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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > E90 alarm instal NOT prewired



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      01-22-2022, 01:37 PM   #1
david in germany
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E90 alarm instal NOT prewired

Ok, I am ptpending’s test Guinea pig. I recently purchased his alarm kit for non prewired cars. So this will take a few days to put together for you as I really just started the install.

First, this is not the first part or “kit” I have purchased from him. First one was a complete Individual Audio set for my 335i and just like before, packaging and shipping was top notch.

As the alarm is going into my wife’s 2011 328i there were a few items additional I needed to purchase (no fault of ptpending)

I had to order a rear light housing because in her model BMW decided not to perforate the slots for the ultrasonic sensors. Funny that the clips for the sensor where there. I could have dremeled them open but I found the correct housing with the sensor already installed for around $20.

Next was another rear view mirror, the one I received from him did not have the homelink which my wife’s car has stock. Homelink mirror with compas and clown nose ran me about $50.

Now to get to the nitty gritty, the kit came with every factory wire associated with the alarm. Hood sensor, siren, ultrasonic sensor.

I popped the rear light down, popped the front control unit down and pulled the sunroof rubber trim and ran the harness from the ultrasonic sensor to the x14289 connector in the roof control center (located in the front roof light housing)
I had to swap 5 pins from the supplied x14289 connector to the factory x14289 connector, easy, a pick tool makes quick work of the pin release and they simply slide into the factory connector in the same locations.

Next was the mirror it self, I pulled off the mirror trim and disconnected the wire harness and gave the mirror a quarter turn and it released. The kit came with a single wire. This wire goes from the mirror x14292 connector to the x14288 connector at the roof control center. I fed it through the factory mirror grommet and plugged it into both connectors. This wire is the primary wire for the clown nose led.

So far this is where I have stopped, after putting everything back together.
At this point, no the clown nose does not function and my compass is non functional but I have not taken the car for a test drive and I could have just got a dud mirror with a dead compass. I know the clown nose will not function without coding so no worries.

Still to do,
-run the cable from the drivers side rear fender well to the junction box, ground and roof control unit and install the siren.
-run the cable from the hood switch to ground and the CAS and pop the switch in.
-code the car.

I have a few pics of the parts and connections that I will post up at a later date and if anyone wishes pics of any specific part of the install I will see what I can do.

So far recommended tools, t15 torx driver, small pick tool, a good light and nothing else needed yet.

I also highly recommend if you have an android device, download WDS Android for all of the schematics and connector locations.

I will probably need a 10mm later for the siren install and maybe a 8mm for the interior.

More to come but please have patience, I don’t have the time to accomplish this all at once.

David
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2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car

Last edited by david in germany; 01-22-2022 at 02:50 PM..
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      01-22-2022, 08:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david in germany View Post
Ok, I am ptpending's test Guinea pig. I recently purchased his alarm kit for non prewired cars. So this will take a few days to put together for you as I really just started the install.

First, this is not the first part or "kit" I have purchased from him. First one was a complete Individual Audio set for my 335i and just like before, packaging and shipping was top notch.

As the alarm is going into my wife's 2011 328i there were a few items additional I needed to purchase (no fault of ptpending)

I had to order a rear light housing because in her model BMW decided not to perforate the slots for the ultrasonic sensors. Funny that the clips for the sensor where there. I could have dremeled them open but I found the correct housing with the sensor already installed for around $20.

Next was another rear view mirror, the one I received from him did not have the homelink which my wife's car has stock. Homelink mirror with compas and clown nose ran me about $50.

Now to get to the nitty gritty, the kit came with every factory wire associated with the alarm. Hood sensor, siren, ultrasonic sensor.

I popped the rear light down, popped the front control unit down and pulled the sunroof rubber trim and ran the harness from the ultrasonic sensor to the x14289 connector in the roof control center (located in the front roof light housing)
I had to swap 5 pins from the supplied x14289 connector to the factory x14289 connector, easy, a pick tool makes quick work of the pin release and they simply slide into the factory connector in the same locations.

Next was the mirror it self, I pulled off the mirror trim and disconnected the wire harness and gave the mirror a quarter turn and it released. The kit came with a single wire. This wire goes from the mirror x14292 connector to the x14288 connector at the roof control center. I fed it through the factory mirror grommet and plugged it into both connectors. This wire is the primary wire for the clown nose led.

So far this is where I have stopped, after putting everything back together.
At this point, no the clown nose does not function and my compass is non functional but I have not taken the car for a test drive and I could have just got a dud mirror with a dead compass. I know the clown nose will not function without coding so no worries.

Still to do,
-run the cable from the drivers side rear fender well to the junction box, ground and roof control unit and install the siren.
-run the cable from the hood switch to ground and the CAS and pop the switch in.
-code the car.

I have a few pics of the parts and connections that I will post up at a later date and if anyone wishes pics of any specific part of the install I will see what I can do.

So far recommended tools, t15 torx driver, small pick tool, a good light and nothing else needed yet.

I also highly recommend if you have an android device, download WDS Android for all of the schematics and connector locations.

I will probably need a 10mm later for the siren install and maybe a 8mm for the interior.

More to come but please have patience, I don't have the time to accomplish this all at once.

David
Interesting, always wanted to add the alarm to my non-prewired car. Mostly just to add the chirp when you lock the car to be honest but having an actual alarm would be nice also. My rear view mirror has the clown nose on it already, I wonder if the LED is in there there or its just a "dummy". Install sounds strait forward, wish I would have have known about this when I did my stereo as I had the whole interior out.
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      01-24-2022, 01:19 PM   #3
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Day 2, not much time tonight, had about an hour to work on the car.
I got the siren/tilt sensor installed and wire run into the cabin.

Step 1, lift up the left rear and remove the tire (jack stand of course for safety)

Step 2, remove the inner fender felt piece. It is held in with a combo of 10mm plastic nuts and 3 8mm screws towards the rear. I did not need to detach it from under the rocker panel as it easily pushes down and out of the way.

Step 3, would have been much easier if I had a fold down seat in my wife’s car but…
Remove the rear seat (YouTube this one if you have never done it.)

Step 4, run the wires from the siren into the cabin through the grommet already in place there. I would recommend using the hole already in the grommet as the other uncut hole is too small (feel free to ask me how I found this out…) I used a good set of needle nose pliers to push each terminal through the grommet and this seemed to make quick work of it. And there is plenary of room to pop the grommet out of its home and do all of this under the fender and stick the grommet back in place when done.

Step 5, install the siren, easy enough, the body of the car is cut out where it goes and has 3 little studs spot welded in place, bolt in the bracket plug in the connector to the siren and bolt it into its new home.

As I stopped here, I put the car all back together so if my wife needs it she can us it.

Step 6 will be running the wire to the roof control box and junction box. One of the thing I did find was that my ground terminal had no free terminals so I spliced into one already in place.

Step 7 will be running the hood pin wires.

Step 8 is going to be coding.
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Last edited by david in germany; 01-24-2022 at 02:10 PM..
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      03-03-2022, 08:53 PM   #4
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Any update on your install? After reading your post Iím tempted to grab a set for my e90
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      03-05-2022, 03:46 AM   #5
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It has been freezing here the last week so not yet. The install is very straight forward if you understand BMW schematics. So far it has been easier than installing heated seats in a non wired car.
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2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car
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      03-18-2022, 09:02 AM   #6
david in germany
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So on a POSITIVE note I caught Covid… I am on quarantine until next Thursday so as I feel a bit better, I hope to get this completed. For those of you that are curious, I am doing ok other than heavy cough and no energy.
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      03-19-2022, 11:44 AM   #7
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Stay healthy !
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      03-19-2022, 02:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
Stay healthy !
Trying to. ButÖ.

It is wired!

So as with the other ground point all of the terminals were full at the ground point for the hood switch so I crimped on a ring terminal and attached it on the 10mm stud at the ground point. Hardest part so far is pulling the junction box and getting it pulled down to get the power wire in for the siren to the correct terminal.

Down side, I did break the pins off of the rear of the dead pedal causing it to be too loose to just stick back into place. I will order a new one but for now I hid a screw on the side and it does feel stable enough to leave it if I choose.

It was a challenge to get the hood switch wires into the cabin as well. I used a nice long screw driver to push a wire from the cabin through the wire harness grommet. Once I had the wire through it I simply taped the hood switch wires to it and after a little lube, pulled them back through.

I probably spent about 3 hours on it today.

Depending on how I feel, I may code it tomorrow.
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      03-20-2022, 12:31 PM   #9
david in germany
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Install is complete, I used ista-p and icom for the coding (regret it now because I had to recode all of the custom settings in my cic again. ) if I didn’t have a US car in Germany the default coding would have been fine though. All in all, I get a defective led error but everything else works as it should.
As for the led error, I still need to figure it out. It is wired 100%correctly and the two mirrors I have tried have the error.
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      03-20-2022, 03:49 PM   #10
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Pretty sure those comb connections have twice their apparent availability for terminals. The plastic cover masks 50% of the actual termination points.

Does the FZD need coding for the LED?
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      03-20-2022, 03:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andystobbs View Post
Pretty sure those comb connections have twice their apparent availability for terminals. The plastic cover masks 50% of the actual termination points.

Does the FZD need coding for the LED?
I pulled ground comb loose and it was 100% full. As for the fzd, ista-p coded all of the required modules. I am not certain if it coded it. I don’t think it would be needed as it should be the module reporting the led error.

I am thinking I may have a break in the cable for the led. Tomorrow I will pull the wire and check it’s integrity.
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2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit.
2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car

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      03-21-2022, 02:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david in germany View Post
I pulled ground comb loose and it was 100% full. As for the fzd, ista-p coded all of the required modules. I am not certain if it coded it. I donít think it would be needed as it should be the module reporting the led error.

I am thinking I may have a break in the cable for the led. Tomorrow I will pull the wire and check itís integrity.
david, you may consider to connect directly the pins to led
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      03-21-2022, 07:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
david, you may consider to connect directly the pins to led
Tried it. No change. I also swapped out the ultrasonic sensor and no difference.
Also the cable is good.
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      03-21-2022, 08:52 AM   #14
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So I checked the line from the ultrasonic sensor all the way to the mirror and it is good to go. I swapped the known good mirror from my 335i with factory alarm. No dice. I tried the mirror I was using in the 328i in my 335i and it worked fine.

Next step will be trying the ultrasonic sensor in my 335i to see if it is good and vice versa.

This is just weird.
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      03-21-2022, 11:54 AM   #15
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But you say that everything working - led is blinking, but error is active ?

i found the simplest E90 mirror which only has Alarm LED wiring. It has connected 8 and 9 pins in mirror socket (10 pin).
also consider swap FZD module
if it help, i will send you one
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      03-21-2022, 01:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
But you say that everything working - led is blinking, but error is active ?

i found the simplest E90 mirror which only has Alarm LED wiring. It has connected 8 and 9 pins in mirror socket (10 pin).
also consider swap FZD module
if it help, i will send you one
Everything works except for the led and I get faulty led error.

So pins 8 and 9 connected together? Which car version? I can look it up on wds.

I donít think it can be the fzd as it only allows the signal for the led to pass unless it is not supplying the other half of the signal somehow.
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      03-21-2022, 01:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david in germany View Post
Everything works except for the led and I get faulty led error.

So pins 8 and 9 connected together? Which car version? I can look it up on wds.

I donít think it can be the fzd as it only allows the signal for the led to pass unless it is not supplying the other half of the signal somehow.
8 and 9 not connected together,
FZD provides positive signal to pin 8
DWA provides (it seems) negative to pin 9

but since LED requires at least two signals, that means that you have to check these wires if you want to see if any voltage coming
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      03-21-2022, 03:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptpending View Post
8 and 9 not connected together,
FZD provides positive signal to pin 8
DWA provides (it seems) negative to pin 9

but since LED requires at least two signals, that means that you have to check these wires if you want to see if any voltage coming
As it has power overall, I can only guess that I am getting no ground signal from the dwa (subsonic sensor).
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      03-21-2022, 03:30 PM   #19
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A good thing is that I have a completely working system in my 335i so I can just swap components until something doesn’t work..
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2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit.
2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car
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      03-21-2022, 03:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david in germany View Post
A good thing is that I have a completely working system in my 335i so I can just swap components until something doesn’t work..
but what ECU generate LED error - FZD or DWA ?
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      03-21-2022, 03:55 PM   #21
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I’ll have to look, protool is what I used to check the codes, maybe tomorrow I’ll throw ista-d at it.
I do think it was dwa though.
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2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit.
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      03-22-2022, 09:06 AM   #22
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Yes, DWA error.

I have reset the dwa a few times now and it self checks fine but the led error always returns.
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