[unixnerd]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Coworker let me know I'm leaking coolant again; I suppose I should find the time to put the replacement radiator in

On other news my M3 tension strut bushings have been shortened and ready to install into the "new" arms

I'm always worried about that, coolant it highly toxic to cats and the smell attracts them. If I think I have a coolant leak it goes to the top of the list.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by unixnerd

I'm always worried about that, coolant it highly toxic to cats and the smell attracts them. If I think I have a coolant leak it goes to the top of the list.

In the past years companies have changed their recipes for coolant to make it very bitter to deter animals from touching it

Nonetheless it is important, it hasn't leaked while parked in awhile

[Bufalo]

Originally Posted by bmv335ie90

You will need to cut all the wires and extend them in order to use the MULF mounting bracket. Or make your own adapter and extend them using that. I had the same issue when I did mine.

Nope. I'm pretty happy with the way this turned out, so indulge me in a few photos.

So this guy is the rear antenna for comfort access, and his bracket is in the way. A quick flip upside-down and a reroute of the wiring freed up some extra space on the TCU bracket.




That allowed me to mount the combox shifted to the driver's side, after removing a few extra studs from the bracket:


A few zip ties helped route the cabling, while tucking the extra fakra and MOST wiring under the bracket.


So it all looks like this under the cover, which still fits with plenty of clearance:

[bmw335ie90]

Originally Posted by Bufalo

Nope. I'm pretty happy with the way this turned out, so indulge me in a few photos.

So this guy is the rear antenna for comfort access, and his bracket is in the way. A quick flip upside-down and a reroute of the wiring freed up some extra space on the TCU bracket.




That allowed me to mount the combox shifted to the driver's side, after removing a few extra studs from the bracket:


A few zip ties helped route the cabling, while tucking the extra fakra and MOST wiring under the bracket.


So it all looks like this under the cover, which still fits with plenty of clearance:

That works! I just ended up extending my wires to fit mine.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Bufalo

Nope. I'm pretty happy with the way this turned out, so indulge me in a few photos.

So this guy is the rear antenna for comfort access, and his bracket is in the way. A quick flip upside-down and a reroute of the wiring freed up some extra space on the TCU bracket.




That allowed me to mount the combox shifted to the driver's side, after removing a few extra studs from the bracket:


A few zip ties helped route the cabling, while tucking the extra fakra and MOST wiring under the bracket.


So it all looks like this under the cover, which still fits with plenty of clearance:

I really need to make this happen in mine.
I didn't want to extend the harness.
I've bought the new connector.
You just repinned the TCU/MULF wires into the combox connector and made it fit?

I've had all the stuff here for like 4 months. lost the motivation after I got the CIC in there.

[JonOhh]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Exhaust cleaning up pretty nice, most of the pits sanded out fairly easily. Little more polishing around the edges and I'm calling it good enough.

It's really refreshing to see other people that care about every detail. Fantastic job man, we love to see it.

[Bufalo]

Originally Posted by nsjames

I really need to make this happen in mine.
I didn't want to extend the harness.
I've bought the new connector.
You just repinned the TCU/MULF wires into the combox connector and made it fit?

I've had all the stuff here for like 4 months. lost the motivation after I got the CIC in there.

That's what I did! I have had the combox on a shelf since May, finally had a day here with no other responsibilities to do the tedium of moving wires between connectors and then refreshing my brain on use of NCSExpert. The DIY thread started by "jimmelo" on Bimmerfest was my guide. I made a spreadsheet for doing the wiring swap then printed it out to set in the trunk with me; I started at the top of the list and worked to the bottom. I can send it to anyone who needs; I don't believe I can attach an excel file here.

From there, it was fairly straightforward coding: Change the VO to add and subtract features (per that same DIY thread), and then wrote that VO to the CIC and MEDIA. I had sent my CIC unit out to nickco43 for firmware and software updates in April, and so I didn't need any fsc or features coding to make the apps and connected drive work.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by JonOhh

It's really refreshing to see other people that care about every detail. Fantastic job man, we love to see it.

Thanks man, it's nice to be around like minded ppl sometimes instead of always being the freak. Yours looks great, same as mine and the color I really wanted, altho sometimes it is a relief to have the Titan Silver, it hides a lot of sins. I know if you're keeping that BSM pristine you're one of us .

[tcphoto]

I started my VCG DIY by pulling it and cleaning the area before finishing in the morning. I found that half the gasket was rather pliable and the other half like plastic. It's a project I'd prefer not doing again, the E46 was much easier. Funny, the E92 doesn't have the patina that the E46 did at a similar mileage.

Update: I found the picture of the E46 when I did the VCG at 118K.

[E92William]

Cleaned a few disa valve housings and in for rebuilds

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by E92William

Cleaned a few disa valve housings and in for rebuilds

You are the Disa Valve King!

[E92William]

Originally Posted by LemansE90335xi

You are the Disa Valve King!

Thanks! I actually like working with and modifying these quite a bit

[neilvan]

Found a few HIR1 bulbs at the local yard; With a few mods they fit in the M-sport fog lights. More light output is better right lol

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Bufalo

That's what I did! I have had the combox on a shelf since May, finally had a day here with no other responsibilities to do the tedium of moving wires between connectors and then refreshing my brain on use of NCSExpert. The DIY thread started by "jimmelo" on Bimmerfest was my guide. I made a spreadsheet for doing the wiring swap then printed it out to set in the trunk with me; I started at the top of the list and worked to the bottom. I can send it to anyone who needs; I don't believe I can attach an excel file here.

From there, it was fairly straightforward coding: Change the VO to add and subtract features (per that same DIY thread), and then wrote that VO to the CIC and MEDIA. I had sent my CIC unit out to nickco43 for firmware and software updates in April, and so I didn't need any fsc or features coding to make the apps and connected drive work.

yeah I've done all the other cic coding and retrofit things.

It tok a week to find the right FSTOOLs so I could write FSC codes.

You made the right choice sending it to nicko. he helped me keep my sanity.
real nice guy.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Thanks, except for the angle grinder which is necessary the rest of it is harbor freight tools and ebay supplies, it's not an elaborate setup but effective for occasional use. I have a potion or elixir to ward rust and corrosion off most surfaces. The white diamond polish is supposed to have some kind of sealer but I think the answer for exhaust is you don't keep it from coming back, you have to polish it off now and again, it just gets too much heat to coat it with anything short of ceramic.

Castings on the other hand love RPM. You heat the part up and paint this paste on and it melts in, I used that on steering knuckles, hubs, water pump, all the bolts. Things you can't heat up or painted or plastic or whatever parts all have some kind of secret sauce.

Why not have them powder coated in silver? You could tape off the areas where you don't want paint to get into just like a caliper.

[dmatre]

Installed Koni Sport/Eibach ProKit on the E90.

Somehow, it never goes as easy as shown in the YouTube videos.

Surprisingly, getting the rear springs in was far more difficult than doing the front struts.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Why not have them powder coated in silver? You could tape off the areas where you don't want paint to get into just like a caliper.

For starters I don't know how or have any equipment to do powder coating (yet), but beyond that bare metal parts are supposed to be bare metal, and nothing says detailed like bare metal parts that look brand new.

These are a few things I've treated with RPM, it makes the metal bit darker, but now they'll look new for a long time, maybe until they wear out even.

[3PedalJake]

I didn't have super high expectations for a $47 DIY steering wheel cover from China, but it ended up looking fairly OK. New trim piece and it's looking pretty good.

[colorado.e9x]

Replaced the coolant flange with an aluminum one on the project, glad we did cause the original crumbled apart when we took it off

Broke the hardened vacuum line taking off the OFH so tomorrow we'll be replacing about half of it with some PCV line, I'll update with pics

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Replaced the coolant flange with an aluminum one on the project, glad we did cause the original crumbled apart when we took it off

Broke the hardened vacuum line taking off the OFH so tomorrow we'll be replacing about half of it with some PCV line, I'll update with pics

Yes some pics please, I have both those jobs coming up.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Yes some pics please, I have both those jobs coming up.

They're both easy to do based off the procedure but in retrospect they're quite annoying. I'll try and remember to post pics though lol

Coolant flange doesn't like to go in very easily with the new o-ring (or at least the one that came with it) and since its two bolts on the top, I've ran into the problem where the bottom wont sit flush and it'll pinch and ruin that new o-ring

As far as the OFHG, the bolt underneath the manifold is a royal pain in the ass (youll need some weeble wobbles and extensions and snake through the first runner). We put a tad too much pressure into the vac line and it snapped. Hence replacing it with PCV line

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

They're both easy to do based off the procedure but in retrospect they're quite annoying. I'll try and remember to post pics though lol

Coolant flange doesn't like to go in very easily with the new o-ring (or at least the one that came with it) and since its two bolts on the top, I've ran into the problem where the bottom wont sit flush and it'll pinch and ruin that new o-ring

As far as the OFHG, the bolt underneath the manifold is a royal pain in the ass (youll need some weeble wobbles and extensions and snake through the first runner). Put a tad too much pressure into the vac line and it snapped. Hence replacing it with PCV line

I just bought a 1/4" E10 socket in anticipation of that OFH bolt. Thx for the tips.