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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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strange issue with b+ VVT lead to rear
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08-22-2023, 02:29 PM | #1 |
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Drives: E46 330ci, e92 328i
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Ontario, Canada
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strange issue with b+ VVT lead to rear
Hello folks. I’m having a strange problem with my 2007 bmw 328i (e92)
I’ve had it for 3 years and had some intermittent issues with my radio not turning on. Did some poking around about a year ago and noticed the transfer points beside the battery…. was horrified to discover the smaller cable to the left which I later learned to be the VVT b+ cable was nearly rotted out and green from corrosion. When I attempted to remove the nut to clean everything up, it disintegrated to dust 😂 had to get a new nut from Home Depot. (The bigger cable and nut is kinda rusted, but not nearly as bad as the smaller one, and wasn’t looking to chance that one turning to dust, so I left it alone) I did this to see if it would resolve the issue with my radio but obviously this was for the VVT so it didn’t help, but please keep this in mind, it will be an important detail later. Now recently (about 3 weeks ago) my car was misfiring so bad it sounded like a rotary engine. My codes were for valvetronic plausibility and misfire in cylinder 5, so I decided to go ahead and do a big overhaul and replace both the ESS and the valve cover since it was cracked. After putting everything back together, the car would crank but wouldn’t start. Initially I thought the problem was that I pinched a wire in one of the wiring harnesses (I double triple checked every ground and terminal to make sure everything was tight and even cleaned the bigger wire post due to seeing a little corrosion) and my work schedule is too crazy to pinpoint that problem, so I ended up having my car towed to an Indy shop. The mechanic at the Indy shop ran some tests and thought the ESS was the problem since there was no power being supplied to it, and it checked out to me because I bought an aftermarket one (not by VDO/Siemens 🤦🏾‍♂️), so I had the mechanic take everything apart again and reinstall a correct VDO sensor from rock auto. Now this is where things get weird… I’m guessing the car didn’t start after the sensor was reinstalled, so he panicked and started tinkering around managed to find his way back to that b+ VVT transfer point. He said he had to repair it and (added shrink wrap?) and that it was 90% of my problem… but as mentioned before, I was already down there and had it cleaned up, and there has never been water in the battery compartment, so did it rot again that fast? Now it starts and is running rough, I am always in limp mode. I am still getting plausibility and power supply codes related to VVT. The battery is good Fuses and relays are good The junction box above my battery with the high voltage fuses has continuity I’m annoyed, any suggestions? Ps, I took a look under the car and sure enough, the VVT wire has been worked on. Could this seriously be the root of my problem? Does this entire unit need to be changed, or can I rework it? Also, would anyone be able to point me to a DIY for this? |
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