[NZE90]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

So if I just take my bad FRM and send it out to get it fixed I should be able to back in business or do you think I might still have other issues?

Yes, that should work. The car was working fine before this wasn't it?
What were you trying to do with ISTA P when the module failed?

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by NZE90

Yes, that should work. The car was working fine before this wasn't it?
What were you trying to do with ISTA P when the module failed?

Yes it was. Again here is a little background: I did pulll the TPM module a while back like a year ago and coded the car to give warning when tires are low using the abs(common code) which was a success and operated perfectly. I also pulled the fuse that controls the seat belt assist for my E92 (very annoying feature)

I used Ista-p which I realize now was a bad choice should have used Ista-d. Anyways I was chasing a O2 sensor code and while it was pulling my vehicles info. It was actually identifying fitted control modules. when I suddenly heard dong at my instrument cluster. I believe the cause was low battery voltage. here is Pic of that screen by the way. At that point I immediately pulled the cable from my obd2 port because I figured Ista might be harming my car. I noticed the 2 codes on my cluster CC-ID 354 and CC-ID 231. I disconnected the battery for 30min hopping that those codes would clear but they never did and are still there. Since then I went ahead and replaced the battery with a very good H-8 AGM battery. The car actually runs very well right now. Just the codes are present and of course my driver side window is in down position.

What do you think?

[NZE90]

Should be fine then.

[Tali]

DISCLAIMER - I’m pretty sure the dealership tech’s do not/can not run ISTA-P in EXPERT MODE - which explains what i say below for those who are familiar with expert mode in ISTA-P.

Okay so in case it wasn’t said already OP, ISTA-P (the program the technician is going to use to flash the new FRM3 to the latest ZB number (if necessary) and to default code the module to your cars VO/VIN) - will complain if your vehicle order and available control units/modules do not match up.

Question1: did you remove the TPMS sensing via the RDC module from your Vehicle Order(VO) using NCSExpert? EDIT - I noticed in your ISTAp screen shot VO code $265 - TPMS is still there so that needs to be removed from your VO using NCSExpert, OR your RDC modules fuses need to be put back and the module plugged back in if its disconnected.

Q2: did you unplug the RDC module?
Q3 - did you code-out the seatbelt assist function from your car and also rrmove the fuse or just remove the fuse? And also, does this feature have a corresponding VO code in ylur VO which is stored in your FRM(which is down) and CAS (yoy can check the CAS becaus its still communicating).

I suggest you ask the ServiceAdvisor (SA) to let you speak to the Tech. Tell him what you told us about the Tpms module, the fuse removal, etc. this will save him time, and more importantly it will save YOU MONEY 💰💰 because i guarantee he is confused AF right now and his dealership version of ISTA is not letting him do what needs to be done to the FRM because of the other errors.

ask them to let you take the car home and undo that shit and bring it back if necessary, or undo it wherever it is parked at the dealership, but do it with the car running so your battery does not die again. You cannot do everything with the car running but coding those modules in NCSExpert you can.

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

I was under the impression that they do the FRM programming on the vehicle only using ISTA and that is what the problem is that it’s not responding in ISTA.


That if I get my old FRM unbricked using a outside source (eBay) that then it will just be plug and play and then it will open the communication in ISTA.

So you think that I might have a inexperienced tech and that they should be able to just do the programming?

I’m referring to the screenshot you sent. It shows that the FRM is not communicating, which is normal with a bricked FM. A new one should be communicating barring any other issues.

IF the only problem is your bricked FRM, then you should be able to send it off and get the EEPROM reprogrammed and be back in business minus the problem with your comfort access module. That is a different issue, but it’s hard to tell what just based off a screenshot on your laptop.

The only downside is that in sending it off you will no longer be able to get it replaced by the dealer because it will be working.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by Tali

DISCLAIMER - I’m pretty sure the dealership tech’s do not/can not run ISTA-P in EXPERT MODE - which explains what i say below for those who are familiar with expert mode in ISTA-P.

Okay so in case it wasn’t said already OP, ISTA-P (the program the technician is going to use to flash the new FRM3 to the latest ZB number (if necessary) and to default code the module to your cars VO/VIN) - will complain if your vehicle order and available control units/modules do not match up.

Question1: did you remove the TPMS sensing via the RDC module from your Vehicle Order(VO) using NCSExpert? EDIT - I noticed in your ISTAp screen shot VO code $265 - TPMS is still there so that needs to be removed from your VO using NCSExpert, OR your RDC modules fuses need to be put back and the module plugged back in if its disconnected.

Q2: did you unplug the RDC module?
Q3 - did you code-out the seatbelt assist function from your car and also rrmove the fuse or just remove the fuse? And also, does this feature have a corresponding VO code in ylur VO which is stored in your FRM(which is down) and CAS (yoy can check the CAS becaus its still communicating).

I suggest you ask the ServiceAdvisor (SA) to let you speak to the Tech. Tell him what you told us about the Tpms module, the fuse removal, etc. this will save him time, and more importantly it will save YOU MONEY 💰💰 because i guarantee he is confused AF right now and his dealership version of ISTA is not letting him do what needs to be done to the FRM because of the other errors.

ask them to let you take the car home and undo that shit and bring it back if necessary, or undo it wherever it is parked at the dealership, but do it with the car running so your battery does not die again. You cannot do everything with the car running but coding those modules in NCSExpert you can.

Thank you so much for taking the time 🙏

Answers:
1) yes I did try to take out the TPM via RDC from the work order using NCSExpert . At least I thought I did it right. I did however add a code to make the TPM work via the speeds sensor on the ABS. Maybe that why it still shows up? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
There wasn’t a fuse for the TPM that I removed from the fuse box at least not that I can remember.

2) Yes I did find and unplug the RDC module.

3) I thought I coded out the seatbelt assist also in addition to removing the fuse which is the only fuse I remember ever removing. I would like to have a way of seeing all the coding that I have done to make sure they were all done right but I wouldn’t even know how to find that info. So that CAS Module is still communicating ha and might have that info?

I really don’t know how accommodating they are likely to be with me at this point. The car is probably lifted in their shop and they are not likely to let me near it there unless they take it out.

I can deliver the RDC module and tell them that I removed it. If they simply plugging back in would solve all the issues that would be great but I don’t know that I would be in the right environment/setting to attempt to do any coding there as I usually have it do so much research before I can make the simplest coding using NCSExpert. What you can do in 2-3 min is a full day project for me lol!

The dealer would have to agree to let me take the car home to do this stuff.

[NZE90]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Thank you so much for taking the time ��

Answers:
1) yes I did try to take out the TPM via RDC from the work order using NCSExpert . At least I thought I did it right. I did however add a code to make the TPM work via the speeds sensor on the ABS. Maybe that why it still shows up? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
There wasn’t a fuse for the TPM that I removed from the fuse box at least not that I can remember.

2) Yes I did find and unplug the RDC module.

3) I thought I coded out the seatbelt assist also in addition to removing the fuse which is the only fuse I remember ever removing. I would like to have a way of seeing all the coding that I have done to make sure they were all done right but I wouldn’t even know how to find that info. So that CAS Module is still communicating ha and might have that info?

I really don’t know how accommodating they are likely to be with me at this point. The car is probably lifted in their shop and they are not likely to let me near it there unless they take it out.

I can deliver the RDC module and tell them that I removed it. If they simply plugging back in would solve all the issues that would be great but I don’t know that I would be in the right environment/setting to attempt to do any coding there as I usually have it do so much research before I can make the simplest coding using NCSExpert. What you can do in 2-3 min is a full day project for me lol!

The dealer would have to agree to let me take the car home to do this stuff.

You still have the issue of the comfort access module not communicating, so they won't be able to do anything until that is also fixed. Did you unplug that one as well, or is that an unknown problem?

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by NZE90

You still have the issue of the comfort access module not communicating, so they won't be able to do anything until that is also fixed. Did you unplug that one as well, or is that an unknown problem?

No I never physically touched the Comfort Access Module. I’m glad you mentioned that because I went ahead and bit the bullet paid the diagnostic fee (lowered to $199). And picked up the car. I still wondered if I did the right thing because I thought what if I had just offered to plug in RDC (tpm)module, would that have opened all communications and allowed them to finish the job which in turn would have help me with Extended warranty picked up the tab…. But if you think the Comfort Access would have still been an obstacle then I won’t think about that anymore.

I got the car now and plan on pulling out the FRM and sending it to be serviced. I just pray that when I get it back it will be a simple plug and play and the car will be back to normal with CID codes gone too 🙏

[e91Owner]

The faults pertaining to the FRM should go away unless the FRM was physically damaged. The other faults you posted won’t necessarily go away, particularly the ones that are related to things you have broken.

It would be valuable for you to take some time and learn your way around ISTA-D, since you have it. You seem to have taken the opposite approach of most in coding your car with ISTA-P before learning how to fix it.

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

The faults pertaining to the FRM should go away unless the FRM was physically damaged. The other faults you posted won’t necessarily go away, particularly the ones that are related to things you have broken.

It would be valuable for you to take some time and learn your way around ISTA-D, since you have it. You seem to have taken the opposite approach of most in coding your car with ISTA-P before learning how to fix it.

Yeah I’ll take things one step at a time. Get the FRM up and running and see what on earth the CID-231 & CID-354 even is. I never had them until my FRM went down. I’ve never used ISTA-P to code, only NCSEXPERT. I got ISTA+ a while back and it included ISTA-P. A year had past since I hit them and I had forgotten that I shouldn’t even do much with ISTA-P unless I have the proper power supply. I should have just used ISTA-D. Anyways yeah I’ll take it step by step. I don’t really need Comfort Access to work it’s not that useful to me but I also don’t want it to cause my dash to have these CID codes. It prevents me from seeing my mpg which I do like. I’m looking into a battery maintainer now. Is 20 amps enough? Here is a link

https://a.co/d/9yYL8Pj

What do you think?

Also I might as well upgrade from D+CAN cable so that I can use ISTA properly. Is there one you would recommend that won’t break the bank?

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Yeah I’ll take things one step at a time. Get the FRM up and running and see what on earth the CID-231 & CID-354 even is. I never had them until my FRM went down. I’ve never used ISTA-P to code, only NCSEXPERT. I got ISTA+ a while back and it included ISTA-P. A year had past since I hit them and I had forgotten that I shouldn’t even do much with ISTA-P unless I have the proper power supply. I should have just used ISTA-D. Anyways yeah I’ll take it step by step. I don’t really need Comfort Access to work it’s not that useful to me but I also don’t want it to cause my dash to have these CID codes. It prevents me from seeing my mpg which I do like. I’m looking into a battery maintainer now. Is 20 amps enough? Here is a link

https://a.co/d/9yYL8Pj

What do you think?

Also I might as well upgrade from D+CAN cable so that I can use ISTA properly. Is there one you would recommend that won’t break the bank?

Many people (including me) use the k+dcan cable from bimmergeeks, mainly because it has a history of working. It is not the only option though. I rarely use ISTA actually hooked to my car because of the FRM issues it causes. Only when there is a procedure that I need to do that can only be done though it. For most other things, I have a handheld scanner (Innova 5610) that I use that can do 90% of what ISTA does and is not limited to BMWs. Like the cable, it’s one example of many.

I also have a Bluetooth dongle that I leave in the car for use with Carly in case something happens on the road away from my house. Lots of mobile phone options out there as well.

As far as the battery maintainer, search the threads and see what is recommended. I use a battery charger that I’ve had for 30 years for procedures like coolant bleeds, but I don’t need one for diagnostics typically.

[Salzamani]

Update on my FRM module repair, I pulled out the module sent it to a repair shop on eBay ($51) got it back plugged it in everything was fixed. Windows, lights, hazards, turn signals and even all start assist error was gone as it required the FRM to communicate. Don’t take your car into the dealer just do the repair yourself by sending it out to a repair place. This one came with a lifetime warranty too. Tough to beat.