[wdwyerr516]

Would these corroded connections on my junction box be the cause of my no crank issue?

[StradaRedlands]

Similar situation on our GL left us dead in the water. So that's a big internet maaaaybe...

[NZE90]

One of the pins is broken off so yes i would say it is possible

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by wdwyerr516

Would these corroded connections on my junction box be the cause of my no crank issue?

That Black 54-pin connector you are holding is X14272, and it is ONE of TWO similar connectors (other one is Blue) that connects to the Junction Box Electronics Module (JBE) which plugs into the bottom of the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel.

It appears that Pin #19 is broken. That pin provides one of two K-CAN bus lines to MRS (Multiple Restraint System) Module. The Instrument Panel communicates with the JBE via the K-CAN bus, so weird Instrument Cluster activity is probably related to that. If you have had a water leak into that footwell, that has probably caused the extensive corrosion. I would consult a local "Module Expert", with photos, or unplugging the JBE from the JB, and having him inspect (with photos of Connectors: Both Black & Blue; X14272 & X14271). The JBE can be unplugged from JB Fuse Panel & repaired/ replaced.

When you originally posted regarding "NO Crank" issue on 5/10/23, you indicated you had ISTA and were awaiting K+DCAN cable. If you have either ISTA or INPA functioning, please let us know and we can suggest DIAGNOSTIC steps to take. I have NOT seen any CAS Fault Codes (A0B4, etc.), and in No Crank situation, CAS Faults, Fault Details, and Live Data from CAS are the place to start. With that corrosion at X14272, you clearly have OTHER issues, but that connector does NOT directly affect Starter Activation by CAS Module. It MAY affect other INPUTS to CAS, such as P/N Gear Selection on AT model.

Please provide Last-7 Characters of your VIN, and ALL Fault Codes in ALL Module, PARTICULARLY CAS Module, and we can suggest Next Steps. ISTA or INPA ScreenPrints of Fault Codes preferred. See attached pdfs.
George

[wdwyerr516]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

That Black 54-pin connector you are holding is X14272, and it is ONE of TWO similar connectors (other one is Blue) that connects to the Junction Box Electronics Module (JBE) which plugs into the bottom of the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel.

It appears that Pin #19 is broken. That pin provides one of two K-CAN bus lines to MRS (Multiple Restraint System) Module. The Instrument Panel communicates with the JBE via the K-CAN bus, so weird Instrument Cluster activity is probably related to that. If you have had a water leak into that footwell, that has probably caused the extensive corrosion. I would consult a local "Module Expert", with photos, or unplugging the JBE from the JB, and having him inspect (with photos of Connectors: Both Black & Blue; X14272 & X14271). The JBE can be unplugged from JB Fuse Panel & repaired/ replaced.

When you originally posted regarding "NO Crank" issue on 5/10/23, you indicated you had ISTA and were awaiting K+DCAN cable. If you have either ISTA or INPA functioning, please let us know and we can suggest DIAGNOSTIC steps to take. I have NOT seen any CAS Fault Codes (A0B4, etc.), and in No Crank situation, CAS Faults, Fault Details, and Live Data from CAS are the place to start. With that corrosion at X14272, you clearly have OTHER issues, but that connector does NOT directly affect Starter Activation by CAS Module. It MAY affect other INPUTS to CAS, such as P/N Gear Selection on AT model.

Please provide Last-7 Characters of your VIN, and ALL Fault Codes in ALL Module, PARTICULARLY CAS Module, and we can suggest Next Steps. ISTA or INPA ScreenPrints of Fault Codes preferred. See attached pdfs.
George

Hi,
I appreaciate the reply.
My last 7 digits of my VIN is NL26475.
I've attached a Operations report due to there being too many to screenshot.

Once again thank you for your response this car is killing me and I need it going again so this help is very much appreaciated.

[Bims328i]

Electrical connection issues can always be difficult to diagnose in cars. You might have some luck blasting most of that corrosion away with high power air. Maybe even a fresh duster.

All in all it may require some delicate replacement of pins with some wire crimping.

If you could perhaps use a small precision flat head to carefully clean the surface corrosion off the pins might help.

The female portion of the interconnect is more tricky to fix. More than likely, you can remove each pin then maybe replace some bad ones but it would be wise to take a picture of the incoming wires before trying to remove any of them from the interconnect housing.

This way you can maybe fix some of the connecting female couplers that reside within the plastic interconnect surrounding the pin when connected.

You could maybe blast that stuff out with compressed air while the pinned section of the interconnect (male) is likely imbedded within a connector. If it is not embedded in the plastic you can probably extract the specific pin, find a replacement and re-insert it into the male interconnect fixture.

[wdwyerr516]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

Electrical connection issues can always be difficult to diagnose in cars. You might have some luck blasting most of that corrosion away with high power air. Maybe even a fresh duster.

All in all it may require some delicate replacement of pins with some wire crimping.

If you could perhaps use a small precision flat head to carefully clean the surface corrosion off the pins might help.

The female portion of the interconnect is more tricky to fix. More than likely, you can remove each pin then maybe replace some bad ones but it would be wise to take a picture of the incoming wires before trying to remove any of them from the interconnect housing.

This way you can maybe fix some of the connecting female couplers that reside within the plastic interconnect surrounding the pin when connected.

You could maybe blast that stuff out with compressed air while the pinned section of the interconnect (male) is likely imbedded within a connector. If it is not embedded in the plastic you can probably extract the specific pin, find a replacement and re-insert it into the male interconnect fixture.

Yeah that’s the plan I think for now at least. I’ve just pulled the module out and will be cleaning it/replacing pin’s tomorrow.
On the plus side when I attempt to start the car without the module it seems to have the same symptoms, so it seems be the module most likely.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Damn how does corrosion even happen in the location? It's inside right.

[wdwyerr516]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Damn how does corrosion even happen in the location? It's inside right.

Yeah it’s inside the plug, but my seal on the windshield was ruined and I didn’t realise and well the rest is history lmao.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by wdwyerr516

Yeah it’s inside the plug, but my seal on the windshield was ruined and I didn’t realise and well the rest is history lmao.

Ahh okay. Yeah meant inside that it's not exposed to the elements but I understand in your situation now. Good to know... hopefully you can resolve it easily.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by wdwyerr516

... NL26475. I've attached a Operations report due to there being too many to screenshot.

If "NO Crank": Starter NOT being activated by CAS when START Button is pressed along with Clutch: then CAS, Starter, or wiring between the two is FIRST thing to DIAGNOSE. If you are new to ISTA, please read the pdf I attached to Post #4: "Fault Memory & Test Plan", particularly the parts about getting Fault Details (Section V), and viewing Live Data (Section VII).

Your 'Operations Report' only shows ONE Fault Code: "A0AA Control-Unit Fault" for CAS Module. I would do the following:
0) See pdf Section VIII for procedure on saving & attaching ScreenPrints;
1) Check Fault Memory again to make sure only A0AA appears in CAS Fault Memory; update info if other CAS Faults;
2) View/Save/Post Fault Details for A0AA & any other CAS fault (pdf Sec. V)
3) Using procedure in pdf Sec. VII, connect to CAS Module, and use "Diagnosis scan" tab to view Live Data. You want to select the "Terminals" ECU Function. Then, with Ignition ON, view ALL CAS Terminal Voltages, Terminal 15, Wakeup through Terminal R.
4) At Same screen, Now press START Button with Foot on Clutch and see if Terminal 50 Voltage and Amps Current values change when Button pushed. If CAS were working correctly KL50 Voltage should be ~ 2V less than battery voltage BEFORE Crank attempt, and KL50 Amps should be in 10-Amp range.
5) Also, as a "Sanity Check", please Save/Attach a ScreenPrint of Control Unit Tree. We EXPECT 4 Red Modules (NO Communication).

If any questions on HOW to do any of the above, please ask. If the car had suffered any water damage, please describe when, how, steps taken to remedy. I'm NOT aware of vehicle history (when it last started/ ran, and what has happened to it/ been done to it SINCE. That would be helpful to "other-side-of-world Diagnosis.

When you provide ScreenPrints of (1) Fault Details for CAS Fault(s), and (2) Live Data of CAS Terminal Voltages per above, I will provide ISTA ScreenPrints of wiring for YOUR vehicle and Test suggestions. If you have NOT previously used ISTA as a "Desk Reference" for Documents such as wiring diagrams (SSP Docs), Component Locations, & Connector Views (showing Pin #ID), the attached pdf may help. You do NOT need to be connected to vehicle to view documents.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached is an example ScreenPrint from my 3/2007 328xi showing CAS Terminal Voltages, Ignition ON.
George

[wdwyerr516]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Attached is an example ScreenPrint from my 3/2007 328xi showing CAS Terminal Voltages, Ignition ON.
George

Hi, so a bit of background of the car is that it has been owned by my father and has been sitting for years due to illness, the car has had a water leak due to worn seals of which I have replaced. The car last run 2 Years ago when I tried to get him back into it and I jumpstarted it took it for a drive then turned it off attempted to jump start again and wouldn't start and hasn't started since, Since then he has passed the car to me to fix due to lack of motivation for the car and headaches its caused him.

I have so far figured out that the CAS is receiving power by putting a copper wire between pin 21 & 22 I believe and that cranked the starter, so no problem there. I tested all relays and fuses, and am now finding that corrosion and broken pins on the JBE module which I have removed and will be buying a new one tomorrow.

As for the CAS codes the Codes have stayed the same and have been scanned 3 times over 3 separate days with the battery full charge with no change to anything on ISTA

yes you would be correct to assume that 4 modules are Not communicating, I've attached the Control Unit Tree.

I've attached also the Fault Details you asked for 00A0AA which was the only CAS fault (I think I did it right?)

As for Checking Voltage as of posting this its 5am so I'll check it later today and reply to THIS post with a photo of the CAS Voltage test.

Thank you Massively for the help!

Kind Regards

(2 Attached Photos 1 Control unit tree, 2 A0AA Fault details)