[zooy0rkx]

I checked around and couldn't find a thread that would give me the answers to what i was looking for. I have an issue where one of my main cables has corroded on the innerside wheel well behind passenger tire. I plan to just tie the cables in together but i was hoping someone may have a lead on a new Lug for it?

[TunafishE93]

Part number 61129125036 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ad-61129125036

[zooy0rkx]

i was hoping just to splice in a wire and run the rest of the way up to the battery but im guessing thats not a part you can buy

[gbalthrop]

You do NOT need to replace Both, or Either, of the two B+ Cables that run beneath the vehicle from the "Transfer Points" in front of the Battery. That would be a LOT of work for NOTHING, NOT to mention the Expen$e.

You DO need to replace that Transfer Point. It is an insulated Stud that passes through the Chassis in front of the battery. I assume from your photos that the one that has rusted is the Smaller, INBOARD Cable, that is the B+ supply to the VVT Relay in the E-box. The LARGER, OUTBOARD B+ Cable is the Supply to the Jumpstart Terminal, Alternator & Starter. If you had water in the battery well, which caused the Inboard VVT Transfer Point to Rust, the Outboard Starter Supply Transfer Point is likely well-rusted too. Check that carefully BEFORE you order parts.

The Part you need to replace ONE Transfer Point is 61139321691, and here are links to TWO examples. Although there are TWO Cable Attachments in the Kit, those are ONLY for ONE Transfer Point Repair. One attachment is for Aluminum Cable option, and the other is for Copper Cable option.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...b/61139321691/
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...13-61139321691

If you want the ISTA Procedure for installing the Repair Kit, let me know and I'll post it.
George

[zooy0rkx]

Dude thats perfect, yeah could you post the ista guide? it would be much appreciated. Also their was no water in the battery tray, it looks as if this was where everything was concentrated, I just started getting random codes and i do have ista (but am quite unfamiliar with it) but when i did a read on that circuit it didnt have communication from there and i have whacky sporadic lights coming on the dash. Thats when i saw that and it was pretty much crumbling in my hands as i took it off

[ctuna]

diagnostic manual ista/inpa
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...xo19teM9vkTF-C
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...7x8H3pN8h1fMuF
https://bimmerprofs.com/diagnostics-inpa-part-1/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...lkXEhlQYy4i9Nb
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-P-actually-do
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...1&d=1590283589
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...kBbC27TJLX3BGe
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...WekqhcC6hsgK2c
primary links
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681573
https://www.nathansbmwworkshop.com/b...or-dean-videos
ista problems
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1661945
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1581663

some of these may help understanding and using diagnostics.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by zooy0rkx

... could you post the ista guide? it would be much appreciated... i do have ista (but am quite unfamiliar with it)...

Rather than post 8 screenprints of the LONG procedure, since you have ISTA installed, I'll just explain HOW to view it on your computer. I'll list each step so ANYONE who has never used ISTA can follow it. This is done WITHOUT being connected to vehicle, and is simply a search for Documents/ Info on your HD in the ISTA+ Program:

1) At opening ISTA Screen, click "Operations" Menu Button at Top-Left;
2) "Input VIN" box appears: Enter Last-7 Characters of your VIN; OR you could simply click the "Basic Features" Tab and enter 3 Series/E90/328xi, etc;
3) "Vehicle Information | Vehicle Details" Screen appears: Click "Vehicle Management" Menu Button on top Menu row, and then "Troubleshooting" Sub-menu;
4) SIX Active Tabs are Now Available from which you can: Input Fault Code, Text Search, Component info search, etc. I would suggest taking several hours to learn what can be accessed using EACH of those tabs (later ;-)
5) For NOW: Click "Text Search" Tab: "Search string" box appears; make sure first two Search criteria boxes are "X" checked (standard search);
6) Enter "transfer point" in search box; press "Enter" key or click "Start Search" button;

We interrupt this program to bring you an important announcement: THE TRICK to using Text Search is to learn the CORRECT WORDS to enter. In this case, entering "repair kit" would have yielded 3 "Hits", including the desired procedure. Entering "B+" gives 4 Hits, NONE of which is this procedure. If you are searching for Power Supply of a Module or component, if you simply entered "power supply" you would get ~70+ hits (depending upon vehicle), with ~ 25 different SSP wiring diagrams for different Modules or Components, showing fuses, grounds, etc.

7) REP type Document "Fitting repair kit for positive battery lead transfer point" appears in the "Hit List"; Double-click that item row;
8) Eight-Screen Procedure appears; any Safety Documents or "Preliminary Procedures" appear as links which you can click for more information;
9) Document Navigation: The ToolBar (Icon Bar) at Top of ISTA Screen has "Operations" button on Left (Home icon), with "History" button to Right, with Fwd/Back Arrow keys on either side of "History" button, to view/ Navigate other documents opened, so you can browse the links and quickly return to desired document. All documents opened remain in History until deleted or Operation Closed.
10) If you want to see information on a different model, you can click the Operations Icon and then "OK" to Close operation. You then are returned to Home Screen and can either Exit Program, or start a NEW Operation with different vehicle info.
11) You can also have multiple instances of ISTA running at once. My Lenovo Laptop has 16GB RAM upgrade and I often have 2 or 3 instances of ISTA running at same time, along with OTHER programs. I'm sure there is a limit, and I would suspect it is RAM-dependent, but haven't seen such limit YET.

Don't be afraid to experiment with ISTA Menu, Sub-menu and Tab buttons, particularly when NOT CONNECTED to vehicle.

ISTA User Guide:
See the "?" in the ISTA ToolBar? Clicking that opens a 52-page pdf titled "ISTA User Guide". That Guide is intended for BMW Dealer shop folks who have the entire System including BMW Web access. To learn about standalone computer use, begin at "1.4 General operation of the application" at bottom of page 5 of the pdf.

ACTUALLY, the BEST place to begin is at page 48 of the pdf, with the discussion of the "Menus" & Toolbar Icons and what functions each performs. Then skip back to pdf page 45 to see a Table with ELEVEN different Document or Information Types, and what each abbreviation stands for, such as FUB for Functional Description = How a System Works generally.

German Engineers TRIED to educate Anglo-speaking Techs, or at least leave them an easy-to-follow "Trail of Breadcrumbs".
George

[zooy0rkx]

Dude this is such a help, i cant thank you enough. Thanks again!

[Conshap]

Originally Posted by zooy0rkx

I checked around and couldn't find a thread that would give me the answers to what i was looking for. I have an issue where one of my main cables has corroded on the innerside wheel well behind passenger tire. I plan to just tie the cables in together but i was hoping someone may have a lead on a new Lug for it?

So I am having the same issue and am in a bit of a pickle because the connection was so corroded that the connector broke right off the wire. Any advice on how to get a replacement connector or will I have to reweld a new female crimp connector? Can I just weld on one that is close to the original? I already have the kit BMW Rep. Cable B+ - Genuine BMW 61139321691. Thank you for any help!

[Captain Buumer]

Solder with fire?
That's what i would do to heat up the copper this size.

I don't really understand the BMW solution for this transfer point that will always fail eventually.

i got the "BMW recall fix" couple of years ago and i can already see it is slowly starting to corrode again.

So i have to deal with it again eventually.

Why not just extend the wire through the body - this way there won't be this exposed part.

[Bmwguyosk]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

You do NOT need to replace Both, or Either, of the two B+ Cables that run beneath the vehicle from the "Transfer Points" in front of the Battery. That would be a LOT of work for NOTHING, NOT to mention the Expen$e.

You DO need to replace that Transfer Point. It is an insulated Stud that passes through the Chassis in front of the battery. I assume from your photos that the one that has rusted is the Smaller, INBOARD Cable, that is the B+ supply to the VVT Relay in the E-box. The LARGER, OUTBOARD B+ Cable is the Supply to the Jumpstart Terminal, Alternator & Starter. If you had water in the battery well, which caused the Inboard VVT Transfer Point to Rust, the Outboard Starter Supply Transfer Point is likely well-rusted too. Check that carefully BEFORE you order parts.

The Part you need to replace ONE Transfer Point is 61139321691, and here are links to TWO examples. Although there are TWO Cable Attachments in the Kit, those are ONLY for ONE Transfer Point Repair. One attachment is for Aluminum Cable option, and the other is for Copper Cable option.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...b/61139321691/
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...13-61139321691

If you want the ISTA Procedure for installing the Repair Kit, let me know and I'll post it.
George

I'm looking at the document on ISTA and it says "ONLY remove the wire on the right" Which is the Thicker wire (looking from inside the trunk), and everyone is having problems with the thinner wire on the left; my question is, are u sure the repair kit works for both wires? are the grommets the same diameter and everything the same size for both connectors? a lot of people have been doing the job on that wire and it looks like mostly e90s/e92s from my recent research, and the job on ista is for E91 which likely has a bit more space.

I'm just curious if anyone has fit that REPAIR B+ Kit on the smaller wire.
Is that what it means by copper/alu , like the fatter wire is ALU and the thinner is Copper, which is why the rust is enhanced on the thinner wire to begin with?

Cheers bro.