|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Today's Posts | Search |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
Cranks/No Start/ABS Trifecta. Solved.
|
|
10-02-2023, 12:48 PM | #46 |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
Hey George. Its been a while, I moved. I pulled the cluster out and looked at the pins today, they all looked nice and clean. I did the same with the other connector on the front of the JBE thing. Ill attach some photos.
I'm not very knowledgeable with wiring diagrams/troubleshooting. Should I get a voltmeter and try to test for voltages? Please let me know what to check next, thanks. |
Appreciate
1
StradaRedlands5953.50 |
10-05-2023, 02:28 PM | #47 |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
Ok guys. I need help here. I did some thinking. I looked at my Carly codes. I’m basically only throwing one code now and it’s for “Dynamic Management.” It says “faulty, receiver LDM, transmitter KOMBI.
LDM is I believe Longitudinal Dynamics Management, which is cruise control? My cruise control works, unless I hit the DTC button. I’m wondering if I’m having an issue with the yaw sensor. It’s at the bottom of the car under the ds seat, so maybe water got in through my leaky garage roof/sunroof. Might be the wheel speed sensor rubbing? Lmk if that sounds promising. |
Appreciate
0
|
10-07-2023, 01:10 PM | #48 |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
Ok, I cleared my error memory and Carly is only throwing a 002C9F.
DME: Oxygen sensor heater 2 after catalytic converter: Activation. I think this is related to the DME giving ground to the 02 heater? I installed a header so maybe the 02 wiring got damaged somehow? I'm going to try to check the voltages on it, I need to buy a cheap voltmeter. I can see the stats for the lambda probes in INPA, but I don't really know what I'm looking for honestly. If anyone is familiar with this please chime in, I really want to figure this out. |
Appreciate
0
|
10-07-2023, 02:49 PM | #49 | |
First Lieutenant
113
Rep 350
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
1
VehementCrom177.00 |
10-09-2023, 01:17 PM | #51 |
First Lieutenant
113
Rep 350
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-10-2023, 04:03 PM | #52 |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
I'm just frustrated. I miss the old forum days when people were around.
I noticed that my DS rear wheel speed sensor, that the inside face got damaged a little by rust, or something. The other side had some damage on the bottom. I tried the washer trick and cleaning up the hubs a little. I started the car, and opened INPA, and I can see all 4 wheel speed sensors reading the same. When I roll the car forward and back anyways, I haven't tested them while driving yet. I think I'm going to clear the modules, clean up the rear hubs as best I can, and replace them. I'm also going to take the O2 sensor out and inspect the wiring harness on that plug. |
Appreciate
1
yielo2.50 |
10-10-2023, 04:21 PM | #53 | |
First Lieutenant
113
Rep 350
Posts |
Quote:
That being said, in regards to your wheel speed sensors, "if it aint broke dont fix it", unless you want to for your own peace of mind which is understandable. Getting that 02 sensor changed out is definitely more beneficial otherwise you'll start to lean out and possibly grenade your engine. Last edited by SlowE92; 10-10-2023 at 04:27 PM.. |
|
Appreciate
1
VehementCrom177.00 |
04-23-2024, 07:18 PM | #54 |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
Hey guys. Been a while.
I put a 3.64 rear end in the car and got it running again. I also replaced the 02 sensors and looked at the wiring. I’m still getting the ABS/DSC/BRAKE light errors/ cluster resets(turns off completely aside from RPM). CC works. Traction control works. The car drives fine and it happens when: A:Key on vehicle not started. B.Vehicle running at a stop. I’m not exactly sure what to check next, or how to check. Here are the codes after the battery disconnect and replacing all 4 O2 sensors. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-26-2024, 01:40 PM | #57 |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
New codes. I’m not sure what they mean though. E444/E447 from the previous post are from me putting sport seats in the car, I think maybe I need the white box from under the original seats?
|
Appreciate
0
|
04-28-2024, 12:23 PM | #59 |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
I cleared all the codes in INPA.
Except for one. The car won’t let my clear the LDM 00D030 code. I’m going to check fuse 22 which I think is for that. Any ideas why I can’t clear the one code? I got 20$ PayPal to whoever steers me into a solution. I’ve owned this beautiful 330i for 5 years but she’s been off the road for 3 years now. |
Appreciate
0
|
04-29-2024, 11:57 AM | #61 | |||
Brigadier General
2991
Rep 4,348
Posts |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
1) I presume the engine now fires & runs when cranked, and you no longer have any CAS issues? 2) What Warning Lights appear on Instrument Cluster? ABS? DSC? BRAKE (RED)? Other? 3) KOMBI/ Instrument Cluster sometimes turns OFF (goes blank) except for Tach? 4) When Cluster goes blank it is always when engine is either (a) OFF; or (b) at idle RPM? 5) Cluster NEVER goes blank when driving at > 2,000 RPM? 6) If, while vehicle stationary/ in Park, you increase RPM to 2,000 RPM, does cluster "turn on"/ function properly? If answers to the KOMBI questions 3 - 6 are YES, then you likely have a corroded Bus Connector, or a Loose Socket, Damaged Pin, or wiring damage in/at one of the K-CAN Bus Connectors: (a) at the rear of the KOMBI, or (b) where KOMBI connects to JBE. I attach ISTA ScreenPrints of KOMBI Wiring & Connector View for those two connectors to NEXT Post. Easiest Steps FIRST: 1) Remove Fuse F58 (5A), test electrically (0 Ohms resistance between fuse spades), and inspect fuse spades & Sockets for corrosion. If that restores KOMBI function with Ignition ON (Engine OFF), then you're DONE. If NOT so lucky, continue below. 2) Remove Cluster per Procedure attached to NEXT Post; 3) Test for Battery Voltage at X11175/9 Red wire; 4) Test for continuity to Chassis Ground at X11175/18 Brown/Black wire, with IGNITION ON. 5) Visual Inspection of the Wiring, Sockets & Pins at KOMBI connector X11175/6, Orange/Green Bus wire, & X11175/7, Green Bus wire. Clean pins & Sockets with Electronic Contact Cleaner, reassemble & test function of KOMBI, Ignition ON, Engine OFF. 6) If still NO JOY, remove Black Connector X14272 from JBE beneath Glovebox, & conduct SAME inspection & cleaning of X14272/29, Orange/Green wire, & X14272/31, Green wire. Please let us know what you find, or if any questions. George |
|||
Appreciate
0
|
04-29-2024, 03:18 PM | #63 | |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
Quote:
It’s the brake light, DTC light, ABS Light, and the traction control light. They all come on yellow. They flash on, and then the cluster dies immediately for a second. I thought the rpm was staying on, but it’s also turning off. Everything blacks out for a second. This happens with the key in, ignition on. It will happen before I start the engine. It also happens after I start it. As soon as you start moving it stops. It never happens when driving. You can rev the car up over 2k and it just runs as normal. I haven’t been able to find a trigger for the lights. The light errors will keep happening on an interval, and the cluster dies the same way every time. Weirdly, if I disconnect the battery or reset the codes, the lights don’t come on for a bit, but they always come back eventually. The car drives like it should otherwise. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
05-06-2024, 08:54 AM | #65 | |
Second Lieutenant
177
Rep 271
Posts |
Quote:
Do you think this could be the cause of these issues, or is it more likely a problem with the wiring elsewhere? |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
|
|