[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

IF the heater core required replacement, is it the equivalent to gator-wrastlin' to remove/replace??

Need to pull the dash out.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Turned the heater on today (first time I’ve really needed it since I bought the car). It’s only hot on the driver side - lukewarm on the right middle vent, and cold on the passenger side one. I’m pretty sure whatever idiot owned the car previously used stop leak in the system at some point, as I found grayish residue in the expansion tank when I did the radiator. Outstanding.

Booking the car for a heater core flush. It’s like $320. Just hope I don’t lose heat on the driver side once it’s done…

It could be blend door malfunctions. Need to test them.

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

It could be blend door malfunctions. Need to test them.

No codes in ISTA, and the flap tests check out. Air goes to the right place, it’s just not warm everywhere.

There was someone else on the forum who had a semi-clogged heater core due to stop-leak, and they were able to resolve it with a heater core flush. I have no problem taking the dash out to do the core, but it’s venting the A/C that’s a problem, as apparently the car can’t be driven without refrigerant without damage to the system. Unless I’m mistaken.

[oVeRdOsE.]

today I went to the dealer for part for my 335 to 328 N54 swap.

And I spoke 30 min with techs about the project.

The guy is not convinced about this at all. Basically he told me the car will run, but will have tons of fault because of the FRM.
Especially if I start swapping sound system, steering and comfort.


I read a lot about this swap, and iirc , you swap the DME, CAS and cluster, and the car ''should'' start and run. no?

[tcphoto]

I washed, clayed and then used Chemical Guys v32 with a yellow pad on the hood and roof as a last gasp effort to eliminate the deep swirls left by the original owner. The compound did nothing noticeable and I'm resigned to getting the two panels resprayed.

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

today I went to the dealer for part for my 335 to 328 N54 swap.

And I spoke 30 min with techs about the project.

The guy is not convinced about this at all. Basically he told me the car will run, but will have tons of fault because of the FRM.
Especially if I start swapping sound system, steering and comfort.


I read a lot about this swap, and iirc , you swap the DME, CAS and cluster, and the car ''should'' start and run. no?

I think so as that is what controls the engine. Anything else is controlled by the FRM therefor your FRM unit should stay the same and operate the same if you're not messing with it? I have no experience with this just trying to rationalize it

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by tcphoto

I washed, clayed and then used Chemical Guys v32 with a yellow pad on the hood and roof as a last gasp effort to eliminate the deep swirls left by the original owner. The compound did nothing noticeable and I'm resigned to getting the two panels resprayed.

Have you tried to wet sand it and compound it?

[tcphoto]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

Have you tried to wet sand it and compound it?

I haven’t wet sanded, it’s a scary thing if you haven’t done it before. Perhaps I should think about it for awhile and watch a couple more YouTube videos on it.

[colorado.e9x]

Ove IIRC DME, CAS & key, Cluster is all that's required aside from the rest of the 335 specific parts. Update VO of CAS to match your car, then factory code FRM & Kombi using new CAS parameters.

I was looking into swapping an N54 into my 330 for a bit. The tech I was using mentioned I would need a very early model 335 for the swap, since 06 cars wiring is a little different than post 03/07 (I think) cars. Idk what year yours is, but I would imagine having a donor with a prod. date close to your car could be useful.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, its been quite awhile since I looked into it

What I did to my car today:
M3 Cowl Mod
MAYBE an oil change

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Ove IIRC DME, CAS & key, Cluster is all that's required aside from the rest of the 335 specific parts. Update VO of CAS to match your car, then factory code FRM & Kombi using new CAS parameters.

I was looking into swapping an N54 into my 330 for a bit. The tech I was using mentioned I would need a very early model 335 for the swap, since 06 cars wiring is a little different than post 03/07 (I think) cars. Idk what year yours is, but I would imagine having a donor with a prod. date close to your car could be useful.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, its been quite awhile since I looked into it

What I did to my car today:
M3 Cowl Mod
MAYBE an oil change

from other post, you need to send the cas to be coded to match VIN, and not mandatory, but no one told me why and what will be the issue. So from now, I understand there will be conflict with FRM? not so sure, I was under the impression it only control everything but the drivetrain.

Receiver : 2008 E91 xi, 6mt
donnor : 2009 E90 xi, 6mt

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

from other post, you need to send the cas to be coded to match VIN, and not mandatory, but no one told me why and what will be the issue. So from now, I understand there will be conflict with FRM? not so sure, I was under the impression it only control everything but the drivetrain.

Receiver : 2008 E91 xi, 6mt
donnor : 2009 E90 xi, 6mt

Interesting. Always thought coding CAS vin was possible with bmw standard tools/ProTool. Still probably fairly easy to find someone to do that for you though. I don't see why the FRM would have ANY issues at all. I have a 2009 335i FRM II in my 2007 (2006 prod date, FRM 1) 328xi. Factory coded it using CAS parameters and it works perfectly.

And I DID do my oil change guys

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

This image gives me panic attacks.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

today I went to the dealer for part for my 335 to 328 N54 swap.

And I spoke 30 min with techs about the project.

The guy is not convinced about this at all. Basically he told me the car will run, but will have tons of fault because of the FRM.
Especially if I start swapping sound system, steering and comfort.


I read a lot about this swap, and iirc , you swap the DME, CAS and cluster, and the car ''should'' start and run. no?

Seems that way. Lots of folks on these forums have done the swap with zero codes.

And FRM? That's the the tech is worried about? FRM is easily swap-able across different cars; any VIN can easily be coded to the FRM.

When you're done with the swap and get it working, go back to that tech and do a burnout at the dealership in front of him.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Seems that way. Lots of folks on these forums have done the swap with zero codes.

And FRM? That's the the tech is worried about? FRM is easily swap-able across different cars; any VIN can easily be coded to the FRM.

When you're done with the swap and get it working, go back to that tech and do a burnout at the dealership in front of him.

he seemed to know a lot about bmw.

other stuff he told me, and I was surprised, is about early N20 VS N55. he told me % wise and even quantity wise, they have a much more bigger fail list with N55 than N20. He told me he has numbers and it dont lies.
N20 was a much popular engine, and he didnt see much internet talk shit about one of the worst bmw engine.

I think simply N20 fails way after warranty, I mean there's a class action in US , no?

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

This image gives me panic attacks.

funny enough I felt the same when I was searching about this swap. I really wanted a fast manual wagon, and no way I was going stage 3 on my Audi 2.0T, too expensive for the power.

most people on forums stated this is was a easy swap, and then found 'bimmer barn' youtuber , and he make it look like very easy.

Annnnddd, it was the case. 6 bolts to get the engine out, dme harness, 3 hoses under the car, few coolant hose and wires and the transmission support and driveshaft. Engine was out.
In a weekend :
5-6h to remove front end and disconnect everything.
3-4h to remove the engine.

Even if you dont label everything, I dont think you can messup. I dont have a lot of ziplock bags,

Now part waiting is the worst, ordered clutch in May, cancel the order since it was too long, ordered with an other supplier. Still waiting.

Now fun part is to see if it will work. Because Ive changed a lot of stuff, including a brand new single turbo.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

Now fun part is to see if it will work. Because Ive changed a lot of stuff, including a brand new single turbo.

It will work. Maybe not out of the box, but you make it work. Unlike any other platform I know, we have tons of DIY programming tools. For the more complex coding that requires specialized ($$$) tools there are a lot of reputable people/shops who can help, like DME/CAS work.

SINGLE TURBO N54 wagon? Now that's going to be a fun car. Can't wait to see the finished project.

[KKevin]

Starting to wrap my M3 front bumper conversion, wasting wrap because im no good lol

[StradaRedlands]

If anyone needs to re-center after oVeRdOsE. engine swap, here's a calming image of my new tires.

Breath deep...



The 15% rebate from BMW CCA beats the Costco or other deals out there!

I'm thinking about some spacers to help fill out the wheel wells.

Thoughts?

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

If anyone needs to re-center after oVeRdOsE. engine swap, here's a calming image of my new tires.

Breath deep...



The 15% rebate from BMW CCA beats the Costco or other deals out there!

I'm thinking about some spacers to help fill out the wheel wells.

Thoughts?

Are those the Pilot Sport 5s? They just came out, right?

Depends on the spacers, though in my personal experience they can lead to vibration at speed. And our cars are sensitive to a proper balancing as it is…

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Are those the Pilot Sport 5s? They just came out, right?

Depends on the spacers, though in my personal experience they can lead to vibration at speed. And our cars are sensitive to a proper balancing as it is…

Pilot Sport All Season 4. I contemplated getting the 4S, but it's a commuter not a tracker.

And that's what I'm wondering... I don't need to add any more NVH to the car and I don't want to screw up the wheel bearings! But if there's a sweet spot in there, maaaaybe?

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Pilot Sport All Season 4. I contemplated getting the 4S, but it's a commuter not a tracker.

And that's what I'm wondering... I don't need to add any more NVH to the car and I don't want to screw up the wheel bearings! But if there's a sweet spot in there, maaaaybe?

greetings strada,
here's a quick 5 min read from the bimmerpost site re spacers:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1869932

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

greetings strada,
here's a quick 5 min read from the bimmerpost site re spacers:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1869932

Of course nothing is simple... /sigh.

[colorado.e9x]

StradaRedlands I use turner wheel spacers on my 330 and have never had balancing issues

They're a bit pricey at basically $100 a set, but comparing them to the $30 amazon spacers I had prior- I wish I had just bit the bullet to begin with