[flyinb501]

Originally Posted by zmon1300

Pictures look good. Just make sure its tight and you cannot wiggle it with moderate force. As long as it is tight and not moving, you're good to go!

Z

It feels tight, but I think that is because of the tension on the other end of it. If I grab it by the BOV to removed tension I am able to wiggle it a decent amount...

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

We generally recommend squeezing the chargepipe onto the TB and then applying the clip. Also some clips tend to wear or bend after being removed so many times so it may be a good idea to either squeeze it a bit to shorten the width or purchase a new one.

The OEM C-clip is 10000x better than a coupler and clamp on this application. The OEM TB doesn't have a bead meaning you have no way of creating a guaranteed seal on the TB side.

That makes sense. I did squeeze the c clip before re-installing.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by flyinb501

It feels tight, but I think that is because of the tension on the other end of it. If I grab it by the BOV to removed tension I am able to wiggle it a decent amount...

A bit of wiggle is fine as long as you used the o-ring we supply. The o-ring creates the seal, not the metal

[BozoBlaster]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

A bit of wiggle is fine as long as you used the o-ring we supply. The o-ring creates the seal, not the metal

Not to bring up an old thread but I haven't seen many recent posts about this issue. I am experiencing the same symptoms wiggly against the TB and when I start to make low boost sometimes my BOV doesn't actuate and I can hear what sounds like a goose quietly dieing in my engine bay which is I am assuming boost leaking out of where the CP connects to the TB, have the o ring seated properly, took off the CP and squeezed the c-clamp down and now it wiggles less but I'm still having the same issue. I did like the silicone coupler idea but as Tiago stated there aren't raised nipples on the TB side of the connection and has the potential to separate, still think I might try this route since I can just make sure the power steering reservoir has something wedged in between it and the CP so the CP can't move away from the TB. Another route I though of was trying to find another o-ring that had the same diameter but thicker to try and fill in the gap more between the CP and TB.

[335xirookie]

Make sure you have the square stock clip not the round one...
Also check your couplers for tiny holes...

[BozoBlaster]

I did the silicone coupler from the charge pipe to the throttle body but with t- bar clamps instead of the more reliable hose clamps and immediately after my first pull I heard a loud pop sound, then no boost at all. Because there are no raised ends on either side I decided to wedge rubber pads in between the opposite side of the charge pipe and fender well, see in attached photo, with a thick, large zip tie (called panduit strap, usually used to hold flexible HVAC ductwork together) that goes through all the rubber pads and around the charge pipe holding them in place and preventing the charge pipe to move away from the throttle body and disconnecting. Have had this setup since the beginning of June with absolutely no issues other than looking like a hillbilly fix.