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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Robbing the e92 M3 for suspension parts



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      08-03-2011, 07:43 AM   #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaanBMW View Post
No, I wasn't trying to re-use the bushings, but the end links. I have confirmed that they are indeed interchangeable, so now I can re-use the existing ones w/ the M3 bars.

I'm not sure why an alignment is due, the bars should NOT change the angles under normal driving, or ?
The only reason I would say do the alignment is because my rear end hasn't had an alignment in a while, and I am doing all of this to maximize my traction and handling. I might as well spend another $150 to ensure that all the hard work and money spent this far is properly setup. It is probably optional as you mentioned.
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      11-02-2011, 05:45 AM   #332
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Great Thread! So HP have the cheapest price on parts? ))
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      01-18-2012, 12:04 AM   #333
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wow!!!...great thread!!!....so tired after reading all this!...
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      01-18-2012, 07:30 AM   #334
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Originally Posted by AntonioAP View Post
Great Thread! So HP have the cheapest price on parts? ))
This is the best thread for sure....

HP for some parts, Tischler for other parts.
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      02-24-2012, 09:19 AM   #335
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I have just done this conversion on my 335i and I noticed two things:
1. the ride is a lot harsher than before and
2. the car sits higher at the back. is this normal?
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      02-24-2012, 10:02 AM   #336
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Originally Posted by cedchung View Post
I have just done this conversion on my 335i and I noticed two things:
1. the ride is a lot harsher than before and
2. the car sits higher at the back. is this normal?
Hi please elaborate on exactly what you did.... all parts.
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      02-24-2012, 11:04 AM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cedchung View Post
I have just done this conversion on my 335i and I noticed two things:
1. the ride is a lot harsher than before and
2. the car sits higher at the back. is this normal?
Did you preload the suspension before you tightened the arms?
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      02-27-2012, 06:17 AM   #338
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Thanks for the replies.

I had the front tension arms and wishbones changed, rear bushings and both anti roll bars.

I did not do the work myself. What exactly is preloading the suspension?

*EDIT* The car is higher only on the left side. The right side remained unchanged.

Last edited by cedchung; 02-27-2012 at 06:46 AM..
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      02-27-2012, 12:01 PM   #339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cedchung View Post
Thanks for the replies.

I had the front tension arms and wishbones changed, rear bushings and both anti roll bars.

I did not do the work myself. What exactly is preloading the suspension?

*EDIT* The car is higher only on the left side. The right side remained unchanged.
that isn't right... take it back and get them to fix it....
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      02-27-2012, 12:50 PM   #340
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Preloading the suspension means that you need to have the the suspension in the same position as if the car were on the ground.
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      02-27-2012, 05:40 PM   #341
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For the M3 lowering control arms and tension rods do they both affect the alignment or is it only one of these?

Basically I am asking can I install the lower controls arms or the Tension rods and then drive it to the shop where it will be aligned and have them do the remainder and alignment as well.

Trying to save myself on labor.

Edit: Looks like the tension rods don't change things much. So just to double check, the tension rods can be installed without replacing the lower control arms? That way I can save on labor and still get the car to a shop to finish up the job and align the thing?

Last edited by acdHQK713K; 02-27-2012 at 06:16 PM..
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      02-27-2012, 06:17 PM   #342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangorang View Post
For the M3 lowering control arms and tension rods do they both affect the alignment or is it only one of these?

Basically I am asking can I install the lower controls arms or the Tension rods and then drive it to the shop where it will be aligned and have them do the remainder and alignment as well.

Trying to save myself on labor.
Yes you can. The M3 Wishbones change the camber, but that is fixed. The tension rod are fixed too.... not too much risk here as long as you eye ball it ok. Don't drive too far.... and tell them to align to M3 Specs
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      02-27-2012, 06:27 PM   #343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFish View Post
Yes you can. The M3 Wishbones change the camber, but that is fixed. The tension rod are fixed too.... not too much risk here as long as you eye ball it ok. Don't drive too far.... and tell them to align to M3 Specs
Solid thanks. I will pop those on and then let the shop do the lower control arms to finish the work off.

2 hours in labor for the tension rods seemed excessive to me.
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      02-27-2012, 07:38 PM   #344
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I am in the process of picking up a E92 M3 front sway bar. Is there a great benefit to just putting the front sway bar on (will I notice a difference)? Or should I wait until I get the rear sway bar and the front strut bar, and do the install at the same time?

Thanks!!
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      02-27-2012, 07:51 PM   #345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzzammil15 View Post
I am in the process of picking up a E92 M3 front sway bar. Is there a great benefit to just putting the front sway bar on (will I notice a difference)? Or should I wait until I get the rear sway bar and the front strut bar, and do the install at the same time?

Thanks!!
The M3 bar is pretty big.... let me tell you what my mod path was.

I did Dinan Stage 3, (Dinan camber plates, springs, shocks, M3 front arms (2)) - it is recommended that you do NOT do the rear bar UNTIL you have an LSD installed. This is due to the fact that you might loose traction in the rear. Search some threads on this.

This is what I followed anyway, I did the rear as a separate stage - rear DINAN bar (to match my front), rear subframe bushings, my Wavetrac LSD, rear M3 control arms- upper and lower - and then I added the rear toe arms.

Search some threads on this.
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      02-27-2012, 11:07 PM   #346
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Got the tension struts on in 45 mins.

Very easy. Car feels driveable. I will let the alignment shop do the rest later this week. A ratcheting 21mm wrench sped up the process.

Torx T40 was needed to keep the stud from spinning on the tension rod to steering knuckle connection.
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      02-28-2012, 09:27 AM   #347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
Preloading the suspension means that you need to have the the suspension in the same position as if the car were on the ground.
In that case no, the suspension was definitely not preloaded. Everything was tightened while the car was on the lift.
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      02-28-2012, 10:13 AM   #348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90pilot View Post
Preloading the suspension means that you need to have the the suspension in the same position as if the car were on the ground.
You don't have have any preload on any of the rubber bushing control arm ends. Vehicle must sit on its own weight before securing the suspension control arm bolts.
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      05-16-2012, 05:36 AM   #349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
You don't have have any preload on any of the rubber bushing control arm ends. Vehicle must sit on its own weight before securing the suspension control arm bolts.
I was told that there is nothing to preload on the E92.

My car is still sitting higher on the left. I know it is normal for it to be up to 10mm higher but I measure both sides and I am getting a 15mm difference at the rear!

What could be causing this? Can the rear anti roll bar be off centered?
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      12-07-2012, 02:59 PM   #350
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I hate how the suspension is so sloppy. There is just way too much travel compared to my E92 M3.

Good thread
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      12-08-2012, 04:17 AM   #351
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Whoever is giving your information is dead wrong. Of course, E9X suspension's need to be preload.
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      02-06-2013, 11:03 PM   #352
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So I've read through this thread multiple times (awesome info), and I think I have the concept correct but want to confirm I'm looking at this the right way.

The front end is pretty cut and dry to me. Replace all four links and align, done. (well, other than whether I need to also buy the new hardware too or if existing can be reused).

The rear subframe bushings are the same- I know what I need.

But where I'm unsure if with the multilink setup in the rear, partly because some of the terminology seems inconsistent across vendors. This is what I *think* I need to get 90% of the slop out, while not replacing arms that already have decent bushings, or just don't make that much of a difference as the others:
-rear guide rod 3322283547
-rear upper link 33322283545

But, do I also need:
-rear upper control arm link? 33322283549
-rear camber arm link 33322283885 (I think no to this one unless I'm significantly lowered on coils, right?)

Thanks for the informed insight.
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