[pepsih]

Originally Posted by aleckzandr

Since you have no codes, first do plugs since it's cheap to do. 23k miles is a little high IMO, see mine at 33k.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=805162

I only have 37k miles total on my car right now. I'm going to do a walnut blast myself within 10k and post a DIY.

thx for the advice, i will try techron first, then the plugs. i have a busy schedule right now.
hopefully nothing serious happen on my next trip to boston loool.


there is a diy https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3Ta...aEE/edit?pli=1

but that would be nice if you can make one, i would like to do it also but i can't now...

[NGEE]

Not having the hiccup issue, but definitely traction control-like vibration at hard acceleration (even with traction control turned off). Today I tried the 20-mile 4k rpm ride (60 in 3rd). Maybe it's the power of suggestion, but it definitely seems to accelerate smoother now.

[pepsih]

Ok will try it on my way back home tomorrow.
I don't have the hipccup issue as well just hesitation under hard acceleration

update: after driving like 20 miles at 4k rpms still have the issue

[AWD Addict]

This has to be partially related to the stuttering idle issue. Seems like a lot of posts over the past 10 pages are similar, and specifically noting the idle issue.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=509274

[jeffro535]

Mine's had most of these symptoms at one time or another, but only would ever trip some general misfire codes. Thinking there was one thing that was the root cause of the rough idle/massive misfires on cold start and stumbling/surging acceleration, it was some combination of:
1:Bad injectors
2:Replacement injectors weren't cal'd correctly (primary cause of the stumble)
3:Both turbos had bad wastegate bushings (no rattle,wtf?)
4: Possibly bad HPFP's (they went through 3 plus a LPFP, none really had an effect)
5: Clogged Vanos solenoids (cured the cold start and idle issues)
6: Spark plugs-didn't really make a difference in my case
7: New software
All that and enough data transferred between Atlanta and Munich to choke the internet. Finally after all that, it runs pretty damn good.

[Johnnyj525]

I had these symptoms. I did a walnut blast and haven't had problems since. Highly recommend it.

[Devas]

My car would almost feel like throttle closure at exactly 3000RPM in 1st and 2nd gear, but not in WOT. I tried the 4K run for 20mins, after reading this thread, and it removed it 100%!!! But 2-3 days later the problem feels like its sneaking back in.

I did the 4K run once again, and the problem went away, but it repeated itself after 2-3 days again!!! Anyone have any idea what is going on?

[jgalon04]

I'm going to try this home method soon as well. I've got the e60, but experience the same exact problem.

What's interesting for me is that I experience it only when I have the Cobb installed. Stock it runs fine at WOT in higher gears. Second I put in my Cobb it starts hiccuping at higher speeds under hard and WOT acceleration.

Will post results. This is the first thread that has given me hope. I've done all my plugs, coils. Left the injectors for a spring project, but if this cleans her up I'll be extremely pleased.

[WethVento]

Have same problem, 2010 e60 535xi 6mt with 73k ... Just got the car about three months ago. When it was still early spring n pretty cold in CT, i could not feel anything but recently it started happening. So i did the walnut blasting, it was pretty bad and it seemed like it helped a bit but then came back and got worse :/, replaced spark plus with oem bosch ones and still same thing, got one new coil, and replacing old ones one by one thinking maybe i have a bad coil somewhere but what if i have more than one bad coils ?!?? No check engine light as well. Will try the oven cleaning with a little hope it will help, but do have some hope that Alex's seafoam method will help.

Alex, which seafoam product did u use ?? I remember seeing some at autozone just not sure if it matters and if theres a specific one for our cars ....

Dont think anyone will reply since this is an old thread ... Bit keeping my fingers crossed ....


Anyone with a solid solution??

Thanks

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by WethVento

Have same problem, 2010 e60 535xi 6mt with 73k ... Just got the car about three months ago. When it was still early spring n pretty cold in CT, i could not feel anything but recently it started happening. So i did the walnut blasting, it was pretty bad and it seemed like it helped a bit but then came back and got worse :/, replaced spark plus with oem bosch ones and still same thing, got one new coil, and replacing old ones one by one thinking maybe i have a bad coil somewhere but what if i have more than one bad coils ?!?? No check engine light as well. Will try the oven cleaning with a little hope it will help, but do have some hope that Alex's seafoam method will help.

Alex, which seafoam product did u use ?? I remember seeing some at autozone just not sure if it matters and if theres a specific one for our cars ....

Dont think anyone will reply since this is an old thread ... Bit keeping my fingers crossed ....


Anyone with a solid solution??

Thanks

I think you need to read codes - I have cyl 1 misfiring with injector plausibility code, pretty sure it replacing injector will resolve, stay tuned

[tampaturbom3]

resurrecting an old thread... but it's what came up on my search for the issue that I'm having: pulsating feeling under hard acceleration. It seems not to do it when I accelerate from a standstill, but it comes in very frequently if I'm already in a higher gear (3-5) and accelerate. Within about 12k miles I've put new plugs, new coils, walnut blast, Fuel it stage 2 pump. My boost is solid and strong (so I don't think it's a boost leak)... so I'm thinking it's probably one of 3 things:
1. injectors
2. valve cover leaking into the spark plug well and causing a misfire (I see oil in
the hole when I change the plugs and assume it could cause a misfire)
3. boost solenoids

I'm open to other suggestions or any info on the above (how to test or know if one of these things could be the issue). it's very frustrating and I don't want to start chasing the problem with $$ only to be wrong on my guesses.

[The_janitor]

I had this problem, new coils and plugs fixed it. Check your chargepipe and other stuff for leaks, when the cpu is underhard boost and recalculating changes because of a leak or misfires it causes hiccups.

[dchernia]

So had the same problem, called a trusted Mechanic he told me it is a coil, one coil later norobme.

First, a little background... after a couple months of deliberation I bought a 2007 certified pre-owned 335i 6MT in mid July with 26,500 miles. Four miles (yes, four miles) away from the dealer in my new car, I experienced the dreaded HPFP failure. Upsetting yes, but good to get the pump replacement out of the way before I needed the car to get to work or something like that.

Since then, the car has been fantastic. I love every minute behind the wheel. However, I have begun to experience this very strange jerking feeling under hard acceleration. It only seems to happen in higher gears at lower speeds (low-ish RPM). For example, on the highway around 30-40mph in 4th gear mash the throttle and as the RPMs rise past 3-4k there are tiny hiccups in the power delivery that cause a jerking sensation. It doesn't always at the same RPM, and is in no way consistant. I know that it is not a traction problem, because it only really happens at higher speeds.

I took the car to the dealer recently for the 30,000 mile service and mentioned it to the service guy. He said they would drive the car and attempt to reproduce the problem. When I returned the next day to pick up the car, he said they couldn't find the issue. I was happy at first, but quickly crushed to feel the exact same jerking upon leaving the dealership.

I'm probably going to return to the dealer sometime soon and go out for a ride with the mechanic to show him the issue. My completely uneducated guess would be that it something to do with the injectors or the spark plugs maybe? It doesn't feel like a transmission issue.. Any ideas of what the problem is or what I should do would be much appreciated. Thanks![/QUOTE]

[tampaturbom3]

I haven't taken the time to solve mine... so I can accelerate from a stop to 100+ with no issues (pulls super hard), but if I'm already going a decent speed (say 40mph) cruising and then nail it.... I get the jerking...

so please update us if you get yours figured out. I'm thinking to change my plugs again soon now that they have over 10k miles on them. my coils only have about 3-4k miles on them and my walnut blast was only about 10k miles ago. I have the fuel-it stage 2 pump. I still have original injectors and HPFP.

[Turkish Mafia]

Anyone have a solution to this?

I have had this problem ever since using Cobb and PTF tuning. No one can seem to figure the issue out. I have new turbos, walnut-blasted, new plugs, new coils, new index-12 injectors. This problem is driving me insane.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Turkish Mafia

Anyone have a solution to this?

I have had this problem ever since using Cobb and PTF tuning. No one can seem to figure the issue out. I have new turbos, walnut-blasted, new plugs, new coils, new index-12 injectors. This problem is driving me insane.

Dzenno should be able to figure that out.

[Alex D]

So I think I solved this issue that I had since I Dinan S2 tuned the car in late 2010. I had always noted that this pulsating only happened when the ambient temps went over 75F. Under 70F and especially in teh winter this didn't happen so it was temp related. I finally broke down and bought a Mishimoto FMIC and put it in. Super easy install. Took an hour with lots of time used to clean out the cooler pack out front.

Changes I noted:
- The pulsating/jerking sensation is gone, gone, gone!
- The oil temps are definitly between 10F and 20F cooler than before. This is a direct result from the Mishimoto FMIC, no doubt.
- The throttle tip in and response to the gas pedal in the first 20% of the pedal range is slightly softer
- Once on boost the car pulls noticeably (!) harder, more consistent and there seems to be is more hp throughout the range (once on boost and with no pulsating)
- I get about .5 to.7 mpg less on average and the exhaust tips seem to blacken from soot a little sooner and more

Along with the Dinan S2 flash this was the best investment in my 335i and I should have done it much earlier!

[Exotic Hadron]

That's a pretty old thread to bump it, but it helped a lot in blind diagnostic of my I6 3.0L N52K in X1 25i, so I decided that I chime in and add my 2 cents to the hiccup/shudder story on acceleration with inline-six engines.

Symptoms

The car shudders/jerks under 100% throttle load when surpassing the 2000 rpm boundary within the 1700-2100 rpm range.

Remedy

Replacement of all 6 spark plugs and 2 ignition coils. As it gets from this thread, in must cases cylinders 4,5,6 are the culprit in inline 6-cylinder. In my case these are at least 4th and 5th cylinders. At least these are where diagnostic reveals misfiring codes in my case.

History

All of a sudden I started experiencing strong shudders when driving uphill or when accelerating from the regular quiet driving. When you drive gently and slightly depress the pedal allowing the tranny to pick up speed it all feels smooth, it feels no hesitation, jerking whatsoever. Transmission shifts as usual and everything feels good. Even more, if you accelerate and floor the gas pedal from stationary, driving is smooth.

However, should you depress the gas pedal further whilst driving, she car shudders as if traction control kicks in. However, DTC doesn't get involved here since there's no indication of ESP and wheel contact is okay.

So you drive at 1500 rpm, then, if you tap the pedal to accelerate a bit, the car hesitates when passing the 2000 revolutions mark. It's 100% reproduced if you drive uphill, then if you depress the pedal (you don't have to floor it, slightly depressing the pedal is enough) the car kicks-in multiple times. That's on automatic transmission. Feels the same as if you were driving manual transmission on 4th gear when speeds as too low for that gear. And it also pretty much close to when xDrive clutch kicks-in when you use the kick-down mode.


Initially I thought the hiccups were caused by my jerky driving manner. So I reset transmission memory by using the 25 s trick:
1) Insert the keyfob.
2) Do not push the break pedal.
3) Push the Start button once and wait until electronics is on (that is until self-test is done).
4) Press the gas pedal all the way down and keep it pressed for 25 seconds (do NOT press the break pedal).
5) Press the break and hit the Start button again.

So I've reset the transmission, transmission shifts got more fluid. However, hiccups remained the same and especially hard when driving uphill.

On the second day I was nearly shocked by having a strong shudder of the car when I changing the line. I floored gas and... instead of experiencing the standard jump, the beemer shuddered strongly and the revolutions jumped to 7K as if I were using S mode, that was LOUD. The car continued to shake. These weren't those couple of strong bumps you were getting when passing the 2000 boundary.

The engine was vibrating like if it were a diesel Volga. (None of you have ever driven it but you can youtube for it).

Bummers, check engine appeared in the cluster. Stop and starting again helped, Check Engine sign disappeared, engine stopped shaking.

I've managed to successfully drive to my work. However, when I started the car next time (from the cold state), the engine started to shudder as if it wasn't a beemer but rather a Vladimirec (I believe you had them imported in the US back in days). Again NO indication of fault whatsoever on the instrument cluster. I felt sorry for the car. It shuddered so hard! I've drive for like half a mile until Check Engine icon appeared.

Current investigation by the dealer showed cylinders 4 and 5 were misfiring. Hopefuly, replacing injector coil and sparks will solve the problem.

Conclusion

If your car with inline-six (no matter N54, N55, or N52) started to experience hiccups when accelerating from low revs between the 1700-2100 rpm, go first check the coils and plugs.

Keeping my fingers crossed...

Woes

How come the car that requires you to register every tiny bit of an action you do with it in the main ECU, feels comfortable with such shuddering that result in broken injection coils? I mean, if the car experiences sensations, there MUST be some indication of ignition issues. However, there appears no visual indication of a fault up until it's too late. I hope there isn't so with G series.

[Flyboy161]

The problem"Shuddering"
My daughter texts me Friday morning, that her car is shuddering, idles rough, and doesn't like the hills.
She drives about 80 miles per day in an '11 328i. I meet her at school at lunch, plug in my Carly adapter and she starts the car. Rough idle for sure. Connect the Carly app and run a diagnostic.
Fault displayed is misfire cylinder 3. There is 78,000 miles on the odometer. I tell her she's ok to drive home and I'll fix it that night.
At home diagnostic
So, I get home about 6:30pm. Disassembled the coverings on the motor to expose the coils. Unplugged cylinder 2 and 3 and swapped coils between 2 and 3. Reconnected the wiring and ran another Carly diagnostic. Problem moved to cylinder 2. Okay, bad coil, but the plugs do have 78,000 miles on them.
8pm trip to Auto Parts Store
Picked up a new set of 6 Dura-Crap coils and a set of Bosch plugs. Swing by Taco Smell and grab dinner.
The conclusion (hurray)
Ate my Chaloopers and taco. Replaced all the plugs and coils. Reassembled the plastic coverings and ran another Carly diagnostic. Problem gone after clearing the fault code. So, really 2 diagnostics, first to read the fault and the second to verify it stayed gone. Closed the hood at 10:30pm

First time doing this on a BMW. I'd like to give a special shout out to the engineers who designed this car for the cool little holes they put in the rear shroud as I forgot to put on the engine head cover before assembling the cabin air filter covering. These two are specifically for the two aft screws on the head cover. The Allen wrench fits right down through the hole and engages the hex cap screws perfectly. The whole job was a breeze!
Second recommendation for Carly. What a powerful little diagnostic tool!

[Exotic Hadron]

Originally Posted by Flyboy161

The problem"Shuddering"
She drives about 80 miles per day in an '11 328i. I meet her at school at lunch, plug in my Carly adapter and she starts the car. Rough idle for sure. Connect the Carly app and run a diagnostic.

Hi, are they at Carly using a proprietary ELM327 adapter?

This one looks a generic Chinese OBD-II Bluetooth adapter.



And this one is a generic OBD-II Wi-Fi adapter (and hence it's for iOS as there's no way to connect through Bluetooth)



Hats off to Carly. From what you've said and from what's posted on their site, they are using common OBD-II adapters but their Android and iOS software does all the magic. Uhm, es klingt super! ;-) Possibly they are also using a custom firmware in the adapters?

I've used this app from Windows Store with a cheap Chinese ELM327 adapter

As expected, the app didn't reveal any misfiring codes. Possibly INPA would do the trick but that's an overshoot if you Carly is capable to get that info from the OBD-II protocol.

[Flyboy161]

Any elm327 adapter will do diagnostic functions, most likely. But to do coding, battery registration, you need their adapter. It is worth it, trust me.

And after reading again your post, I see you confirmed that the knockoff adapter and another app is only partially functional. I am not knocking INPA, if you are proficient with it, then by all means use it, I do. But for on the road and away from battery chargers, and even at home for speed and ease...Carly with their generation 2 adapter is the way to go.

хороший день для тебя

[3.1L Z]

Btw. There is a free easy software download for battery registration and a few other features. U just donate like 5 or 20 bucks to the guy. Can't remember the name but it's on my laptop. If interested let me know.