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Replacing rear subframe bushings this weekend.....tips & tricks?
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02-12-2020, 06:48 AM | #1 |
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Replacing rear subframe bushings this weekend.....tips & tricks?
This weekend my plan is to replace the oem subframe bushings in my 07' 335i with the whiteline black bushings, and also install the M3 rear arms.
I already have the exhaust off, and shields pulled off. The plan is to unhook the driveshaft from the transmission and leave it hooked to the diff and drop the entire subframe down along with the driveshaft. Any tips and tricks for getting the subframe off? I know the brake lines need to be unhooked, and also the e-brake cables....how big of a pain is that? Getting the old bushings out, and new ones in should be easy....I'm just worried about dropping the subframe down. Any info, tip, tricks, or advice of any kind would be a big help!!
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2007 335i, BMS DCI, BMS Chargepipe w/Tial BOV, ARM Catless Downpipes, silicone inlets, Bilstein B12 Prokit Suspension, Whiteline subframe bushings, Front/Rear M3 control arms, G-Plus FMIC, Stage 2 LPFP, Custom E40 tune by Justin (V8Bait), xHP stage 3 transmission flash, RB Two Turbos....10.90 @ 128mph
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02-12-2020, 08:17 AM | #2 |
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I would just take the calipers off and hang the caliper from the body to avoid opening the brake lines. And yes it's a lot of work, not necessarily hard. If you're not very confident working on car I probably wouldn't attempt. A lot of things will be rusty, get an impact wrench.
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02-12-2020, 08:31 AM | #3 |
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Thanks for the info. Compared to other jobs I've tackled, I'm not to worried about it.....just trying to see if there are easier or faster ways to do thing. Good idea regarding the brakes....I really didn't want to disconnect the lines.
How difficult is it to get the e-brake lines off? Is the only way to disconnect them from the e-brake handle in the cabin? |
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02-12-2020, 11:25 AM | #4 |
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Doesn’t seem too bad. Just remove at the rear hub and let it hang. Not sure if you need to relieve tension from the center console or not. I’m guessing likely you do. |
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02-12-2020, 11:56 AM | #5 |
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Take the entire rear subframe out of the car.
If you have rust on the subframe, use a wire wheel and get it off. Prime with 2 coats of Rustoleum Primer & maybe use 3 coats of Rustoleum Black. If putting in M3 subframe bushings, lightly coat the bushing hole with silicone grease before installing them. They will go in a lot easier & the silicone won't deteriorate the rubber of the new bushing. |
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02-14-2020, 01:50 PM | #6 | |
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I can't think of anyway to drop the subframe without disconnecting the lines... Or am I missing something? |
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02-14-2020, 03:33 PM | #8 |
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02-15-2020, 07:40 AM | #10 |
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02-15-2020, 10:13 PM | #11 |
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Well....I dropped the subframe, got the new M3 arms and Whiteline bushings in, and got it all back together. Took me about 8hrs from start to finish.
The toughest part was getting the e-brake pads and springs installed....what a pain! Everything else went pretty smooth! |
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02-15-2020, 10:37 PM | #12 | |
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Also, which bushing removal tool did you use - the HPA one? |
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02-15-2020, 11:27 PM | #13 |
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Why would you remove the brake calipers and bleed the brakes?
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02-15-2020, 11:35 PM | #14 |
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02-17-2020, 12:05 PM | #15 |
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Here are a couple pics from the weekend. Having a lift sure makes this kind of stuff easy.
For being 13yrs old with 100K miles on it, I was actually surprised how clean and non rusty everything was up under the car. Overall it was a pretty easy job....just takes some time. The brake lines, and all of the brake pad wiring connectors are a small pain, along with the e-brake cables....but not a huge deal. Also, don't forget about the wiring/connector for the rear headlight level sensor. It helps to have a tray where you can organize all of the nuts, bolts, and screws as you remove them from the car. And don't forget to mark the location of the bottom cup washers on the rear bushings that the exhaust hangers mount too....that makes putting it all back together easier. Getting the bushings out wasn't too big of a deal.....heating them up with a torch let them press out pretty easy. Without a press, or the right tool(s) to press them out.....it would be almost impossible to just beat them out with a hammer. Hopefully the new M3 arms and Whiteline bushings make a noticeable difference in how the car handles, and gets rid of that loose rear-end feeling.
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2007 335i, BMS DCI, BMS Chargepipe w/Tial BOV, ARM Catless Downpipes, silicone inlets, Bilstein B12 Prokit Suspension, Whiteline subframe bushings, Front/Rear M3 control arms, G-Plus FMIC, Stage 2 LPFP, Custom E40 tune by Justin (V8Bait), xHP stage 3 transmission flash, RB Two Turbos....10.90 @ 128mph
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02-17-2020, 09:55 PM | #16 |
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It looks like great progress so far. I wish mine lacked all that rust. Very clean.
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02-18-2020, 02:06 AM | #17 | |
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The thing to do is press the brake pedal before disconnecting the lines, and keep it pressed until the lines are reconnected. This way the fluid won't drain out of your reservoir, and you'll only need to bleed the rear brakes. Disconnect the battery too, of course, otherwise it'll get drained by running the brake lights all day. |
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02-18-2020, 04:37 AM | #18 |
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For those considering this job, use newtis.info and familiarise yourselves with what's involved. They are the official instructions from BMW.
You must disconnect the middle brake lines but use the above tip and you'll be fine. That will be the least of your worries. Use a jackstand or a watercooler water bottle against your seat to hold the brake pedal down. You'll need to crack both rear bleeders to relieve the line pressures before disconnecting the middle lines. The handbrake cables can be a wrestle. I couldn't get the cable disengaged from the lever. I ended up using a hook pick and small screwdriver to flick/heave each cable out of the actuators. That saved me having to disassemble the handbrake components. |
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02-18-2020, 07:33 AM | #19 | |
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02-18-2020, 07:35 AM | #20 | |
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02-19-2020, 05:09 AM | #21 | |
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Depending on your jack (or hoist) and what tools you have, compressing and removing the springs will make it easier to reinstall the subframe as you are not then fighting the springs also. You'll need an inner spring compressor to do it without disturbing the camber arms but if you don't have that type of compressor then you probably won't save any time or effort |
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02-19-2020, 11:03 AM | #22 |
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I believe if you remove the e brake boot, there is a locking pin/plate that holds the cables loose. Making it easier to disengage from the rear without having to completely remove the cables from the center and not giving a lot of trouble in the rear.
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