[scalbert]

Originally Posted by O-cha

More info please!

Unfortunately, more will have to take place tomorrow. Sorry...

I have an early morning plant start up to monitor.

[Terry335]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Good to know, so voltage regulates the solenoids/wastegates and 12v gets you closed wastegates (max boost) and 0v gets you open wastegates (minimum boost)? Are those the white and grey/white wires? Can you think of any easy way short of connecting my multimeter with a big long wire to measure the voltage being output? I would be really interested in finding out if 12v was being sent to the solenoids even after my car starts hitting 20psi. because thats what seems like is happening.

I wonder if the procede "accidentally" sent that the car was under low boost making the ECU read low boost and full throttle if the ECU would then send voltage to close the wastegates resulting in overboost.

It's the other way around on the solenoids, 12v is fully open (no boost), 0v is fully closed (max boost). You can tap in pin 7 or 14 to measure voltage, but I suspect the problem is a logical one between the ECU and your piggyback.

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by Tuned335i

That's what we were thinking...although the 20psi that some gauges are reading is really strange.



No. Everyone is measuring boost in the intercooler tube. Unless someone has drilled and tapped the intake manifold itself, everyone's boost gauges are attached to the vacuum lines coming off the diverter valves which is between the intercooler and the throttle plate. This is not measuring the boost inside the intake manifold itself, but the pressure ahead of the throttle plate. It's not the same thing.

If you don't buy this explanation, just review the diagram in the BMW documentation.

Just finishing catching up with this thread and I can't believe no one corrected this. The line everyone taps by the diverter valves IS connected to the manifold. The diverter valve throughput is connected to the "intercooler tube" but the vaccum portion of the diverter valve IS connected to the manifold itself. Otherwise the diverter valve would be pretty useless yea?

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

Another cause of boost spiking would be not installing the new green loom included with the v2 upgrade kit (it has a red strip on it). Using the original green loom will cause sustained 18-20psi boost pressures.

Just an FYI...

-shiv

Sounds very familiar, except for the part where I have the green loom installed.

[DrDomer]

Originally Posted by Terry335

It's the other way around on the solenoids, 12v is fully open (no boost), 0v is fully closed (max boost). You can tap in pin 7 or 14 to measure voltage, but I suspect the problem is a logical one between the ECU and your piggyback.

So... full throttle at 2K RPM you have OV to the solenoids and a closed wastegate?

[Orb]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

Pretty sure it's a pressure delta because i have reproduced it at very low absolute boost pressures but with electronically augmenting the spike signal.

shiv

It would be interesting to see what the pressure sensor is reading upstream of the throttle body. I assuming the proceed controls the waste gates based on T-map pressure sensor and other inputs but not the upstream pressure sensor? I’m a bit curious about this and there is not enough info to even guess.

There really is on thing that I can see that would cause a differential pressure at WOT you just got to consider possible conditions, geometry and the relationship with pressure and velocity.


Orb

[Terry335]

Originally Posted by DrDomer

So... full throttle at 2K RPM you have OV to the solenoids and a closed wastegate?

Yes, assuming you have vacuum in the reservoir. It never actually goes to 0v for some reason, seems to do around 1/2 volt when trying to build boost.

[Terry335]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Just finishing catching up with this thread and I can't believe no one corrected this. The line everyone taps by the diverter valves IS connected to the manifold. The diverter valve throughput is connected to the "intercooler tube" but the vaccum portion of the diverter valve IS connected to the manifold itself. Otherwise the diverter valve would be pretty useless yea?
.

+1. Vacuum from the manifold opens those valves, and boost holds them closed, just like any other diaphragm based bypass/surge valve, as far as I know.

[e.n335]

Hi Shiv,

You got email, the feedback about the 1st of 2 testing days ( each day some few hours ).

@all: Today's feedback is very positive. I did testing using my electronic boost gauge and will perform datalogging and some more spirited driving on the German autobahn by tomorrow. Overboost is disabled right now, unexpected boost spikes are gone. In general, boost is there where it should be. If the results tomorrow will be indentical with todays results, the map works great.

- Eugen

[stefano7171]

Originally Posted by e.n335

Hi Shiv,

You got email, the feedback about the 1st of 2 testing days ( each day some few hours ).

@all: Today's feedback is very positive. I did testing using my electronic boost gauge and will perform datalogging and some more spirited driving on the German autobahn by tomorrow. Overboost is disabled right now, unexpected boost spikes are gone. In general, boost is there where it should be. If the results tomorrow will be indentical with todays results, the map works great.

- Eugen

Thanks for the update!
I reckon your winter tyres set up will stop you from checking the functionality of the speed limit defeat, correct?
The questions now are (even if probably is early for anybody to be able to provide an answer):
1) if the spikes were related to the overboost feature, what is the HP loss without it and,
2) would the decision to keep the overboost on all the time endanger the engine?

[e.n335]

Originally Posted by stefano7171

Thanks for the update!
I reckon your winter tyres set up will stop you from checking the functionality of the speed limit defeat, correct?
The questions now are (even if probably is early for anybody to be able to provide an answer):
1) if the spikes were related to the overboost feature, what is the HP loss without it and,
2) would the decision to keep the overboost on all the time endanger the engine?

Hi Stefano,

I use V-rated winter tyres and have a spare tyre in the trunk. So 240 km/h is max. speed.

1) There is no HP loss for unexpected boost spikes, they just should not occur.
2) Overboost on means 1-2 psi more for a very short time. Shiv implemeted 1-2 seconds, AFAIK. A rule of thumb says 1 psi = 10 hp. Again, for 1-2 seconds.

Ciao,
Eugen

[OpenFlash]

Hi Guys,
The overboost feature doesn't influence power on the dyno due to single gear, from-low-rpm testing procedure. The map I sent scalbert and eugen had several changes to it (other than the disabling of the overboost feature). With the PROcede, it's gotten to the point of us having control over just about every combustion-related parameter. Control over boost is also fully realized. This means control of initial duty cycle, the actual feedback logic, variable boost target, etc,. The days of just attenuating the T-Map sensor and letting the factory ECU do the rest are far gone.

If testing results from scalbert and eugen are good, we'll go ahead and release the v2.0.2 map and see people's reaction to it. It's quite smooth and packs a good top-end whallop. It can also be adjusted up and down to account for variations in octane and driver preference.

-Shiv

[Sniz]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

Hi Guys,
The overboost feature doesn't influence power on the dyno due to single gear, from-low-rpm testing procedure. The map I sent scalbert and eugen had several changes to it (other than the disabling of the overboost feature). With the PROcede, it's gotten to the point of us having control over just about every combustion-related parameter. Control over boost is also fully realized. This means control of initial duty cycle, the actual feedback logic, variable boost target, etc,. The days of just attenuating the T-Map sensor and letting the factory ECU do the rest are far gone.

If testing results from scalbert and eugen are good, we'll go ahead and release the v2.0.2 map and see people's reaction to it. It's quite smooth and packs a good top-end whallop. It can also be adjusted up and down to account for variations in octane and driver preference.

-Shiv

Sounds good

If you can, please post somewhere what boost settings can be used w/ specific octanes. I hope that would end any other users upping the boost while putting in 89 octane or the like.......and then coming on here and :sad0147: due to limp modes.




and please get me my V2!

[zenmaster]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

It can also be adjusted up and down to account for variations in octane and driver preference.

There's a 100 octane pump up the road from me. Using v2.0.2, what's the lowest octane required to make the highest power? Thanks.

[e.n335]

Top boost did not change much, if at all. So I expect still 96 octane AKI, as discussed more than once .

[zenmaster]

Originally Posted by e.n335

Top boost did not change much, if at all. So I expect still 96 octane AKI, as discussed more than once .

Then thanks for the repeated info. That works out to be about $25 extra for a full tank of 96 octane.

[e.n335]

Guys, when you will probably update to v2.0.2 very soon, give your ECU the possibility to reset and learn from scratch. In the past we ( all 335i owners ) had some cases of engine stutter or hiccups, which disappeared after resetting the ECU. This is done by removing the black battery wire for 1 hour and forces the ECU to start learning. Don't beat your car immediately after the reset, the adaption lasts 1-2 days. The steptronic will learn as well. I don't want to be a wiseass , I want you to enjoy v2.0.2 without issues.

- Eugen

[e.n335]

Originally Posted by zenmaster

Then thanks for the repeated info. That works out to be about $25 extra for a full tank of 96 octane.

Nice, when you go to the track

[Kbueno]

Originally Posted by e.n335

Guys, when you will probably update to v2.0.2 very soon, give your ECU the possibility to reset and learn from scratch. In the past we ( all 335i owners ) had some cases of engine stutter or hiccups, which disappeared after resetting the ECU. This is done by removing the black battery wire for 1 hour and forces the ECU to start learning. Don't beat your car immediately after the reset, the adaption lasts 1-2 days. The steptronic will learn as well. I don't want to be a wiseass , I want you to enjoy v2.0.2 without issues.

- Eugen

-Appreciate the advice, the settings you provided for v2.01 are working great. Looking forward to v2.02 so I can raise back up to shiv's standard settings. Keep us updated on the progress....good or bad.

[e.n335]

Originally Posted by 335lvr

-Appreciate the advice, the settings you provided for v2.01 are working great. Looking forward to v2.02 so I can raise back up to shiv's standard settings. Keep us updated on the progress....good or bad.

Thank you. Progress is good. Nothing will be wrong to keep Shiv's v2.0.2 default settings for a while

- Eugen

[stefano7171]

Originally Posted by e.n335

Hi Stefano,

I use V-rated winter tyres and have a spare tyre in the trunk. So 240 km/h is max. speed.

1) There is no HP loss for unexpected boost spikes, they just should not occur.
2) Overboost on means 1-2 psi more for a very short time. Shiv implemeted 1-2 seconds, AFAIK. A rule of thumb says 1 psi = 10 hp. Again, for 1-2 seconds.

Ciao,
Eugen

Thanks!

[DrDomer]

V2 going in Saturday again after appt for service. Hope the new map is out... good news.

[CarveOut]

Originally Posted by e.n335

I use V-rated winter tyres and have a spare tyre in the trunk. So 240 km/h is max. speed.

When I get V2 in January I will test the VMax for you guys. I am gonna have Z-rated tyres on my e93. I wonder how one could possibly choose to drive Vs with such a setup...