor.

Then tighten up that nipple and move to the next one.

Which command are you using in INPA?
For the fronts, INPA might tell you to do something like stand on the brake pedal while it pulsates it up and down or something. You can follow it or skip it. I've had good pedals doing it both ways.