[MooLard]

Hi there, I have had an initial go at doing this on my car and am not able to work it out, is anyone in the area able to do this for me?
Would like to up my headlight rings brightness too but just to do the hifi coding would be excellent.
Thanks in advance,

[2real4u]

Could do it for you

[MooLard]

Evening! Not even convinced I have the right cable now because I bought it a few years back purely to read and clear fault codes from my previous E60. I'll do a bit more reading up on the subject because I see there are cables out there with a switch on to turn them to d-can.

[MooLard]

Managed to get this done after buying the right cable that definitely does d-can, which is good! The sound is not as expected though, it does indeed sound flatter on the mids and highs but bass seems to be missing or very low. Anyone else experienced this?

[Digitalize]

Probably need to play with the levels until you get what you want, you're used to a more artificial pumped up sound.

That or your subs aren't working.

[4foothill]

I've just done the same upgrade and you're describing how mine sounds before coding. Did you notice any difference after coding?

Did you follow the instructions when plugging in the mids and tweeters or did you just match up the cable colours? A lot of people reported the instructions are wrong and you should match up the colours instead.

Also are you gongs abnormally loud? What head unit do you have? See this thread for others with the same symptoms: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=961204

[4foothill]

Coded hifi in last night and I have the exact same issue - no more bass. Tried playing with the levels, increasing the bass just increases the bass from the mids, nothing seems to get the woofers working significantly again.

Going to take my door cards off again and double check I got the wiring correctly. Doubt I got it wrong though as the tweeters came pre-connected from the previous owner (unless they also had it wrong?!).

[MooLard]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

Probably need to play with the levels until you get what you want, you're used to a more artificial pumped up sound.

That or your subs aren't working.

Thanks for your feedback, can feel the subs working with my hands when at high volumes so it's more likely I am not used to the different EQ settings overall.
Currenty have the treble one notch above middle and bass two notches below max and fader one notch from centre to the front!

[MooLard]

Originally Posted by 4foothill

I've just done the same upgrade and you're describing how mine sounds before coding. Did you notice any difference after coding?

Did you follow the instructions when plugging in the mids and tweeters or did you just match up the cable colours? A lot of people reported the instructions are wrong and you should match up the colours instead.

Also are you gongs abnormally loud? What head unit do you have? See this thread for others with the same symptoms: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=961204

Evening! Yes I noticed a difference after coding, tweeters a little quieter, much louder mids and little bass.
As for the cables, due to using Vibe after market tweeters I just matched up negatives to brown wires and positive to the others, surprised if it'll make much difference if the wrong way around with tweeters but they do need to match left to right.

My gongs are the same volume, how strange? I'll take a look at that thread now.

[Soul_Glo]

AFAIK you need an ICOM cable and ISTA-P to code hi-fi. It cannot be done properly with D/K CAN cable.

[anees]

Not strictly true. On head units that come with the LCI, you need an ICOM.

I used a d/k can serial cable on my 2005 330i

My personal preference is not to code to hi-fi, as the rear shelf speakers are almost all but drowned out. They are not amplified and rely on the power output of the non amplified head unit to get somewhat decent sound output

[4foothill]

Checked the tweeters, my amps and harness, they were all working fine just receiving very low sound.

Uncoded HiFi, put switch on amp to 2... Sound is perfect! Bongs are improved greatly and the amp lag even seems to have gone (might just have been a fluke). Bass isn't too over the top like it was with switch 1. After lots of experimentations I can only assume switch 2 compensates for the bad eq of the base head unit, whereas switch 1 seems to try and replicate it's own eq (since it's designed for business unit).

If only I'd tried that before coding the stereo, would have saved myself a lot of time ripping apart the car.

[zenrana]

Hi I have the same problem after retrofitting hifi speakers and amp with the lack of bass after coding cic to hifi. Where is this switch. I have a black amp and I don’t think it has any switches. Thanks