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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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F30 Performance brakes in E92 335i
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02-14-2016, 02:04 PM | #309 | |
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1206689 |
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02-17-2016, 01:32 PM | #310 |
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Feuer....
My instal has gone horribly wrong today To recap the garage (not a BMW dealer) was fitting F3x Brembo 4 pot fronts w/ 370mm disc and stock E9x Sliding Caliper with 330mm disc. The garage tells me that install went smoothly with no hiccups, they also got the F3x backing plates on without issue. When the brakes were bled aparantly there was a solid stream of fluid from the fronts, but the mechanic said that 'not as much as he'd like' was coming through the rears. Also on the initial test drive the mechanic says the pedal did not feel as good as he would expect. The car was taken back in, and bled again. No air bubbles were present, but the pedal feel got worse! They have tried to sort the pedal out this afternoon and the system has now been bled a total of 5 times! However, the pedal still hasn't come back, it aparantly just sinks to the floor when it's pressed They wouldn't allow me to collect the car, as obviously it's dangerous at present. I've booked it into BMW tomorrow for a proper brake bleed using their software and the garage I have used for the instal are taking the car over there for me first thing in the morning..... Any suggestions as to what's gone wrong? Ideas from the garage fitting the brakes are: 1. air in master cylinder / abs pump 2. master cylinder has died during bleeding process (they have said this can happen) and will need replacement 3. M3 master is required Any help at all would be appreciated!! |
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02-17-2016, 01:54 PM | #311 | |
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-is the car MT or AT ? Could be air trapped in lines from brake cylinder to clutch cylinder if car is MT. 2. master cylinder has died during bleeding process (they have said this can happen) and will need replacement -highly unlikely and if so they should replace it for free because they demanded it during improper bleed. Best way to bleed these brakes (regardless of f30 calipers or not) is to use pressure bleeder and INPA to activate the ABS pump, caliper by baliper. 3. M3 master is required -absolutely not. There are plenty of e9x with f30 front calipers and non M brake cylinder with perfectly functioning brakes and good brake pedal. |
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02-17-2016, 02:29 PM | #312 |
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Yeh the cars a manual.
I will mention that suggestion to BMW tomorrow, is it an easy fix? I'm gutted, as I've been looking forward to the instal for weeks!!! |
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02-17-2016, 05:28 PM | #313 |
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Also, forgot to ask...
If (and I hope this is not the case!) the master in broken..... its obviously going to have to be replaced. So, if I have to replace it. is it worth fitting the M3 master with my set up? Or would that then lead to the opposite effect, and create a pedal that would be too firm with almost on/off modulation? |
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02-17-2016, 06:44 PM | #314 | |
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02-18-2016, 11:29 AM | #315 |
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Update, if anyone is interested....
BMW have had their 'master tech' on my car today. They found twisted brake lines, and the rear single piston calipers were fitted on the wrong sides of the car. They first had to rectify the errors made from installation and once that was done they power bled the system whilst purging the DSC / ABS units and now I have a great pedal feel. Total nightmare, and the original garage have agreed to cover BMW's labour for todays work! Is there a 'bedding in' procedure for these pads / discs? |
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02-18-2016, 03:07 PM | #317 |
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Certainly!
I was nearly at the point of giving up, but as I say all sorted now! Initial impressions are that this set up is excellent compared to the kit I've just removed (135i / BMW Performance 6pots / 2pots) |
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02-18-2016, 04:01 PM | #318 |
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02-18-2016, 04:02 PM | #319 |
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02-18-2016, 05:04 PM | #320 | |
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They actually had no issues, as they were all BMW parts. On a side note, there seems to be some fluid leakage from the bleed nipples on the front calipers - is this normal after a brake bleed? I have cleaned it all off, and I will keep an eye on it tomorrow - but if it happens again I will have to give the dealers a call. |
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02-18-2016, 06:57 PM | #321 | |
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Honestly, I have seen drops run off that have been trapped into rubber cap and the nipple itself but leakage should not be present. Try to retighten the nipples but do not be over zealous. |
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02-19-2016, 11:55 AM | #322 |
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As a friendly reminder, which you may already know, brake fluid is corrosive and will eat through your paintwork (rims, caliper, etc.) if left on for too long. I'd keep an eye on this leakage, as vigilant as possible.
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02-19-2016, 12:17 PM | #323 |
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True, unless is DOT 5 which is silicon based and pretty much harmless to paint and is very low corrosive thus used on antiques cars. However, DOT 5 is not good for everyday applications and performance oriented cars.
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02-19-2016, 03:09 PM | #324 |
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I have kept an eye, and it seems to have stopped leaking. There was a tiny amount around the dust cap tonight, but yesterday it was dribbled down the caliper itself.
Maybe some residue from inside the cap / bleed nipple itself? I have jet washed the rims / brakes to remove any fluid, as I know this can damage paint if left! I will keep an eye over the next week or so, and if it still seeps out, I will take it back to BMW for them to tighten the nipple! |
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02-19-2016, 11:28 PM | #326 |
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Where are you guys buying the parts for this swap? Wrecked cars or new stuff?
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02-20-2016, 08:24 AM | #327 |
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02-20-2016, 08:28 AM | #328 |
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02-20-2016, 10:44 AM | #330 |
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Cast iron would be more prone to breaking off after being exposed to heat and mill down compared to the aluminum on the calipers in addition to not able to install stock brake calipers after you mill them down. Additionally, you will have to remove the knuckle to mill it down nice and even. If one is to do all of that than is better to just mill new hubs so you will not have to mill neither the knuckle nor the caliper.
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