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      07-31-2020, 03:10 PM   #1
RoughKnight
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Exclamation Boost leak?

https://datazap.me/u/roughknight/log...-9-10-15-22-30

Just installed arm 7.5inch stepped, upgraded hoses, arm cp with tial (miss my synapse bov), but ever since the intercooler install ive been getting almost 10psi less than normal. If i flash to stock i get 2psi at full throttle, and 10psi on the stage 2+. I'm thinking boost leak, I have gotten the testers off ebay, I just dunno what to do. My mechanic is a really good friend and I feel like im starting to bother him by asking him to fix this thing for me over and over again lol. For reference, the day before I went to change the parts I was running a 5inch IC with stock piping, and it would pull 20psi (sometimes 21) all day every day.

HELP
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      07-31-2020, 03:31 PM   #2
Saif2018
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoughKnight View Post
https://datazap.me/u/roughknight/log...-9-10-15-22-30

Just installed arm 7.5inch stepped, upgraded hoses, arm cp with tial (miss my synapse bov), but ever since the intercooler install ive been getting almost 10psi less than normal. If i flash to stock i get 2psi at full throttle, and 10psi on the stage 2+. I'm thinking boost leak, I have gotten the testers off ebay, I just dunno what to do. My mechanic is a really good friend and I feel like im starting to bother him by asking him to fix this thing for me over and over again lol. For reference, the day before I went to change the parts I was running a 5inch IC with stock piping, and it would pull 20psi (sometimes 21) all day every day.

HELP
Most likely boost leak,

Replace all vacumn lines if you haven't done so. Also check charge pipe connections, vacumn canister connection points, diverter valves/bov.

Next boost solenoids need to be checked.

Worst case is turbos/wastegates gone.

This is a good guide to follow, even if you don't have 30FF code

https://bmwtuning.co/bmw-n54-30ff-en...-repair-guide/

Last edited by Saif2018; 08-01-2020 at 08:09 AM..
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      08-01-2020, 07:09 PM   #3
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"but ever since the intercooler install ive been getting almost 10psi less than normal"

Intercooler connections are little bastards, it's probably them sometimes it's not tightened enough and sometimes it's the angle of the clamps.... make sure that it's straight and tight.
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      08-01-2020, 07:16 PM   #4
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"Ever since you installed FMIC"

Yeah don't do what the first poster stated until you check your lower charge pipe connections from the FMIC, they are sneaky little bastards.

If anything do a smoke test before those steps.
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      08-02-2020, 03:25 AM   #5
Saif2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicky dj View Post
"Ever since you installed FMIC"

Yeah don't do what the first poster stated until you check your lower charge pipe connections from the FMIC, they are sneaky little bastards.

If anything do a smoke test before those steps.
Yeah charge pipe and FMIC connections need to be checked and probably the culprit, but I'd change the vacuum lines anyway if it hasn't been done, their dead cheap and can cause boost leaks later on. Might as well check all the suspects since he's dealing with boost leaks.
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      08-03-2020, 08:10 AM   #6
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I mean, there was this time we left a window open at our house and water got in. We went ahead and replaced the roof since it could leak later on 😂
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      08-03-2020, 09:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
I mean, there was this time we left a window open at our house and water got in. We went ahead and replaced the roof since it could leak later on 😂
lol, there's a big difference between vacumn lines and replacing the roof,

Vacuum Lines are cheap
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      08-03-2020, 09:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
lol, there's a big difference between vacumn lines and replacing the roof,

Vacuum Lines are cheap
True, there is a big difference (and it was a joke), but the logic is the same. It's best to not introduce more variables into the problem before it's resolved.
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      08-03-2020, 04:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
True, there is a big difference (and it was a joke), but the logic is the same. It's best to not introduce more variables into the problem before it's resolved.
I don't think you realise replacing vacumn lines doesn't cause any issues but will eventually have to be done anyway.
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      08-03-2020, 05:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
I don't think you realise replacing vacumn lines doesn't cause any issues but will eventually have to be done anyway.
Replacing your FMIC and CP doesn't cause issues either, yet here we are...

The thread literally exists because a problem resulted from simply replacing parts. Your recommendation is to replace more parts. I'm not saying it's stupid to replace your vacuum lines. I'm simply saying it doesn't totally make sense as the next step here.

Either way, no big deal.
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      08-03-2020, 05:32 PM   #11
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Except that while in the process of installing the CP and BOV, he would've had to disconnect some of the vac lines - and if they're old and crusty, even if he reinstalled they could be loose and leaking. Not too mention, doesn't the Tial need a larger vac line than the stock diverters?
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      08-03-2020, 10:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
Replacing your FMIC and CP doesn't cause issues either, yet here we are...

The thread literally exists because a problem resulted from simply replacing parts. Your recommendation is to replace more parts. I'm not saying it's stupid to replace your vacuum lines. I'm simply saying it doesn't totally make sense as the next step here.

Either way, no big deal.
Stock charge pipe will crack or blow eventually if your tuned. Its a good idea to replace it with a metal one.

FMIC upgrade recommended because stock intercooler is crap and will heatsoak and cause timing corrections if tuned.

The idea is might as well do it, especially if you plan on running a tune, to avoid those issues in future.

I guess some people will wait till things go wrong and won't do those upgrades.
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      08-04-2020, 10:14 AM   #13
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Ok so update incase anybody runs into this, i've seen lot of people answer and leave it at that.

The couplers ARM sends you are just too big. No matter what you do, whether its take the spring out or find the literal tightest grip, it will just be slightly too big. I went to [insert local auto supplier here] and bought some Interlocked Worm Gear Hose Clamps and got to work. After about 30mins in my driveway and changing every clamp, using a cigarette to see if the leak is still there, i'm happy to say I think I got most of it. Making full boost again.

Until the next thing breaks I guess...

Thank you for everybody's input!

/Thread
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      08-04-2020, 02:20 PM   #14
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There you have it, potential cause and issue addressed. Nothing more needed.

Preventative maintenance can come on in OP's time and budget.
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